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It's after the cats. The header, cat, and flex joint are all one piece. The leak is in the joint where it connects to the cat back.

This should be fun. I'm getting a fairly strong electrical burning smell on start up. Doesn't matter if it's hot or cold, does it every time and then goes away 5-10 seconds upon start up. Anyone experiencing this? I have a feeling this is gonna be a doozy.

This is an exhaust leak. It's coming from the little bracket welded on to the driver side joint, there is a small hole from the welder getting too hot. It requires the dealer to swap out the entire drivers side header and cat, so it's a pain in the ass. I'd throw on your stock exhaust if you...

The MS8 does tons of things other than just convert high to low level signal. It's a dual 30 band EQ, built in 24 db crossovers, automatic sound processing including time alignment and auto EQ, and the ability to assign each of it's 8 channels a frequency range, allowing you to run a 3 way...

Because its basically useless for track use.

The INVO sidewall looks tons better than the Super Sports. Car is looking great.

Yep. Launch control is on.

Your best option is probably to just sell the stock PP rims and tires and get the wheels you really want. I've seen them go for $1000-1200 in the classifieds and you can get some really nice 19's or 20's with much better tires than the Pirelli's for $2000.

You can also turn off autoplay in the settings. That will disable the system from trying to play music when you plug a phone in.

You're forgetting about the battery. While the system will never get anywhere near a 280 amp draw (it would have to be playing test tones at absolute full volume), even if it did, the battery would be able to handle the extra load for that short period of time. A system this size would be...

If you're going to go this route, I would highly advise carrying a jump starter of some sort, which kind of kills the whole weight savings thing... The lithium batteries work great in most situations, but just outside of optimal conditions will cause problems. The technology is still fledgling...

As far as subs go, Ascendant Audio, SSA, DC, Incriminator, etc are all making great stuff these days, mostly because they are all using the same parts. I'd still go with Fi just because of the customization they offer (paint matcing the logo to your ride FTW), but there are a lot of other...

JL amps are OK quality but still extremely overpriced for what you get. Everything else like components and subwoofers are lower quality and 2,3,4x the price of decent hobbyist level gear. JL is a really good example of a company that made good gear in the past and then sold out their name...

Back into your parking spot when you park, then when you start your car put it into 2nd gear quickly and pull out. Its barely louder than stock at the lower RPM. My neighbors have said they can barely hear me doing this.

Sealants are a synthetic wax. They form a bond with your cars finish at the molecular level that let's it last quite a bit longer than regular waxes. On some colors of paint like black or blue, sythentics leave a bit to be desired in the "lustor" department, and they also won't bead quite as...

Unless you need to buff out imperfections, I'd highly reccomend just waxing by hand.

You don't need a buffer unless your paint needs to be polished. Get yourself a synthetic sealer (I prefer Chemical guys Jet Seal) and do it by hand. Its insanely easy and lasts 6 months to a year depending on weather conditions. You can also wax on top of it for a a show quality shine every...

I've had 3 different Honda's spanning from mid 90's to late 2000's and they all were the worst rattling cars I've ever owned.

I forget to update my thread, but I was having the same issue as you. When I put my Ford Racing Cat back on, I noticed that the coupler connecting header to the exhaust had become unclipped and loose. When I put my new exhaust on I overtightened the bolts tighter than the reccomended torque...

Its mostly gonna be tires. Even then the best times you're gonna get on the street are maybe 5.2-5.5. The performance pack car requires a shift to third gear for the computer to register 60 as well. Its also worth mentioning that my car really came alive around 900 miles.