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Z-plan grandfather passed away. Am I stuck paying consumer prices from that point on?

shogun32

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Are you saying you bought a new mustang for 15% below msrp?
yes. The GT would have been 15% off too but I went for the 0% and lost rebates. GT was early 2019, EB was May/June 2019. WCGT just bought his new 2021 GT for around 13% off on Friday of this week. You can buy a new MY21 for 11-13% (or better) from Lindsay Wheaton MD or Koons Silver Spring MD.

With the rebates (about $3000) on 200/201 trim ecoboosts you should be able to do even better.
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busapilot

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yes. The GT would have been 15% off too but I went for the 0% and lost rebates. GT was early 2019, EB was May/June 2019. WCGT just bought his new 2021 GT for around 13% off on Friday of this week. You can buy a new MY21 for 11-13% (or better) from Lindsay Wheaton MD or Koons Silver Spring MD.

With the rebates (about $3000) on 200/201 trim ecoboosts you should be able to do even better.
I was doing my math wrong. I sell these everyday and was looking at invoices and employee pricing and thought thereā€™s no way. But with the rebates and healthy discount it make sense. The mustang is one Ford I recommend taking the 0 % option because they typically don't have a ton of rebates.
 

JCFoster

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That's not that unheard of, especially outgoing MYs.

I got my 2016 car for 20% off MSRP (29.5k MSRP was 36.9k). My 2020 was 15% off (35.3k MRSP was 41k).
Same here on my ā€˜16. Different economy then.
 

Medsport

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I used the A-plan with my uncles pin when I got my 14 GT. It didn't save me much, maybe $750 or so if I remember correctly. I didn't even use it for my 16. I just used truecar and also got the 0% financing for 72 months which really helps. BTW, my uncle retired so not sure if he still can get a pin, but not really worried about it as I rarely talk to him anymore and not even sure where he's at as I heard he was thinking of moving.
 

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Cobra Jet

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I understand there's different tiers of the Ford "PIN" Plans, each varying slightly with the discount %.

I have X-Plan pricing and as stated above @Medsport, I too was able to get a much better deal when I originally purchased my prior new 2016 S550 in Dec 2015.

Anyone with Ford XYZ Plans should not show their cards initially when shopping. Also if you have a trade-in or cash to put down, do not tell or elude to it. If asked, just say no or you're not looking to trade your vehicle or that cash isn't an option at this time.

Sit down, get the Dealership to work up their best pricing. At this point, you're only interested in the OTD price, period. That's the total price you will pay including ALL taxes/fees, any available incentives and any applicable Dealer or Ford discounts.

Leave.

Compare what they worked up OTD to your XYZ Plan pricing. If it's better, don't even reveal the XYZ Plan to them, it's pointless, even if you can save the "doc fees" (which BTW, you can usually negotiate out any BS Fees under $1k if being really pushy)...

Call them back (or email) and haggle with them some more to see if their OTD price will drop if you "buy today".

If you're satisfied with their OTD, ask the Salesperson to email you the figure and that it includes all fees/taxes/discounts so it's in writing "because you don't want to be flim-flammed" when you get there.

Go back to the Dealer; once there and ready to do paperwork - IF you had a vehicle you were going to trade (OR cash to put down) spring it on them NOW. At this point in the game you and them have agreed to the OTD. They now have to reduce the OTD further by incorporating your trade and/or cash down, whichever you're opting to add to lower the OTD.

BINGO. You beat them at their game and end up getting a killer deal, more so than if you used XYZ Plan.

The thing is - if you show your cards up front - YOU'RE DONE and have no way to wiggle at all, because they've already incorporated your cards into their game. That means, don't discuss trades, cash down, possible XYZ Plan, period. Go in like a chump to get them to give you their best OTD - wait and review..... then, boom - throw your cards down and they're SOL. If they don't like it, just get up and leave.

The above works, no BS.

Don't EVER get an emotional attachment and think there's no other vehicles equipped the same. Don't be intimidated or think that your Ford XYZ Plan is the only and/or "best" pricing, it's not.
 

Traffic22

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Sorry for your loss. Most of the suggestions above involve at least a little negotiation on your part. For me, I love that. Iā€™ll sit in the dealership all day long, grind them for every nickel then walk.

Iā€™ll take their ā€œbestā€ offer to another dealership and show them. Inevitably, theyā€™ll beat it, and Iā€™ll call the first dealership (sometimes literally from the parking lot of the second dealership.)

Iā€™m happy to do this back and forth for days if necessary. And if they piss me off, Iā€™ll bring a 3rd dealership in the mix just to make sure Iā€™m grinding out the best deal. (You can do this via the email too, but more impactful if youā€™re in person.)

But, Iā€™m one of those handful of old guys left who grew up negotiating this way, Iā€™m comfortable doing it, and like @Cobra Jet said, I donā€™t get emotionally attached to the car Iā€™m trying to buy.

If youā€™re not comfortable grinding out a deal on your own, check with your local Credit Union. You may; depending on where you live, what you do for a living, if you were in the military, if youā€™re in a union, etc, qualify to join. Most only require a small deposit, and most have much better interest rates than the bank. (Or Ford unless youā€™re getting a special deal.) Some also have a car buying program where theyā€™ll find you the car you want right around invoice.

Is it the ā€œbestā€ deal. Probably not, but if you want the simplicity and convenience of one or two phone calls then just showing up at the dealership and signing papers, itā€™s one way to do that.
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