Wiring guide for NON B&O premium audio systems. No LOC required.

[FreePenguin]

By disabling factory eq you turn off bass rolloff

lc2i thouth, you add bass, so it can be called bass restoration in a way. I’ve used lc2i in other cars. It works fine. I’d rather real signal, vs creating a signal

Sponsored

 

[StangTime]

(From adding a sub perspective only) Hmm, just wondering why then is a LC2i used in a kit like the one from plugnplaykits.com? That's the harness they extend and tap into.. Couldn't one just use those low level signals directly into an amp? Or is the LC2i just used for bass restoration? I didn't know it could actually accept low level inputs. Sorry for newb questions, I like to know what I'm getting into before doing anything. Thanks again

Do you have a 4" or 8" display on your center stack? Do you have Forscan and a programming device?

 

[BrianH87]

I have the 8" display. No forscan yet, but I planned on getting a device.

 

[StangTime]

I have the 8" display. No forscan yet, but I planned on getting a device.

You have 2 choices:
1. T-harness CARAV 12-240 behind the radio, run low-level signals back to the trunk down the drivers side. Run power down the passenger side from the battery. Hook up your sub amp and sub.
2. Grab signals off the rear speaker wires (no LC2i required IF you use an amp with hi-level signal sensing inputs. Run power down the passenger side from the battery. Hook up your sub amp and sub.

Now, @robsmack01 just did option 2 and he couldn't get his system working. This method has been proven to work. I am not sure what he did incorrectly. Waiting for him to report from the stereo shop.

 

[BrianH87]

Thank you!

 

[Cathul]

(From adding a sub perspective only) Hmm, just wondering why then is a LC2i used in a kit like the one from plugnplaykits.com? That's the harness they extend and tap into.. Couldn't one just use those low level signals directly into an amp? Or is the LC2i just used for bass restoration? I didn't know it could actually accept low level inputs. Sorry for newb questions, I like to know what I'm getting into before doing anything. Thanks again

Well... plugnplaykits.com builds a T-harness to put in after the amplifier when the signal is already amplified instead of a T-harness to put in before the amplifier when you have variable low level signals. Therefor they use a LC2i to transform that signal back into a low level signal.
Why they don't grab the low level signal and avoid that amplification and attenuation (through the LC2i) is beyond my imagination as both signals are right there at the amplifier. Speaker level in the grey and brown plug (for front/rear left/right in grey plug and tweeters/center channel in the brown plug), variable line level signal in the black plug (in case of 2015-2018 Shaker system).

 

[bobsled]

Well... plugnplaykits.com builds a T-harness to put in after the amplifier when the signal is already amplified instead of a T-harness to put in before the amplifier when you have variable low level signals. Therefor they use a LC2i to transform that signal back into a low level signal.
Why they don't grab the low level signal and avoid that amplification and attenuation (through the LC2i) is beyond my imagination as both signals are right there at the amplifier. Speaker level in the grey and brown plug (for front/rear left/right in grey plug and tweeters/center channel in the brown plug), variable line level signal in the black plug (in case of 2015-2018 Shaker system).

I'm with you because the factory amp is trash and only raises the noise floor. However, if you want to maintain factory ANC, the factory amp somehow processes those signals from the head unit. I'm not sure how you would integrate the ANC into an aftermarket DSP. But if I want noise cancellation, I'll drive my wife's car.

 

[robsmack01]

You have 2 choices:
1. T-harness CARAV 12-240 behind the radio, run low-level signals back to the trunk down the drivers side. Run power down the passenger side from the battery. Hook up your sub amp and sub.
2. Grab signals off the rear speaker wires (no LC2i required IF you use an amp with hi-level signal sensing inputs. Run power down the passenger side from the battery. Hook up your sub amp and sub.

Now, @robsmack01 just did option 2 and he couldn't get his system working. This method has been proven to work. I am not sure what he did incorrectly. Waiting for him to report from the stereo shop.

Update on the stealthbox....Local stereo shop got it working. They used a LOC. Not sure what brand. When i asked him about it, he said my wiring was for a 2022 (my build date was 11/21) and its different than the 21's. When i got home and took off his tape it looked like the exact same wires to me. Its working now with the LOC. No clue why it didnt work with the way i had it. Glad its working at least.
Im not in love with the sound yet. Seems like mostly low end bass. I know that 12" subs cater more to that. I prob just need to get use to it. If im still not happy down the road then I'll replace with 2 10"s.
Thanks again for all the advise. Your knowledge is much appreciated by me and the others on here.

 

[Cathul]

12's play the exact same bass than 10's if set up correctly.
If there is a difference it's a function of the cars transfer function, location of sub, quality of the input signal to the subwoofers amp and tuning.
That's why most people recommend getting a DSP and go active at least between front system and sub, if not fully active.

 

[robsmack01]

How's it working for you now?

Working fine. Im getting use to the lower bass. It tried doing the rear seat spacers to provide gap for bass but couldn’t get the very last bolt off the latch. Ended up stripping it. Just wasn’t meant to be lol

 

[robsmack01]

So worth the effort and expanse? Contemplating a dsp?

For me, having to buy all the wiring and tools plus equipment made it very expensive. Also getting a stealthbox instead of a traditional box added $500+. I was 'lucky" to find a display model for $779 instead of $1199 brand new. But i also didnt have to sacrifice a lot of trunk space. I can't speak on a dsp because i didnt go that route. The stereo does sound better with it and thats what i wanted. Music is very important to me so all in all it was worth it.
As far as effort goes, my install seemed very basic and i still didnt get it right. I spent a weekend going over instuctions and running wires. Its easy to get in the weeds with wiring and settings. If theres a good stereo place in town that doesnt charge an arm and a leg then i would recommend doing that.

 

[FreePenguin]

For me, having to buy all the wiring and tools plus equipment made it very expensive. Also getting a stealthbox instead of a traditional box added $500+. I was 'lucky" to find a display model for $779 instead of $1199 brand new. But i also didnt have to sacrifice a lot of trunk space. I can't speak on a dsp because i didnt go that route. The stereo does sound better with it and thats what i wanted. Music is very important to me so all in all it was worth it.
As far as effort goes, my install seemed very basic and i still didnt get it right. I spent a weekend going over instuctions and running wires. Its easy to get in the weeds with wiring and settings. If theres a good stereo place in town that doesnt charge an arm and a leg then i would recommend doing that.

stealth box are 1199 now?!?!?
they was 899 msrp few years ago.

I bought mine for 450 used, sold it for 500 used, saw a few go for that range 2 years ago.

I bought my JL 12w6v3 for 800, I sold it for 750 (they are discontinued/out of stock now) and the JL amp I paid 200 for is now 289 msrp before tax. I sold it for 200 after 2 years of use.

JL prices are blowing my mind, (I still will buy them) but covid has caused an unreal price increase of audio products.

 

[robsmack01]

stealth box are 1199 now?!?!?
they was 899 msrp few years ago.

I bought mine for 450 used, sold it for 500 used, saw a few go for that range 2 years ago.

I bought my JL 12w6v3 for 800, I sold it for 750 (they are discontinued/out of stock now) and the JL amp I paid 200 for is now 289 msrp before tax. I sold it for 200 after 2 years of use.

JL prices are blowing my mind, (I still will buy them) but covid has caused an unreal price increase of audio products.

Just checked and its actually $1099. If you can find them. Most are out of stock. I went with the JL 500/1 amp for $289 and the JL 4g wiring kit for $180. I coulda went with another decent wiring kit for cheaper.

. https://www.crutchfield.com/g_530/Custom-Subwoofer-Boxes.html

 

[StangTime]

I got the Hertz HCD4P and DCX 87.3 50 % off to desrisk this venture haha.

Waiting on quote for power to trunk as found a JBL 12TW1 400W Power Wedge 50% off.

Will decide on upgrading 6.5 or do sub, or just do all....

Will dynamat trunk & under rear seat plus Noico Red, and dynamet door panels to start. Don't feel like removing seats but you if do power to sub will probably do floors as well incl Noico Red...

You're on your way! The HCP4D has built in electronic crossovers so you can split up the frequency band between the upper and lower door speakers. You can set your cross-over around 500hz to 1khz to avoid the drivers resonant frequency. Start at 500hz and see how the midrange behaves. Make sure you wire the midrange with reverse polarity to the amp (+ to - and - to +). Using 12db crossovers has a phase shift at the crossover point that you will need to account. If you don't the mid-bass will be lacking as you will end up with a frequency response hole at the crossover point. This will also apply to the subwoofer with a 12db crossover. In which case you can wire it either way as follows:

Option 1:
Midrange in phase.
Mid-bass out of phase
Sub woofer in phase

Option 2:
Midrange out of phase
Mid-bass in phase
Sub woofer out of phase

I would keep the factory door 6.5" and do the sub if you had to choose one. The factory 6.5 drivers are not that bad and you can upgrade them later on if they become the limitation in your system. You will get more oomph with a subwoofer. Just make sure you disconnect the factory A-pillar tweeters because they are wired in parallel with the 3.5" door speakers.

Inner door panel Dynomat is a must if you ask me. The sheet metal needs it. Also the spare tire well and trunk floor and trunk sides if you can. Also do the areas under the rear windows back to the wheel arch. This area lets a lot of noise into the cabin. Under the seat not going to do much. The seat is a pretty good sound deadener. Rear seats have to come out to access the side panels and to run your power wire anyway, so might as well do it once and do it right.

 

[StangTime]

Invaluable tips!! Thank you!! Should I consider 4 Ohm tweeters and a better centre dash speaker ( I can get another set of 3.5s maybe infinity and gift one 87.3)?

You won't need to run tweeters if you install the Hertz DCX87.3. They are coaxial and will give you a full sound stage when paired with the 6.5" door speakers. Running another set of tweeters will just complicate the install and make things sound worse.

Most of us just disconnect the center speaker. It's more hassle to implement correctly than it's worth.

Sponsored