Would you change you mind if you could reverse your Mustang Purchase?

[bnightstar]

I would not replace the brakes from the PP1. Maybe pads, but not the rest.
In addition to what you mentioned also get:
-Upper and lower K braces and cowl extension panel
-Front lateral arms with bearings
-Front tension arms with brake deflectors
-TORSEN diff with 3.73 gears - cannot overstate the importance of this one
-PP splitter and belly pan that allow the brake deflectors to work
-Unique EPAS calibration - cannot add this later
-Unique advancetrac/TC calibration - cannot add this later
-Unique ABS calibration - cannot add this later

I did start from a base and there's no way I'd do it again. I didn't save money vs the package and it was a lot of work.

Eu spec cars don't have the TORSEN nor 3.73 gears though :( So that I still need to add. I agree that some of the things on the list are needed though but still Vorshlag car did ok for Base 2018 even though they do added the brakes as well as the PP splitter and belly pan and the Diff. So even for just this things PP1 is a good value.

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[Brian@BMVK]

Eu spec cars don't have the TORSEN nor 3.73 gears though :( So that I still need to add. I agree that some of the things on the list are needed though but still Vorshlag car did ok for Base 2018 even though they do added the brakes as well as the PP splitter and belly pan and the Diff. So even for just this things PP1 is a good value.

They wanted to go with a different diff and aftermarket radiator anyway, but I'd still argue they'd have spent less/the same and done less work with a PP1. They would've also not wasted several track events with the base front brakes and rear diff/gearing. The Powerbrake front caliper setup they went to is certainly nice and has some benefits, but is not really an upgrade for almost anyone outside of a dedicated track car. At $4k the PP1 is not nearly as good of value as it was in 2015 at $2500. If I could go back in time, that's how much it would've cost and it should've been a no-brainer for me. Even through 2017 it was $3000. That is crazy good value for what you get.

 

[bnightstar]

If I could go back in time, that's how much it would've cost and it should've been a no-brainer for me. Even through 2017 it was $3000. That is crazy good value for what you get.

I think the PP2 is great upgrade with the bigger wheels and tires and the new Mach 1 will even be better deal though price not clear yet. But the Magride is a bit on the soft side for dedicated track car.

 

[Brian@BMVK]

I think the PP2 is great upgrade with the bigger wheels and tires and the new Mach 1 will even be better deal though price not clear yet. But the Magride is a bit on the soft side for dedicated track car.

Yeah I wouldn't pay for the Magneride personally, and the PP2 wheels, while nice and wide, are very heavy for the price vs popular flow-formed offerings.That's where I'd save some money and just start with a PP1: add some <25 lb 19x11 square wheels and some high quality motorsports coilovers for less than the PP2.

 

[bnightstar]

Yeah I wouldn't pay for the Magneride personally, and the PP2 wheels, while nice and wide, are very heavy for the price vs popular flow-formed offerings.That's where I'd save some money and just start with a PP1: add some <25 lb 19x11 square wheels and some high quality motorsports coilovers for less than the PP2.

Yeah I agree with that. My access to 305 semi-slicks is very limited so my plan is to go with 19x10 and 295/30 square but overall same here.

 

[Qcman17]

Overall I really like the car but the strange behavior of the A10 trans is giving me some pause. It can be the smoothest shifting trans I have ever driven at one moment and harsh and jerky the next on 3-4 and 4-5 upshifts under firm acceleration. I have to take my car in soon for service so I'm hoping to have that addressed.

The car is beautiful and I get compliments on it constantly. People rolling down their windows to talk about it, thumbs up you name it! It sounds glorious on throttle input and goes like a mofo too! So I think yes I would still buy it for the good and hoping to resolve the not so good.........

 

[SoFla2016PP]

Drop in a (<$1K) Ford Performance power pack 2 and you’re nearly there, or a PP3 and you’re there or a little past there. You’ll still have OEM driveability characteristics, and more fun manual gear ratios. 91+ only, though.

if you mean the A10, that’s going to be very difficult to catch NA and probably not worth trying. Best bet there is to trade-in or consider FI (your engine is very well suited for FI).

Yeah I figured the A10's are pretty much out of range. Plans are LTH and tune, figured that should wake things up too.

Would the power pack 2 (tune, CAI and TB) really add 3-5mph in the quater?
THanks.

 

[Meatball]

Yeah I figured the A10's are pretty much out of range. Plans are LTH and tune, figured that should wake things up too.

Would the power pack 2 (tune, CAI and TB) really add 3-5mph in the quater?
THanks.

Power pack 2 will add about 2mph in the quarter at most. PP3 about 3. But those are OEM level quality, driveability, etc. it’s what Ford would have specd if they could force owners to have to use 91. On 91 you may get a little ping at tip in under load but it is by design, the Coyote is tuned to explore the ragged edge of knock, and not a problem, which is why FP offers it with a 3/36 drivetrain warranty.

LTH should help a little but you’ll get the most gains from e85 and a corresponding tune. But, and I don’t know what your situation is, your best bet may be to save up for FI. Paxton kits are (relatively) cheap, and your gen2 Coyote is really happy boosted. But you have to consider cost, smog depending on where you are, reliability and driveability if that’s important to you unless you go for a Roush or Whipple 50 state kit. Plus your car will have more value right now before you mod it, and any tune will invalidate your warranty unless you don’t have any left.

but boosted you’re talking 200+ more hp and in a different league.

 

[Justin]

Not a chance. I had been waiting for a GT for 7 years while driving my V6 S197. A lot happened during those 7 years and this time around I was able to get the car exactly how I wanted, which really is the only way you should ever buy a car. Settling for such a big purchase was a mistake for me previously when I got a base model and not the color I wanted. I couldn't be happier any time I get in the car, and modding is half the fun for me so having a clean slate to start all over with is amazing. Plus the new color made it impossible to resist

 

[Joe B.]

No, It is the most fun car I have owned, and practical, too.

 

[SoFla2016PP]

Power pack 2 will add about 2mph in the quarter at most. PP3 about 3. But those are OEM level quality, driveability, etc. it’s what Ford would have specd if they could force owners to have to use 91. On 91 you may get a little ping at tip in under load but it is by design, the Coyote is tuned to explore the ragged edge of knock, and not a problem, which is why FP offers it with a 3/36 drivetrain warranty.

LTH should help a little but you’ll get the most gains from e85 and a corresponding tune. But, and I don’t know what your situation is, your best bet may be to save up for FI. Paxton kits are (relatively) cheap, and your gen2 Coyote is really happy boosted. But you have to consider cost, smog depending on where you are, reliability and driveability if that’s important to you unless you go for a Roush or Whipple 50 state kit. Plus your car will have more value right now before you mod it, and any tune will invalidate your warranty unless you don’t have any left.

but boosted you’re talking 200+ more hp and in a different league.

Makes sense. Paxton you're looking $7k + installed right?

 

[drive_55_not]

Makes sense. Paxton you're looking $7k + installed right?

Depending on the shop, Installed and tuned will easily be 8+. Save the labor cost, Centi's are a pretty straight forward install.

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[Blue Moon]

I wouldn't order the factory stripes again. I can do stripes myself cheaper and better. As for the car itself, I'd absolutely buy it again.

 

[Spartan1]

I turned in a 2017 Challenger R/T I had leased for 2 years to help me decide if I really wanted a summer vehicle I'd have to store for 5 months. I enjoyed the car, turned it in last September and in October started to get restless. I've always wanted a GT, wife is a Ford employee and has worked on various Mustang launch projects, so I did a quick search. Found my car at the dealer in Flat Rock and bought it the next day, so I was worried about some buyers remorse after taking it home. I've never owned one, never driven one and took it on a 5 minute test drive.

I love the car, only has 3,000 miles on it, but it makes me smile every time I look at it, great spur of the moment purchase.

Edit: this is a great thread to read through, informative hearing peoples concerns, issues etc.

 

[Emilbadal]

Yes and No for me too.

Yes, if I knew that after 18.5K miles I'd have to overhaul the entire AC out of pocket, outta warranty.
Yes, If I knew that there would be some really petty stupid engineering issues like, Drivetrain clunking often when I shift between D and R, or vibration between 50-70 mph, or the god awful sound system and a slew of interior rattles.

No, because I really like its exterior design and after some modifications how great driving of a car it is. I never had any muscle cars before this, so I don't have a clue what a real muscle car should feel like, but I know that this chassis is very forgiving ,compliant and mod-friendly.

I understand that this car was built to a budget, but issues such as AC failure under 20K and clunky drivetrain for me is a big let down.

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