StangTime
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2019
- Threads
- 77
- Messages
- 3,508
- Reaction score
- 3,933
- Location
- Ontario 🇨🇦
- First Name
- Todd
- Vehicle(s)
- 19' GT PP1 Manual
- Thread starter
- #1
There's a lot of info scattered around the forums. Some correct, some not. The biggest mistake I see people making is trying to use a line output converter (LOC) to add an aftermarket system. They aren't required, add expense, and raise the noise floor. If you use the right signal source for your system and do some careful wiring, a LOC is not required. If only adding a sub to your existing factory stereo, that is the only case where you will use a LOC. Not covered in this post. Lot's of info on that elsewhere. This doesn't cover B&O systems. The wiring for these is different and I do not have info on that.
First step: Flatten the output of the head unit so that there is no funky molestation of the audio signal. We want a nice clean unaltered signal to feed our system with.
Use Forscan for this. If you don't know how, use the search function. Plenty of info on it here already.
There is one code to change in module 727 (Note: This code has been confirmed to work for 2021 models. If someone has different results please let me know):
727-01-02 00xx - First two digits we want set to 0. This disables any EQ Processing, bass roll-off etc. (tone controls will still function as normal)
Wiring it up: Study the diagrams. Everything you need is here.
Signals from the head unit are 2.7V RMS at maximum volume on the dial. Ford did us one good thing on the head units, they give us unclipped signal all the way to max. So you can use the whole volume knob range if you want.
If your goal is to remove the factory amp I recommend the idatalink HRN-AR-FO3 harness, it has all the necessary plugs needed to interface with the car without cutting the original factory wiring. This will have you completely unplug the factory amp from the car (you can even remove it to reduce weight). On that note, the warning chimes, door open, back-up warning, low fuel warning, ding-dongs etc. will now be re-directed to the speaker inside the gauge cluster because the Can-Bus is no longer connected to the factory amp. This is perfectly acceptable and doesn't impair the function of Sync or voice navigation as those sounds will still play through the new stereo system.
In the first diagram, ACM is the head unit and DSP module is the factory amplifier.
"CHIMES" should be replaced with the word "REAR" on pins 1,2,5,6 of C2385A. (typo in the service manual).
Pins 3,4,7,8 on C2385A are the FRONT audio signals
Pins 1,2,5,6 are REAR audio signals. All are low-level 2.7V RMS.
Ignore the noise cancellation signal lines, we won't use them.
IMPORTANT: If you are going to run the signals to the back of the car use the drivers side and make sure they are twisted pair and shielded for noise immunity. The outputs of the head unit are balanced for noise immunity but still require shielding.
Once you have your signals going into your aftermarket amplifier or DSP, it's up to you how you handle routing of the signals to power the # of channels (speakers) that your install requires. I couldn't possible cover all the options here.
Run all your speaker wire outputs from your amplifier up the drivers side of the car to the grey (C2385B) and brown (C2385C) connectors. Regular speaker wire "zip-cord" or Metra 9 conductor speaker cable work well for this. Make sure you run enough wires for all speakers.
The door midrange and the A-pillar tweeters are wired in parallel at some point under the dash. Best way to handle this is to use the brown C2385C factory connector for the door midrange and run new wires for your tweeters to your amplifier.
Getting it on: Note that the "Audio enable" from the ACM is only 6V. Many aftermarket amps have problems turning on with anything less than 7V. (Thanks Ford!) You will need a PAC TR4 to provide 12V from the 6V enable line, or tap into the BLUE/WHT wire in the trunk lid harness. That wire provides 12V to the rear camera circuit when the car is in ACC or RUN mode and that can be used to turn on your aftermarket system.
EDIT: Corrected tweeter wire colors.
Simplified diagram of the audio system. "AUDIO AMPLIFIER" is the factory amp/dsp unit.
Hopefully this info will help out anyone looking at upgrading the system in their car.
12 speaker system would already have a sub woofer in the trunk. The info in this post should still apply if planning on replacing the OEM sub with an aftermarket version. I.E. replacing the sub driver, and bypassing the amp on the back of the subwoofer enclosure.
First step: Flatten the output of the head unit so that there is no funky molestation of the audio signal. We want a nice clean unaltered signal to feed our system with.
Use Forscan for this. If you don't know how, use the search function. Plenty of info on it here already.
There is one code to change in module 727 (Note: This code has been confirmed to work for 2021 models. If someone has different results please let me know):
727-01-02 00xx - First two digits we want set to 0. This disables any EQ Processing, bass roll-off etc. (tone controls will still function as normal)
Wiring it up: Study the diagrams. Everything you need is here.
Signals from the head unit are 2.7V RMS at maximum volume on the dial. Ford did us one good thing on the head units, they give us unclipped signal all the way to max. So you can use the whole volume knob range if you want.
If your goal is to remove the factory amp I recommend the idatalink HRN-AR-FO3 harness, it has all the necessary plugs needed to interface with the car without cutting the original factory wiring. This will have you completely unplug the factory amp from the car (you can even remove it to reduce weight). On that note, the warning chimes, door open, back-up warning, low fuel warning, ding-dongs etc. will now be re-directed to the speaker inside the gauge cluster because the Can-Bus is no longer connected to the factory amp. This is perfectly acceptable and doesn't impair the function of Sync or voice navigation as those sounds will still play through the new stereo system.
In the first diagram, ACM is the head unit and DSP module is the factory amplifier.
"CHIMES" should be replaced with the word "REAR" on pins 1,2,5,6 of C2385A. (typo in the service manual).
Pins 3,4,7,8 on C2385A are the FRONT audio signals
Pins 1,2,5,6 are REAR audio signals. All are low-level 2.7V RMS.
Ignore the noise cancellation signal lines, we won't use them.
IMPORTANT: If you are going to run the signals to the back of the car use the drivers side and make sure they are twisted pair and shielded for noise immunity. The outputs of the head unit are balanced for noise immunity but still require shielding.
Once you have your signals going into your aftermarket amplifier or DSP, it's up to you how you handle routing of the signals to power the # of channels (speakers) that your install requires. I couldn't possible cover all the options here.
Run all your speaker wire outputs from your amplifier up the drivers side of the car to the grey (C2385B) and brown (C2385C) connectors. Regular speaker wire "zip-cord" or Metra 9 conductor speaker cable work well for this. Make sure you run enough wires for all speakers.
The door midrange and the A-pillar tweeters are wired in parallel at some point under the dash. Best way to handle this is to use the brown C2385C factory connector for the door midrange and run new wires for your tweeters to your amplifier.
Getting it on: Note that the "Audio enable" from the ACM is only 6V. Many aftermarket amps have problems turning on with anything less than 7V. (Thanks Ford!) You will need a PAC TR4 to provide 12V from the 6V enable line, or tap into the BLUE/WHT wire in the trunk lid harness. That wire provides 12V to the rear camera circuit when the car is in ACC or RUN mode and that can be used to turn on your aftermarket system.
EDIT: Corrected tweeter wire colors.
Simplified diagram of the audio system. "AUDIO AMPLIFIER" is the factory amp/dsp unit.
Hopefully this info will help out anyone looking at upgrading the system in their car.
12 speaker system would already have a sub woofer in the trunk. The info in this post should still apply if planning on replacing the OEM sub with an aftermarket version. I.E. replacing the sub driver, and bypassing the amp on the back of the subwoofer enclosure.
Sponsored
Last edited:
