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Installing BMR lockout cradle

BmacIL

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A couple of messages back I noted I had installed the CB0005, but I also have the BMR handling springs to install. I wanted to try the CB0005 first to see how it felt. I sure hope this banging noise isn't the norm and is going to occur with these lowing springs when I install them??
If you install parts incorrectly, undesirable things can happen. Banging, clunking, popping are not normal sounds for any of these.
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BradleyMac

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If you install parts incorrectly, undesirable things can happen. Banging, clunking, popping are not normal sounds for any of these.
Glad to hear that, from the discussion it sounded like the banging as a result of installing most springs was pretty common.
 

Nagare

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Based on what he said about it coming with aftermarket shocks, you shouldn't have an issue with just the springs. I don't know if the spring install will have you just dropping the subframe/cradle (I don't know which is which to be honest) or if you'll have to move the shocks too.

I'm trying to decide if I want to just go ahead and order some replacement stock shock mounts to have just in case or if I want to get the wheel off and check the shock mounts and see if the noise goes away.

Is there a way to tell whether the issue is it not being tightened enough vs it being busted?
 

BmacIL

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Based on what he said about it coming with aftermarket shocks, you shouldn't have an issue with just the springs. I don't know if the spring install will have you just dropping the subframe/cradle (I don't know which is which to be honest) or if you'll have to move the shocks too.

I'm trying to decide if I want to just go ahead and order some replacement stock shock mounts to have just in case or if I want to get the wheel off and check the shock mounts and see if the noise goes away.

Is there a way to tell whether the issue is it not being tightened enough vs it being busted?
If you're going to get new mounts, go and get the steeda billet ones. There are ride quality improvements with them in addition to being quite a bit stronger. They have a spherical bearing instead of a cylindrical bushing, which lets the shock articulate freely through the travel and not bind up from higher frequency road inputs.
 

HoosierDaddy

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The CB005 was a breeze for me because I went to a garage that had a full lift. I wasn't sure how I'd feel working on the car at all (first time doing anything tbh) so I started with that and I'd say after it was lifted it was about a 1 hour job then I went to the front struts and then the rear shocks (where I figured out that I had to basically undo the CBO005!
Why does the CB005 need to be undone to install rear shocks? Also, what does undo mean in this context? Thanks.
 

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BmacIL

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Nagare

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Why does the CB005 need to be undone to install rear shocks? Also, what does undo mean in this context? Thanks.
To change the rear springs (which I did with the shocks) you have to lower the cradle which the CB005 is now supporting.

And undo means I started with installing CB005 and had to take it off to lower the cradle to get out the rear springs.

Because I have these two PDFs handy, check the CB005 and Steeda Spring install instructions. For the Steeda instructions, look at Figure 5, the first 3 and the 5th arrow are pointing at cradle bolts that need to removed.

The shocks alone don't require doing anything with CB005.
 

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Crossroads

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I installed the CB005 yesterday. I saw a few different methods of installation (loosen all 4 cradle bolts) , work side to side and pry cradle back into position, or do front only and then rear.

I didn't want to have to deal with realigning the cradle so I worked one side at a time, while keeping a pump jack with minimum pressure on the housing.

1) Removed the passenger cradle support (front)
2) Loosened the passenger rear bolt enough to slide the front cup in.
3) Tightened the rear bolt up to put the front back in it's original position
4) Installed the new cradle support and tightened all 3 bolts leaving a little wiggle room.
5) Lowered and installed the rear cup and spacer. Tightened with a little slack
6) Did the drivers side the same way.
7) Torqued all bolts to spec.

By keeping 3 of the 4 cradle bolts in all time, the intent was to minimize movement of the cradle.

Seemed to work out OK as I had no alignment issues.
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