Ford Racing ProCal Tune

[ForYourOwnGood]

Maybe we're confusing terms? When you say inlet, you're talking about the part that brings the air in from the grill right? I set the 2 side by side when I pulled the stock one out to install the FP part and the stock one is bigger. They aren't even the same shape completely, that's why it has to be trimmed. If you didn't trim it, you can still force it on there. That isn't a good thing though and didn't make the installation better. If you look at the section where Bill trims the rubber, on the stock box, there's a square piece of the grill inlet that is being blocked off if you don't trim that. Look at your stock intake if you saved it. On one end, there's a square section, that's missing on the FP inlet. The other end is more of a triangle. As far as it being 3x bigger, I think you might be talking about something else, maybe the box?

No, I'm talking about the same part. Whatever the case is, theres no rubber blocking anything on the grille-to-inlet piece, I just checked it earlier (and its 8 degrees outside :( ) so I'm not taking that abomination back off the car just to cut a line in the rubber.

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[jbailer]

Here is the best way I can explain it. If you look in the CJ Pony Parts video at 1:40 where Bill has the inlet pointing towards the camera, look at the shape of the opening. All of that is exactly like our inlet opening, shape and size except for the bottom part. Look at my pic below of the stock inlet. The part I highlighted in blue is common between the 2. The red part is on the stock bigger inlet and blocked off by the GT350 inlet.

 

[ForYourOwnGood]

Here is the best way I can explain it. If you look in the CJ Pony Parts video at 1:40 where Bill has the inlet pointing towards the camera, look at the shape of the opening. All of that is exactly like our inlet opening, shape and size except for the bottom part. Look at my pic below of the stock inlet. The part I highlighted in blue is common between the 2. The red part is on the stock bigger inlet and blocked off by the GT350 inlet.

Maybe they updated the kit, because my inlet came in a separate sealed bag and fits like the purple line here if that was the back of the grille. I can see daylight around it. It is much larger than the stock one. Like I said before, the stock one literally slides inside of it. If I ever take it back off I'll put pictures of it, too damn cold to mess with it right now.

Anyways, can't wait to get the tune loaded in on monday. Gonna be nice. Time for an intercooler next I think.

 

[jbailer]

Maybe they updated the kit, because my inlet came in a separate sealed bag and fits like the purple line here if that was the back of the grille. I can see daylight around it. It is much larger than the stock one. Like I said before, the stock one literally slides inside of it. If I ever take it back off I'll put pictures of it, too damn cold to mess with it right now.

Anyways, can't wait to get the tune loaded in on monday. Gonna be nice. Time for an intercooler next I think.

That's great news, thanks for sharing that! It sounds like they did indeed update the kit. Mine didn't come that way. Mine looked exactly like the one Bill has in the video. Now I'm wondering if I can get that piece from FP? I don't mind taking it back out, it was very easy. It's much warmer here too, 20*. Fortunately I just installed a thermostatically controlled electric garage heater this winter and LOVING it!

Did the separate part for the inlet come in a bag with a part number on it?

 

[ForYourOwnGood]

That's great news, thanks for sharing that! It sounds like they did indeed update the kit. Mine didn't come that way. Mine looked exactly like the one Bill has in the video. Now I'm wondering if I can get that piece from FP? I don't mind taking it back out, it was very easy. It's much warmer here too, 20*. Fortunately I just installed a thermostatically controlled electric garage heater this winter and LOVING it!

Did the separate part for the inlet come in a bag with a part number on it?

I don't know for sure if it did, I have no idea what I did with the wrappers for everything right at this moment. I'm going to sleep (working nights sucks) but I'll check the trash can in the garage when I get up.

 

[jbailer]

I don't know for sure if it did, I have no idea what I did with the wrappers for everything right at this moment. I'm going to sleep (working nights sucks) but I'll check the trash can in the garage when I get up.

Awesome! Really appreciate it. This might help those of us that got the original part to identify what we need when talking to FP.

 

[TheLion]

I know the FP Tune Eco could out pace the v6 cameros and stangs, but a WRX sti ? Ok, now you are going to get me out on that road with a false sense of confidence ;)

STI isn't as fast as you think. It runs a 13.4 quarter mile bone stock...it only makes 290ft-lbs and 305Hp at the crank. It's also heavier than the WRX, weighing in at 3456lbs, not the lighter 3272 of the regular WRX.

Focus RS runs the same 1/4 mile and is nearly identical weight (3459lbs). But we all know fords crappy FMIC's, so depsite the focus RS having 350hp/350ft-lbs its no faster.

A guy on this forum has his wife's mustang EB tuned with the FP tune, it was an auto with a 3.15 rear end and 235 all seasons, stock FMIC which heatsoaks even on a bone stock EB after just 1st and 2nd gear, she ran a 13.5 with all of those handicaps and being an inexperienced driver.

So yes, a 3.55 PP auto or 3.73 manual with a FMIC and FP tune will run significantly quicker, especially with tires. The EB's problem is traction because it's not AWD, it's no power. The guy whose wife ran the 13.5 said he couldn't launch on anything higher than 10psi or he'd just roast the tires. The WRX's make the most of their power more easily because they are AWD, so you don't need high end tires to launch them. The key is the launch (especially with manual), the rest is pretty simple even for the average driver.

The FP tuned EB literally makes 100ft-lbs more torque than a stock STI and another 30 hp, that's before an FMIC. Once you get better cooling, you'll make a bit more power and torque as well. Go back an look at Fox's dyno with his FP tune, they actually compared the car bone stock, stock with a FMIC and CAI, then with FMIC, CAI and FP tune. He gained around 20hp just from the FMIC on an otherwise stock car.

 

[TheLion]

Yeah, that part just bothered me because it was a re-use from the GT350 and the solution is to cut it and fold it back. I'm familiar with the construction since I had it shipped to me and I'm the one that installed it.

What really bothers me though is the fitment of the intake tube. I'm hoping someone figures out a way to fix that. I've thought about maybe replacing it with my AirAid intake tube or maybe cutting off the accordion like coupling that's right by the air box and replacing it with a shorter smooth coupler. Those ridges probably induce turbulence anyways.

Your spot on with the intake tube needing to be cut on the bottom. But the top part isn't exact either, on the right side topish area (if you facing the car while standing in front), there's also about 2mm of gap, it's not a "sleeve" like fit. So that's what I was referencing possibly wrapping foil tape around it, that will seal up the whole shebang.

Also I pulled the Brisk RR14S plugs, there is a lot of black carbon buildup, they are deffinately too cold and also being that they are non-projected, they are going to retard effective timing.

I ordered a set of the OE plugs, but to my amazement when I opened them up two of them had tips that were bent over at 45 degrees so I tossed them.

I found an OE direct replacement Iridium from Auto Lite that I got at autozone for $8 a plug. They are projected and identical in terms of how deeply they project, but the auto lites have a platinum ground strap for longer service life. While I will probably change them every 20k~30k like I would the OE's, they should provide more consistent performance as they age due to the platinum ground strap.

Auto Lite XP5863. The FP guys said to run OE or any OE equivalent. The XP5863's seem to be of higher build quality than the Ford OE's I've gotten recently, that's for sure.

http://www.autolite.com/Productfind...||2016;;Make||54;;Model||688;;Engine||17889;;

I noticed quite an increase in responsiveness from the car and idle is much smoother. I was getting those typical and all too common idle dips down to around 550~600 rpm with the RR14S.

Now the Brisk RR14YS may work well as they are projected tip like the OE. The RR14YS is the one however I had crack an insulator when I was running Livernois 93 tune (given the power output of the LMS 93 tune, Brisk said the RR14YS was not suitable). I'm wondering if the RR14YS would be suitable for the FP tune however given that it's designed to be run with OE plugs...

 

[Regs]

Once I get some tires and some practice on the launch, I will track it and see what I can get. All sounds promising for the summer if I don't get arrested or my license revoked in the meantime.

Some guy last night in a Maxima look like they were doing 120-140mph on a pretty busy road with lights. Pretty sure I could of kept up, but I did not want to end up dead or arrested. He was pulling hard even after 100mph so he must of had a tuned up v6 or he added a turbo on the 4 cyl. Maybe it was just him already going 80mph by the time I was going 60mph trying to catch up. When he got up to the next light I was behind 2 other cars, but he looked a little slow off the line.

Ill go take a cam shot of my intake that I did not install yet to see if the inlet is any different.

 

[jbailer]

Your spot on with the intake tube needing to be cut on the bottom. But the top part isn't exact either, on the right side topish area (if you facing the car while standing in front), there's also about 2mm of gap, it's not a "sleeve" like fit. So that's what I was referencing possibly wrapping foil tape around it, that will seal up the whole shebang.

Also I pulled the Brisk RR14S plugs, there is a lot of black carbon buildup, they are definitely too cold and also being that they are non-projected, they are going to retard effective timing.

I ordered a set of the OE plugs, but to my amazement when I opened them up two of them had tips that were bent over at 45 degrees so I tossed them.

I found an OE direct replacement Iridium from Auto Lite that I got at autozone for $8 a plug. They are projected and identical in terms of how deeply they project, but the auto lites have a platinum ground strap for longer service life. While I will probably change them every 20k~30k like I would the OE's, they should provide more consistent performance as they age due to the platinum ground strap.

Auto Lite XP5863. The FP guys said to run OE or any OE equivalent. The XP5863's seem to be of higher build quality than the Ford OE's I've gotten recently, that's for sure.

http://www.autolite.com/Productfind...||2016;;Make||54;;Model||688;;Engine||17889;;

I noticed quite an increase in responsiveness from the car and idle is much smoother. I was getting those typical and all too common idle dips down to around 550~600 rpm with the RR14S.

Now the Brisk RR14YS may work well as they are projected tip like the OE. The RR14YS is the one however I had crack an insulator when I was running Livernois 93 tune (given the power output of the LMS 93 tune, Brisk said the RR14YS was not suitable). I'm wondering if the RR14YS would be suitable for the FP tune however given that it's designed to be run with OE plugs...

I always like following your posts. I remember the issues you had with the Brisks. I went with the Denso ITV22 and had the same problem you mentioned. Not a lot but I was checking them every 500 miles. It was consistent though so I switched back to the stock plugs. The stock plugs look great and I'm at 30k miles. I'll probably change them soon, didn't expect that much trouble sourcing them. I've been a big fan of Denso plugs for a long time now, I may just get the temp equivalent to stock. The biggest thing with the stock plugs was Ford's gapping or lack there of. That was one of the first things figured out on this platform. I think it was Adam from Tune+ (MAP at the time) posted a chart showing the problem with the gap inconsistencies. I checked mine and sure enough between the 4, they were all over the place. Re-gapped them and car idled very smooth. I don't drive the car hard enough to run colder plugs.

I'd like to figure out an optimal gap. I know the popular opinion is close them down but I don't think the FP tune increases the boost over stock. You get more benefit from the plug the larger you can make the gap and spark is reliable. I just don't have a good way to measure it. Any ideas? I'm at .028 right now.

 

[Regs]

I am down to 25.5 mpg from 26.5. But my car is racking up the miles now too and I am driving it harder. I am going to install an Airaid Modular Intake Tube to see if that helps. I might be running it too rich in the upper RPMS

 

[jbailer]

I am down to 25.5 mpg from 26.5. But my car is racking up the miles now too and I am driving it harder. I am going to install an Airaid Modular Intake Tube to see if that helps. I might be running it too rich in the upper RPMS

You do realize you won't be impacting the A/F correct? The ECU does that with active fuel trims.

 

[lizardrko]

whats everyone's opinion about running a different CAI than the GT350 one, warranty aside? Is the overall consensus that is would basically be just for sound/looks or is there any performance gain/degrade? The sound of this one is poop compared to my mishimoto.

 

[ForYourOwnGood]

After driving the car to work tonight with the tune in, I can say this is definitely how Ford should have shipped the car. The throttle doesn't feel like frozen molasses and it actually puts you back in the seat hard when you punch it in 2nd instead of dithering like a family sedan.

I think I'll be happy with this until the warranty expires since it is now my daily driver, going to be installing a CP-e intercooler in the next few weeks when it warms up and possibly some other small mods, then the cosmetic stuff can start. I got one of the MMR paint-matched decklid panels already on the way, and looking at some wheels.

 

[jbailer]

After driving the car to work tonight with the tune in, I can say this is definitely how Ford should have shipped the car. The throttle doesn't feel like frozen molasses and it actually puts you back in the seat hard when you punch it in 2nd instead of dithering like a family sedan.

I think I'll be happy with this until the warranty expires since it is now my daily driver, going to be installing a CP-e intercooler in the next few weeks when it warms up and possibly some other small mods, then the cosmetic stuff can start. I got one of the MMR paint-matched decklid panels already on the way, and looking at some wheels.

That's pretty much how I feel. It didn't turn it into a race car, the FP Tune turned it into a sports car, the way Ford intended it and it's fun to drive.

I wasn't familiar with CP-e until I got this ecoboost and I live in and am from Maryland. I have to say everything I've read and seen from them is top notch. I don't think you could go wrong with anything from them. Plus we have great support here on the forum from [MENTION=14142]Ron@cp-e[/MENTION]

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