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Super Werty

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Looks like you have the ten inch springs up front. They should be 8 inches I believe. My adjuster nut is also higher up than yours.
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gsxr1300

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cool do you know your alignment specs?
 

NvrFinished

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Right now I'm running -1.6 degrees front camber with 0 toe. Caster is max with the left side about .3 or so less to counter for road crown. The rear is -2.0 camber with a little more than 1/8" negative total toe.

It's setup as a compromise right now for street and the track. I ran it at Laguna Seca last month with my 20" tires and it did pretty well. I will still need to dial in more negative camber up front for my track tires.
 

gsxr1300

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Thank I think I need more front negative camber, its rubbing abit I have 275/35R20 also.
 

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gsxr1300

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Are you adding negative camber yourself?
 

gsxr1300

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NvrFinished

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Yes, it must be your camber then. The 9.5" width makes up for the more negative offset compared to me. My front is 35mm. The only rubbing I incurred was at the very top of both front fender wells (looking up with wheels off) when I was at Laguna Seca. Otherwise I have no issues on the street.

My goal is to purchase some toe plates and a camber gauge so that I can adjust the front toe and camber for when I go to the track.
 

gsxr1300

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Thanks

A magnetic camber gauge?
 

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NvrFinished

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I'm not sure yet, but I'm leaning toward the magnetic since most people seem to like the accuracy of the digital readout. I just have to research what type of adapter is needed for the aluminum wheels.
 

qtrracer

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I'm a big fan of the Longacre Digital C/C gauge with quickset adaptor. You do need to place tape on the painted wheels where the off-sets touch, but the gauge itself is dead accurate and measurements are easily repeatable. The gauge itself can also be used as a angle finder too. I also use their toe-plates. A word on those. You need to be sure the suspension is square before moving the adjuster ends. Otherwise you may have the toe correct but crabbing a bit.

A word on camber adjustment. You should use C/C plates rather than slotting the struts or using a camber bolt. Reason one is that making adjustments is so much easier with the plates. You don't need to get into the suspension mounts that would be required using the other methods. Reason two is that the factory KPI is not that great when in dive and roll. But moving the spindle inboard at the top for more camber messes it up further. Start with -2* camber, +6.9 caster, your toe choice (I like a bit of toe out up front; toe in for the rear) and check tire temps to see how the tires are working. Adjust as necessary.
 

NvrFinished

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I'm a big fan of the Longacre Digital C/C gauge with quickset adaptor. You do need to place tape on the painted wheels where the off-sets touch, but the gauge itself is dead accurate and measurements are easily repeatable.

A word on camber adjustment. You should use C/C plates rather than slotting the struts or using a camber bolt. Reason one is that making adjustments is so much easier with the plates. You don't need to get into the suspension mounts that would be required using the other methods.
Thanks for the info on the quickset adapter. The only thing about the RideTech Coilovers that I'm not a fan of is the fact that you can't use CC plates. The upper mount is slotted for caster adjustment and they use a large camber bolt on the lower mount for camber adjustment. Other than that, I love the RideTech setup.
 

spiller

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I'm interested in these coilovers for dual use daily and track use. I currently have BMR handling springs paired with FRPP track struts/shocks and the car is just terribly soft, vauge and floaty to me. Feels like the chassis is riding on top of the suspension rather than them working as one.

What spring rates would people recommend? Would 400/600 be too stiff for daily duties?
 

BmacIL

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I'm interested in these coilovers for dual use daily and track use. I currently have BMR handling springs paired with FRPP track struts/shocks and the car is just terribly soft, vauge and floaty to me. Feels like the chassis is riding on top of the suspension rather than them working as one.

What spring rates would people recommend? Would 400/600 be too stiff for daily duties?

[MENTION=16078]GTP[/MENTION] :lol: He's running as stiff/stiffer than I am.

[MENTION=29474]spiller[/MENTION], I am wondering if you would get what you want by just changing dampers to Bilstein or Koni. You might also want upgraded bars.
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