Wiring guide for NON B&O premium audio systems. No LOC required.

[StangTime]

Understood. Many thanks to Stang I went to Lowes today looking for Birch plywood but no luck. I'll have to check a few other places to see if anyone has it in stock.

I used the cheap 5-ply stuff. Plenty strong enough for the application and the carpet hides any imperfections.

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[m3incorp]

True and that may be the route I go.

I used the cheap 5-ply stuff. Plenty strong enough for the application and the carpet hides any imperfections.

 

[luv2fly3]

Another question guys, when you ran your cables to the back, where exactly did you run them down along the seats? Did you somehow get them inside the plastic housing under the panel or did you go under the carpet?

 

[StangTime]

Another question guys, when you ran your cables to the back, where exactly did you run them down along the seats? Did you somehow get them inside the plastic housing under the panel or did you go under the carpet?

I vaugly remember running my wires below the plastic part, along the body and going through the tunnel openings where the seat rails are welded to the body. I wish I had taken pics when I did it.

 

[luv2fly3]

I vaugly remember running my wires below the plastic part, along the body and going through the tunnel openings where the seat rails are welded to the body. I wish I had taken pics when I did it.

Ok. I’ll look closer and figure out the best way to run and secure it.

Did you do anything to secure the Hertz tweeters to the pillars? I dremeled the opening just enough so they fit snug. Just wondering about also securing them some way from the back?

Also, do you have any pics of how you fused your power feed from the battery and where you put the fuse holder in your engine compartment? I remember seeing some discussion about the best place to put that, but I can’t find that thread.

 

[m3incorp]

I know your message wasn't meant for me. Some people have hot glued the tweeters, I think I saw where someone made a strap for the back.

This is where I ran my fuse. It is not as close to the engine, as the pic makes it look. There is a plastic bar that runs to the shock strut tower that it is screwed into.

Ok. I’ll look closer and figure out the best way to run and secure it.

While messaging you, did you do anything to secure the Hertz tweeters to the pillars? I dremeled the opening just enough so they fit snug. Just wondering about also securing them some way from the back?

Also, do you have any pics of how you fused your power feed from the battery and where you put the fuse holder in your engine compartment? I remember seeing some discussion about the best place to put that, but I can’t find that thread.

 

[StangTime]

Ok. I’ll look closer and figure out the best way to run and secure it.

While messaging you, did you do anything to secure the Hertz tweeters to the pillars? I dremeled the opening just enough so they fit snug. Just wondering about also securing them some way from the back?

Also, do you have any pics of how you fused your power feed from the battery and where you put the fuse holder in your engine compartment? I remember seeing some discussion about the best place to put that, but I can’t find that thread.

The tweeters are press fit. Nice and snug. I didn't want to glue them in case I decided to ever change them out.

Battery connection and cable routing pics:

 

[Evolvd]

Another question guys, when you ran your cables to the back, where exactly did you run them down along the seats? Did you somehow get them inside the plastic housing under the panel or did you go under the carpet?

I ran my audio harness down the drivers side and routed it below that plastic tunnel. There’s not enough room to fit a harness in there and the passenger side doesn’t have enough room to fit a power wire so I ran that one below and along the passenger plastic tunnel as well.
As for the fuse holder, I mounted mine to the wall next to my battery box. I have a GT500 so I don’t know if you have the same panel but this was a good location which I could keep out of sight for a clean install. I also fabricated a piece of silicon sheet and cut it so it laid across the top and prevent any water from dripping onto it.

 

[MD18EcoStang]

This thread has been very helpful! I just finished upgrading my door speakers and tweeters. Went with Alpine, because it fit my budget. Added a small Kicker sub, and it's all I needed. Disconnected the center speaker and made the Forscan full-range audio change. Very pleased! A much more enjoyable and listenable system! I'll probably go ahead and also change out the rear deck speakers.

 

[Cathul]

This thread has been very helpful! I just finished upgrading my door speakers and tweeters. Went with Alpine, because it fit my budget. Added a small Kicker sub, and it's all I needed. Disconnected the center speaker and made the Forscan full-range audio change. Very pleased! A much more enjoyable and listenable system! I'll probably go ahead and also change out the rear deck speakers.

Instead of the rear speakers dedicate that budget to a DSP and a good setup.
You will be amazed how good even a budget system can sound if the DSP is set up correctly.

 

[MD18EcoStang]

Instead of the rear speakers dedicate that budget to a DSP and a good setup.
You will be amazed how good even a budget system can sound if the DSP is set up correctly.

Are you saying just leave the factory rear speakers in place? They seem weak compared to everything else. What DSP would you suggest that approaches the budget for rear speakers (which are about $120)?

 

[Evolvd]

Are you saying just leave the factory rear speakers in place? They seem weak compared to everything else. What DSP would you suggest that approaches the budget for rear speakers (which are about $120)?

The rear deck cover makes them weak. The carpeting is thick and covers the holes meant to transmit sound into the cabin.

 

[Cathul]

Are you saying just leave the factory rear speakers in place? They seem weak compared to everything else. What DSP would you suggest that approaches the budget for rear speakers (which are about $120)?

I say rip them out and put that money towards a DSP.

 

[MD18EcoStang]

I say rip them out and put that money towards a DSP.

Gotcha, but I need to figure out what that means first. I'm not very car stereo smart. Yeah, I know it's a digital signal processor. Can you recommend an affordable option that'll work for me? Figuring out what to buy seems to be the hardest part for me...

 

[Cathul]

Any 8channel DSP will do.
„Cheap“ new options are the Dayton DSP or the Rockford Fosgate DSR1.
Higher on the list, but also more expensive and advanced are JL Audio TwK88, all Helix DSPs, all Mosconi DSPs, Audison and others.
If you want to buy one look out for an installer with experience in setting things up and go with their recommendation.

Or learn it yourself, which will take some time. You need a USB mic for that, the most popular choices are the MiniDSP UMIK microphones.
Software you need is RoomEQ Wizard (short: REW). This software can be intimidating at first due to all the options, but there are literally thousands of how tos regarding REW available. It just takes time to learn on how to get repeatable and consistent measurements, learn the DSP software of choice and so on.

So letting an installer do all this is totally viable, if the installer knows what he is doing.

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