earlSpilner
Well-Known Member
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This weekend I finished my Manual transmission cooler on my base model GT350. My install builds on the work of SVTDSM as per this (http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49659) thread. I would highly recommend anyone wanting to do this to check out that thread.
For those wanting to see what a complete factory retrofit looks like (replacing the transmission at al. ) see this thread by Hack : http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79125
The focus of my build was for someone (like me) who doesn't have a lift or a fully equipped garage.
My build does not involve drilling any extra holes in the car and is reversible.
My build was done in my very tiny garage with basic tools.
My build took a full weekend to build (friday night to Sunday afternoon). Note that the vast majority of that time was figuring out where the brackets would fit and then making them.
So first things first. The parts list:
Air duct: FR3Z8310F (ford part number)
Cooler: 70266 B&M super cooler* (10"x11.5") (from local parts store)
*one could also substitute in CX racing cooler below which is closer to the stock size. CX racing part: OC-608-15-NPT3_4 Overall Size (Includes Fitting Height): 9.75" x 9" x1.5" 15 row (link: https://www.cxracing.com/index.php?r...roduct_id=1031 )
Pump: MOC-17522HT
Bracket: Home Brew: 2inch by 1/4" plate steel (about 24inch long)
1"X1/8" by 17" long
misc metal for pump mount
Wiring: misc. wire and switch for pump.
Hose: 15 feet 8AN braided hose
Fitting:
4 x 1/2" to 8AN for cooler and transmission
2 x 3/8" to 8AN for pump fittings
6 x 90 degree 8AN swivel fitting (I used red horse brand from local parts store)
Bolts: misc: 3/8 & 5/16 bolts
Now to the install.
PART 1: Getting into the fender well
image1 (009) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^I assume all here can get their car safely jacked up and get the wheel off. I have the streeda jacking rails on my car which for those planning to do their own work without a lift is definitely a must have mod. BMR also make a jacking rail which i hear is also a very nice piece. So with the car jacked and the wheel off this is what you are presented with. With panel puller (fork shaped tool) or carefully with a screwdriver or vice grips pull all the pull pins out of the inner fenderwell. (Note that 2017+ cars and tech pack cars may have their shocks look different as those cars have magride.)
image2 (002) by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^When pulling out the push pins for the inner fenderwell there is one last push pin that is accessed from the transmission tunnel just behind where I am pointing.
image3 by bmalkins2, on Flickr
^Once the plastic inner fenderwell is out this is what you will be presented with. Note that the brake cooling tube has a push pin attaching it to the bumper. Once that pin is out, it just pulls out easy.
Continued in next post
For those wanting to see what a complete factory retrofit looks like (replacing the transmission at al. ) see this thread by Hack : http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79125
The focus of my build was for someone (like me) who doesn't have a lift or a fully equipped garage.
My build does not involve drilling any extra holes in the car and is reversible.
My build was done in my very tiny garage with basic tools.
My build took a full weekend to build (friday night to Sunday afternoon). Note that the vast majority of that time was figuring out where the brackets would fit and then making them.
So first things first. The parts list:
Air duct: FR3Z8310F (ford part number)
Cooler: 70266 B&M super cooler* (10"x11.5") (from local parts store)
*one could also substitute in CX racing cooler below which is closer to the stock size. CX racing part: OC-608-15-NPT3_4 Overall Size (Includes Fitting Height): 9.75" x 9" x1.5" 15 row (link: https://www.cxracing.com/index.php?r...roduct_id=1031 )
Pump: MOC-17522HT
Bracket: Home Brew: 2inch by 1/4" plate steel (about 24inch long)
1"X1/8" by 17" long
misc metal for pump mount
Wiring: misc. wire and switch for pump.
Hose: 15 feet 8AN braided hose
Fitting:
4 x 1/2" to 8AN for cooler and transmission
2 x 3/8" to 8AN for pump fittings
6 x 90 degree 8AN swivel fitting (I used red horse brand from local parts store)
Bolts: misc: 3/8 & 5/16 bolts
Now to the install.
PART 1: Getting into the fender well
^I assume all here can get their car safely jacked up and get the wheel off. I have the streeda jacking rails on my car which for those planning to do their own work without a lift is definitely a must have mod. BMR also make a jacking rail which i hear is also a very nice piece. So with the car jacked and the wheel off this is what you are presented with. With panel puller (fork shaped tool) or carefully with a screwdriver or vice grips pull all the pull pins out of the inner fenderwell. (Note that 2017+ cars and tech pack cars may have their shocks look different as those cars have magride.)
^When pulling out the push pins for the inner fenderwell there is one last push pin that is accessed from the transmission tunnel just behind where I am pointing.
^Once the plastic inner fenderwell is out this is what you will be presented with. Note that the brake cooling tube has a push pin attaching it to the bumper. Once that pin is out, it just pulls out easy.
Continued in next post
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