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People are definitely sleeping on the boss manifold as a worthwhile mod on an S550. I decided to get one because I plan to boost eventually but now that I've got it ported and tuned I would have went this route anyway. Thing absolutely screams. Pulls 52 to 53 lb/min consistently. My favorite...

This happened to me when I went with the gt350 air intake. After blaming me initially and saying I had to have a vacuum leak they eventually looked into it further and found the maf signal needed to be adjusted. I just switched to the jlt 350 air intake and the same thing happened. This time...

I had an almost identical noise last summer. It ended up being the evap solenoid. I don't know what made it start clicking but I removed it and had it deleted from the tune and noise was gone.

I didn't have good luck with the threaded rod method, although a little more heat might have helped that. When I used the mmr bolt I only used one washer at a time so I had 90 percent of the threads engaged, i turned it until it started to bottom out, backed it out, added another washer, and...

I used the lube that came with the arp bolt. I looked around for the torque spec and that's what I can up with. Forums though so wasn't 100%

Well just an update, car started and runs great, so I guess it's right, belt is aligned and not trying to hop off also

I used a heat gun on the hub for about 20 mins and then applied anti seize to the crank snout. I then used the install bolt until it bottomed out, quickly switch to the arp bolt, got a few turns on it, and than it got to a point where it would no longer move and felt like anymore pressure would...

I'm actually running it with out the ac hub. But it does appear to line up with the water pump. When I switched to the rap bolt I only got a few turns out of it, any more than that feels like it is going to start stripping threads. If it weren't for that gap and the fact that the rap bolt is...

After a lot of aggravation and finally ordering the mmr install bolt, I believe I finally have my Ati damper on correctly. I am however worried that it may not be completely pressed on due to the gap inside the hub from the crank about to where the damper bolt washer sits. It feels like it...

BTW whoever made the comment about holding the pickup tube bolt with an electrical tape leash to get it threaded back in is a godsend. I thank you very much.

I noticed removing the stock damper to begin my install this morning that there with silicone on the keyway behind the crank bolt washer. What have you guys been using to replace that? I've never read anybody mention it so I was wondering if it just get scraped away and not replaced it all...

thank you

I love it. I took a ton of material out of it when porting, probably almost too much as I'm worried when going boosted that it will crack at the injector bung. It's fun as hell to pull it all the way to 8 grand. I'm working with Lund right now to make the accufab 84.5 from the 11-14 work with...

Mods so far. Stainless Power longtubes MBRP Race Ported Boss I/M Ngauge w/ Lund Flex tune JLT GT350 CAI ATI Damper Boundary OPG TSS crank sproket MMR water pump pulley Moroso catch can MGW race spec GT350 steering wheel Raptor shift light UPR gloss black emblems BC...

What's the price point on these and where can they be purchased

I decided to do all 3 just for peace of mind. I feel a lot better having the ATI on there on top of the billet gears

Thanks for posting. You can see where the lower primary kicks out just below the bolt in the picture, but you clearly more space than I do. And judging by where you motor mount bolt is aligned you engine is sitting closer the passenger side than mine is. Maybe I do have an unusual set then

Its actually similar to the header install just without removing the headers lol

E85 helps to narrow it down, but I figured it out by logging pulls differently. I never had an issue with the a/c bolt, my issue is with the primary below cyl#1 primary, the one that kicks out way down in the pic.

It looks like there might be a little bit of adjustment built into the crossmember, I think I'm going to try a combination of adjusting that, the BMR motor mounts suggested and wrapping the headers so if I do have contact it's not a metal on metal clang to avoid knock.