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Wiring guide for NON B&O premium audio systems. No LOC required.

Wickedluis

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Are you doing an amp delete and upgrade? If so, the harness I mentioned in the first post (idatalink HRN-AR-FO3) will allow you to interface with the plugs above the drivers kick panel. See my system wiring diagram PDF: View attachment Audio System Wiring Jul12-2021.pdf

Here is an example of how you can connect the HRN-AR-FO3 to a Cat5e or Cat6e STP cable and subsequent audio equipment in the trunk: View attachment Audio Signal Wiring Black AFO3.pdf
Here's the amplifier

20220617_163855.jpg
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Wickedluis

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Ok I think the plug and play kit for a subwoofer should work. I believe the signal is taken from the head unit itself so hopefully I won't have to use forscan. I don't want to take the eq setting off the other speakers yet.
That's the same amp as the one I removed. Connectors all the same too.
 

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Wiring it up: Study the diagrams. Everything you need is here.
Signals from the head unit are 2.7V peak at maximum volume on the dial. Ford did us one good thing on the head units, they give us unclipped signal all the way to max. So you can use the whole volume knob range if you want.
Everything is correct, except for the fact, that it's not 2.7V peak, but ~5V peak output from the ACM. ;)




And the reason why the ACM has a signal on both the positive and negative conductor is, that it's in fact just a stepped down (i.e. lowered voltage) high level Bridge Tied Load (BTL) output.
By the fact that you can reprogramm the ACM for both high- and lower level output just means that the high-level signal is stepped down from approx. 10V output to approx. 5V output. Otherwise it would have only a signal on the positive conductor and this would mean a different electrical circuit inside the ACM which is very unlikely due to the added cost that this additional circuit would generate (especially as the different signals are all sent out over the same wires in the corresponding connector, this would mean some serious reengineering of the ACM).

Frank Miketta (CTO Gladen and Mosconi) and me found that out while debugging some white noise issues in my installation with the Mosconi Pico 8/10 DSP amplifier while using the DSR1 as integration device.
We measured the voltages of both positive and negative conductor and the result was, that it's a simple BTL circuit with reduced voltage (that is then non-clipping as it's not driven into the technical limits of the circuit).
When you measure a high-level ACM you can clearly see, that at 5V output the high-level output is also not clipping, so when reprogrammed you only drive the ACM to half of its maximum output.

Pulling the DSR1 out of the signal chain and reconfiguring the Mosconi Pico 8/10 to high-level input (this amp can do high-level input with low-level signals!) almost completely removed the white noise issue in mids and tweeters in my installation.

Just for information for all of you.
 

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So this morning I loaded up Forscan for the first time, figuring I'd just try the audio adjustment for kicks before I do my full upgrade. But when I pulled up the module list, I don't see an ACM module listed. I know I have the ACM in my car with the 9 speaker system. Is that the same as the DSP module? Or could the install of my Kenwood head unit have somehow disabled the ACM all together? Sorry for my ignorance here.

Screenshot 2022-06-18 101945.png
 
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So this morning I loaded up Forscan for the first time, figuring I'd just try the audio adjustment for kicks before I do my full upgrade. But when I pulled up the module list, I don't see an ACM module listed. I know I have the ACM in my car with the 9 speaker system. Is that the same as the DSP module? Or could the install of my Kenwood head unit have somehow disabled the ACM all together?

Screenshot 2022-06-18 101945.png
It might be labeled DSP on your 2015. When you open it up if it's 727 then you are on the correct module.
 

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DSP is the amplifier in the drivers kickpanel. ACM is the radio module in the middle console, it’s containing the CD player. Above the ACM is the APIM, the thing with the screen, so when you change the headunit to an aftermarket one you don’t have the ACM anymore and all aftermarket headunits that I know have a flat frequency response anyway.
 

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Thanks guys. Yes, I remember removing several components in the dash to install the Kenwood. Like I said, forgive my ignorance. I'll be going to a new amp anyway, so it wouldn't have mattered in the long term. The amount of configurability for the eq, cross over, delay, etc... in the Kenwood will offer so much more anyway. Thanks for the responses!!
 

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Another quick question, is the easiest way to disconnect the center dash speaker to do it at the speaker itself or is there a connector under the dash near the oem amp that can be disconnected?
 

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Another quick question, is the easiest way to disconnect the center dash speaker to do it at the speaker itself or is there a connector under the dash near the oem amp that can be disconnected?
Pop the center trim panel out (the one with the vents in it). It comes out pretty easily. You can reach the connector from behind that.
 

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Another quick question, is the easiest way to disconnect the center dash speaker to do it at the speaker itself or is there a connector under the dash near the oem amp that can be disconnected?
I think all the bolts that hold speakers are 7mm, use this vid if u need help
Center Dash Speaker Removal-
 

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Got it! All disconnected. That makes a big difference in the overall sound for sure! Definitely much better. The sound stage in the front of the car sounds the way a stereo image should sound now. The other issue with the center speaker is it just a very harsh sounding speaker. Maybe conducive for phone audio, but not music. So with that gone, even with the factory front and rear speakers still in place, the sound is definitely more balanced.

Thanks for the help guys! Hope to put some new speakers and an amp in soon when “the treasury department “ approves the purchase. 😉😃 But that helped a lot in the interim.
 
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Wickedluis

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Everything is correct, except for the fact, that it's not 2.7V peak, but ~5V peak output from the ACM. ;)




And the reason why the ACM has a signal on both the positive and negative conductor is, that it's in fact just a stepped down (i.e. lowered voltage) high level Bridge Tied Load (BTL) output.
By the fact that you can reprogramm the ACM for both high- and lower level output just means that the high-level signal is stepped down from approx. 10V output to approx. 5V output. Otherwise it would have only a signal on the positive conductor and this would mean a different electrical circuit inside the ACM which is very unlikely due to the added cost that this additional circuit would generate (especially as the different signals are all sent out over the same wires in the corresponding connector, this would mean some serious reengineering of the ACM).

Frank Miketta (CTO Gladen and Mosconi) and me found that out while debugging some white noise issues in my installation with the Mosconi Pico 8/10 DSP amplifier while using the DSR1 as integration device.
We measured the voltages of both positive and negative conductor and the result was, that it's a simple BTL circuit with reduced voltage (that is then non-clipping as it's not driven into the technical limits of the circuit).
When you measure a high-level ACM you can clearly see, that at 5V output the high-level output is also not clipping, so when reprogrammed you only drive the ACM to half of its maximum output.

Pulling the DSR1 out of the signal chain and reconfiguring the Mosconi Pico 8/10 to high-level input (this amp can do high-level input with low-level signals!) almost completely removed the white noise issue in mids and tweeters in my installation.

Just for information for all of you.
Is the output of the ACM equalized or does that happen at the stock amplifier? I found a t harness that will give me a signal from the ACM to attach subwoofer but I really don't want to use forscan since I will be keeping the stock speakers in place.
 

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