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njarmstrong

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Great results, did your detailer give you an outline of the correction steps? It would be helpful for others who are not in the know about Opti-Coat to fully understand the prep that went in before the coating was applied - dropping Opti-Coat, or any other coating for that matter, won't yield your excellent results on their own.
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EngineerDave

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Great results, did your detailer give you an outline of the correction steps? It would be helpful for others who are not in the know about Opti-Coat to fully understand the prep that went in before the coating was applied - dropping Opti-Coat, or any other coating for that matter, won't yield your excellent results on their own.
My guy washed the car with a mild solvent to remove any existing wax/sealant. Then completely dried the vehicle (many of you know how the Mustang likes to hold water in sneaky places) clayed the car, then used a buffer to remove any surface scratches, swirl marks, paint imperfections etc which took about 4 hours. Mind you my paint was in incredibly good shape when this happened, I've only put about 1500 miles on it and had babied the car up until this point. After that about two more hours to apply the optiguard pro and let it set. When I arrived back at the shop we took it outside to look at it in direct sunlight, did some spot work on anything that wasn't 100% perfect, reapplied the coating in one place and after that we let it cure until it was ready to go. Now it's sitting in the garage for the next 2 - 4 days due to weather. You cannot get the car wet within the first 12 - 48 hours.
 

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As far as rock chip protection... which is more durable? Opticoat or a clear bra? Specifically Xpel Ultimate?
 

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As far as rock chip protection... which is more durable? Opticoat or a clear bra? Specifically Xpel Ultimate?
Optiguard Pro gives you some chip protection. The bra would give you the best chip protection on the front of the car, but I don't know if it still gives you the UV protection that Optiguard offers. I'd probably Optiguard Pro it first, then add the clear bar about a month later.
 

njarmstrong

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Opti-coat has little to no rock chip protection. It is meant to repel dirt/water/grime, not protect from rock chips. It is very thin, just like your clear coat. Any rock hit will chip it immediately, just like your paint.
 

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drabon74

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Opti-coat has little to no rock chip protection. It is meant to repel dirt/water/grime, not protect from rock chips. It is very thin, just like your clear coat. Any rock hit will chip it immediately, just like your paint.
this. Opti coat is a semi permanant coating that you can expect to remain hydrophobic for 3-4 years with regular washings. If in that time you have to polish the car the coating is removed. It is very thin and does very little to protect against rock chips.
I'm going with 22ple because it offers the same protection but for a shorter duration 18-24 months but has a better finish than opti coat, comes out looking like the car was just dipped in clearcoat. In 24 months the car will be ready for a nice polish anyway no matter what sealant you are using.
 

njarmstrong

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this. Opti coat is a semi permanant coating that you can expect to remain hydrophobic for 3-4 years with regular washings. If in that time you have to polish the car the coating is removed. It is very thin and does very little to protect against rock chips.
I'm going with 22ple because it offers the same protection but for a shorter duration 18-24 months but has a better finish than opti coat, comes out looking like the car was just dipped in clearcoat. In 24 months the car will be ready for a nice polish anyway no matter what sealant you are using.
Yup. I actually got VXPro 2 from 22ple for my car. Won't officially be released for another couple weeks, pretty pumped to get it on there in a couple weeks.
 

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You guys are saying opticoat which is different than OptiGuard Pro. Pro is more permanent, is a harder coating and considerably thicker than the stock clear coat. It does offer -some- protection from rock chips. Guard also has a 5 year warranty for the coating, and I've seen it last first hand considerably longer. If it starts losing superhydrophobic properties you need to clay it. 22ple can also be applied on top of it if you want to add even more gloss to the final product.
 

njarmstrong

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You guys are saying opticoat which is different than OptiGuard Pro. Pro is more permanent, is a harder coating and considerably thicker than the stock clear coat. It does offer -some- protection from rock chips. Guard also has a 5 year warranty for the coating, and I've seen it last first hand considerably longer. If it starts losing superhydrophobic properties you need to clay it. 22ple can also be applied on top of it if you want to add even more gloss to the final product.
Okay, so the standard commercial version of OptiCoat is Opti-Coat 2.0 - the professional options is OptiCoat Pro - it isn't called OptiGuard. The Guard products are for leather/fabric - not for paint. The primary difference between 2.0 and Pro is the length in which the coating is stated to last. Neither provides any sort of rock defence, period.
 

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You should not put 22ple or any other semi perm coating on top of opti coat. You will not get enhanced gloss. Its nowhere near as thick or hard as the cars clearcoat either and will offer nothing in the way of rock chip protection. Dave it sounds like your detailer filled you full of misinformation. Opti coat(the commercial version) is a good product if you dont like waxing every 3-6 months, and it does protect the paint from swirls, marring, etc that happens through normal washing and wear and tear. That alone makes it worth the $$ to a lot of people. But it is not a miracle substance that is stronger and thicker than the cars clearcoat.
 

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EngineerDave

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You should not put 22ple or any other semi perm coating on top of opti coat. You will not get enhanced gloss. Its nowhere near as thick or hard as the cars clearcoat either and will offer nothing in the way of rock chip protection. Dave it sounds like your detailer filled you full of misinformation. Opti coat(the commercial version) is a good product if you dont like waxing every 3-6 months, and it does protect the paint from swirls, marring, etc that happens through normal washing and wear and tear. That alone makes it worth the $$ to a lot of people. But it is not a miracle substance that is stronger and thicker than the cars clearcoat.
I am going to have to disagree with some of what you said. First off I was wrong about the thickness. modern top clear coats are around 60-90u thick and Opticoat (it doesn't say if it's the pro or standard product) according to their website is around 2u. However because it resists scratching/swirls better than a standard clear coat, by nature it would have to be harder in the technical term. Hardness is measured by the ability to receive scratching. 9H being the hardest which is what the Opti products rate as, which is the same level as diamond. Unfortunately I can't find any actual data on the thickness of the pro product other than "It is believed to be a thicker coating than the consumer product."

The name it's self is weird because the original used to be Opti-coat, then when they released the consumer model Opti-coat 2.0 they changed the name of Opti-coat (pro) to Opti-Guard. It's referenced interchangeably throughout the internet which makes it difficult to discuss. To make matters worse they've added another product specifically for the interior called Opti-guard, and as such I've seen the professional exterior clear coat referred to as Opti-coat Pro, and Opti-Guard Pro. :headbonk: I believe what my guy used is listed on their website as Opti-Coat Pro Plus which has an added gloss coating, which he simply calls Opti-Guard. My guess is it's turned into the whole Q-Tip, Hoover, Google, ziplock situation where it's just the generic name for the exterior product for the car.

It is a permanent sealant, that repeals water, dirt, and oils. It resists scratching considerably better than a standard clear coat due to it's hardness. It provides UV protection which helps to prevent fading of plastics, oxidation of clear plastics, and loss of luster of standard paint.

I'm not trying to pitch the product as an alternative to the bra or anything lol, I said it offered -some- chip protection, as in better than nothing at all. That's just from having an extra coating on the car with different properties. That's just a hypothesis on my end though. Would still recommend the clear bra. :thumbsup:

You can put waxes and sealants on top of the opti-guard, it just won't stay very well just due to the nature of the coating. He may have been confused with the 22ple though and I'll concede that. I haven't found anyone having applied it onto an Opti-guard/coat (2.0 or pro or whatever) yet, but they do offer a gloss application that you can apply onto the car after it's been treated. :cheers:
 

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For those in the know about this product or products similar to this, can you apply the product after a clear bra has been put on? I was told my a detailer that you can.

I have Suntek on the majority of the front car. Just want to see if I can still apply this product.

Thanks.
 

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For those in the know about this product or products similar to this, can you apply the product after a clear bra has been put on? I was told my a detailer that you can.

I have Suntek on the majority of the front car. Just want to see if I can still apply this product.

Thanks.
Yes, it will prevent discoloration of the bra. It can be used on paint, plastic, glass, and vinyl.
 

EngineerDave

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Thank you for the answer. I don't have a follow up: how does the bra discolor? Isn't the bar clear?
Anything exposed to sunlight over a period of time can and will fade or discolor. Cloudy headlights? Oxidation from sunlight. Vinyl will fade over time from it, as will plastics on the car. Even clear will still to yellow. Opticoat Pro will keep that from happening.
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