The Force Is Strong"R" With This One

barstowpo said:

Interesting that the rear trans mount says, "scrap if dropped."

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That isn't the mount but rather the two mass dampers bolted to the back of the transmission. They are tuned just right and if you tweak them the wrong way...

http://s772.photobucket.com/user/Tobphotobucket/media/GT350 driveline/zIMG_0526.jpg.html

Hey 50, thanks for posting the detailed build thread. I just started following it today, and its been very helpful for a noob like me to the Mustang community. Keep it up man, and the car looks good.

I assume the mass damper is fluid filled? Did you remove the front bumper cover to install the cooler or simply the pan underneath?

barstowpo said:

I assume the mass damper is fluid filled? Did you remove the front bumper cover to install the cooler or simply the pan underneath?

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I managed to get the cooler installed by only removing the passenger side wheel, passenger brake duct, opening up the fender liner half way, and loosening all the belly pan bolts. I had plenty of room and only really needed to loosen the belly pan so I could bolt on the bottom support bracket to the cooler.

Taking the pan off completely will definitely give you more room, as i had to wiggle my hand around when removing the brake duct from the front of the bumper. The brake duct needs to come off so you can run the lines and bolt on the bracket that attached to the radiator. Just depends on how much time you have to spend.

If you are debating a tow hook then that would be a good time.

50, Congrats on your progress. Hopefully the trans will bolt right up and doesn't give you a problem.

Question about the trans duct that attaches to the bumper. Does yours look like the pic below. Any chance you can take a pic of how you installed it.
I look at it and it just looks like a big piece of origami.

Thanks again for hooking us up with the lowering springs :cheers:

I have the Baldstig tow hook but I'm debating the new FPP hook. I bought an extra grill so the FPP one may make sense. I prefer it to be centered. I'm curious on the scoop too as Mike suggested I order it when I ordered my kit.

TDC said:

50, Congrats on your progress. Hopefully the trans will bolt right up and doesn't give you a problem.

Question about the trans duct that attaches to the bumper. Does yours look like the pic below. Any chance you can take a pic of how you installed it.
I look at it and it just looks like a big piece of origami.

Thanks again for hooking us up with the lowering springs :cheers:

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You are welcome, and yes mine looks the same.

barstowpo said:

I have the Baldstig tow hook but I'm debating the new FPP hook. I bought an extra grill so the FPP one may make sense. I prefer it to be centered. I'm curious on the scoop too as Mike suggested I order it when I ordered my kit.

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I am opposed to cutting the grill, and like that the ZL1 can be taken off without any damage. A little contradictory from the guy who drilled holes in his trunk I know.

Transmission is going in Sunday night. Along with everything short of the driveshaft and exhaust since I am waiting for the MGW to show up. I will document how the air deflector goes on. I gave Mike the heads up on that deflector so he should be recommending everyone orders it.

I contacted FP about it but didn't have the part number at the time. Next time I call I will bring up the part # again so they can possibly add it to the kit.

I was a little concerned with how stout the ZL1 hook looked like. I suspect if the hook flexes the grill may break anyway. I got the Baldstig one but it requires cutting the lower grill. I ordered an extra upper grill so I may cut that one and get the FPP one.

barstowpo said:

I was a little concerned with how stout the ZL1 hook looked like. I suspect if the hook flexes the grill may break anyway. I got the Baldstig one but it requires cutting the lower grill. I ordered an extra upper grill so I may cut that one and get the FPP one.

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It is pretty stout, but damn tight in the grill. Flex from a lateral pull could affect the grill though. I had never heard of the Baldstig option. You have pictures of it? What are your thoughts on the product?

I guess the hook I have is from Rocket Science Racing. Baldstig is his screen name. It is a pretty stout piece.

She is out and up for sale!


I just removed this transmission from my 2016 GT350 Tech package. Transmission has 6500 miles on it with no track days, burnouts, or missed shifts. This model is exclusive to the GT350 and not currently available for purchase to the public. Probably the best transmission offered from Ford to date. Light years ahead of the M82. The transmission is still wet with the oem fluid from the factory. This model does not have the internal pump which makes it much easier to adapt to your coyote or project car.

Below is a link for more information regarding the transmission if you do not already know about the specifics. A simple google search will result in plenty of reading material.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/news/1509-2016-shelby-gt350-gets-beefed-up-tremec-tr-3160-six-speed/

The transmission is available as follows:

Transmission only $2200
Transmission + OEM shifter $2300
Transmission + Shelby American cooling scoop $2400
Transmission + Scoop + Shifter $2500

Local pickup preferred, but I have the materials to ship it if you want to pay for shipping.

50 Deep said:

She is out and up for sale!


I just removed this transmission from my 2016 GT350 Tech package. Transmission has 6500 miles on it with no track days, burnouts, or missed shifts. This model is exclusive to the GT350 and not currently available for purchase to the public. Probably the best transmission offered from Ford to date. Light years ahead of the M82. The transmission is still wet with the oem fluid from the factory. This model does not have the internal pump which makes it much easier to adapt to your coyote or project car.

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Congratulations on your progress [MENTION=20243]50 Deep[/MENTION]. Nice sales pitch and I hope you get your price(s):cheers:

My new boo....;)

Be sure to check the locating dowels that are on the back of the block didn't come off with the transmission bell housing. One of mine did so it needs to be placed back on the block. Looks like the transmission comes all set to be installed. Only thing that needs to transferred over is the temp sensor.

Couple comparison shots

Done

A long night, but everything is bolted in, torqued, and lines connected. The exhaust and driveshaft are still off since I am awaiting the MGW. Fluids have not been added so I can't say there are no leaks yet. In total I have about 16 hours into the job. This could probably be cut down with a lift, second set of hands, or just experience with this car already.

Pretty much everything bolt wise under the car can be removed with basic hand tools. I relied heavily on the following.
-10mm
-13mm
-15mm
-1/2in drive ratchet, swivel, extensions
-1/4in drive ratchet, swivel, extensions
-3/8in drive ratchet, swivel, extensions
-adjustable torque wrench
-transmission jack for install
-trim removal tool

The instructions didn't list removal of the driver side catalytic converter from what I saw, but it definitely needs to come off to make life easier. The kit also includes new nuts for both sides of the exhaust

The instructions were also missing torque figures for a few items that I will list below. A few others are also not there, but these are the main ones.
-bell housing bolts 35 ft/lbs
-transmission damper 76 ft/lbs
-transmission mount bolts ??

Good news is all the bolts are pretty accessible. Top transmission bots requires every extension I owned. Reconnecting the breather tube to the transmission is a pain if you have big hands, and the retaining clip that holds it to one of the top transmission boltstuds is a nightmare. Every other bolt is there for the taking though.

I also like that the engineers bolted the starter to the block. When you remove the 3 bolts from the bell housing the starter remains in place. Do not have to worry about fiddling with it to get the bolts back in.

Word of advice for the cooler lines. Run the lines for the cooler from the fender into the engine bay first. This will give you a better idea of where to feed toe lines from the transmission into the engine bay. The brackets on the lines make it somewhat fool proof since everything will line up once bolted down.

[MENTION=13658]TDC[/MENTION] and [MENTION=22428]barstowpo[/MENTION] to answer your question, the deflector folds into itself like a rectangle and surrounds the grill opening.

Current plan is to have the car back on the road this weekend. Glad all the heavy lifting is over.