Wiring guide for NON B&O premium audio systems. No LOC required.

yonson

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Ok, figured out a couple things. First I didn't even need the TR4 as the factory signal is enough to turn on my amp, however it still pops it's just instant instead of delayed. The rear camera signal pops as well, so that's out too. Hoping that it was a delay thing I tried waiting a few seconds after turning the ignition on before I put the fuse back in the TR4 and that didn't help either, still pops. It would be nice if the manufacturers could mute the outputs for like 5 seconds on turn on to avoid this completely.

 

FreePenguin

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Ok, figured out a couple things. First I didn't even need the TR4 as the factory signal is enough to turn on my amp, however it still pops it's just instant instead of delayed. The rear camera signal pops as well, so that's out too. Hoping that it was a delay thing I tried waiting a few seconds after turning the ignition on before I put the fuse back in the TR4 and that didn't help either, still pops. It would be nice if the manufacturers could mute the outputs for like 5 seconds on turn on to avoid this completely.
My offer stands. It worked for me. Let me know via pm one day. I keep notifications off on forum qoute etc.

It fixed my issue entirely. I hated my woofer

Another issue I had before. For me. When you unlock door. The car actually wakes up. And can cause sub pop even when you aren’t in car. Found out when I unlocked car one day and pop! The screen lights up and the signal woke my sensing amp up everytime

That’s when I said enough is enough, eventually found wavtech from crutchfield customer service

If it doesn’t work for you, feel free to send it back. I just ask for like 5 bucks off for me shipping it to ya for refund
 

yonson

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My offer stands. It worked for me. Let me know via pm one day. I keep notifications off on forum qoute etc.

It fixed my issue entirely. I hated my woofer

Another issue I had before. For me. When you unlock door. The car actually wakes up. And can cause sub pop even when you aren’t in car. Found out when I unlocked car one day and pop! The screen lights up and the signal woke my sensing amp up everytime

That’s when I said enough is enough, eventually found wavtech from crutchfield customer service

If it doesn’t work for you, feel free to send it back. I just ask for like 5 bucks off for me shipping it to ya for refund
Thanks for the offer, however I think it's something in the amp itself causing it. I put a meter on the remote wire and when I key on there is definitely a delay (which is the TR4), before there is voltage present, then there is another delay after that of about a second or so when the pop occurs. I think I have a solution, but I need to get in touch with an AudioControl engineer to see if they will implement it.
 

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Thanks for the offer, however I think it's something in the amp itself causing it. I put a meter on the remote wire and when I key on there is definitely a delay (which is the TR4), before there is voltage present, then there is another delay after that of about a second or so when the pop occurs. I think I have a solution, but I need to get in touch with an AudioControl engineer to see if they will implement it.
I'm sure you've done this, but I would double-check the ground. It may be good enough to run the amp, but not good enough to have a clean power-up. Be sure to scrape the paint wherever you connect your amp's ground wire. My 2 cents. I haven't had any issues, using a cheap Soundstream amp and a TR4 from the old factory amp wiring. Good luck!
 

yonson

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I'm sure you've done this, but I would double-check the ground. It may be good enough to run the amp, but not good enough to have a clean power-up. Be sure to scrape the paint wherever you connect your amp's ground wire. My 2 cents. I haven't had any issues, using a cheap Soundstream amp and a TR4 from the old factory amp wiring. Good luck!
Did you remove the factory DSP?

I haven't double checked it, however when I first chose that spot (one of the seat mount bolts) I did compare the resistance from it to the negative battery post vs. the factory ground point behind the passenger side panel and they had the same resistance, and yes I removed the paint when I did it.
 


FreePenguin

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Did you remove the factory DSP?

I haven't double checked it, however when I first chose that spot (one of the seat mount bolts) I did compare the resistance from it to the negative battery post vs. the factory ground point behind the passenger side panel and they had the same resistance, and yes I removed the paint when I did it.
I used the passenger rear seatbelt bolt. Worked like a charm.
 

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Well, AudioControl hasn't gotten back to me, but I think after doing some further research and testing that the issue is being caused by the capacitors on the tweeters I'm using for protection (active setup) The pop only comes through the tweeters, so I've got some PTC resistors on the way to replace the caps and hopefully that fixes the issue. I'll definitely be testing them BEFORE I put the a pillars back on, as they are a PITA.
 
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StangTime

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That is a big reason why I don't like to use tweeter protectors. I know there's a risk blowing them if you mess up. Just being careful and double check your wiring and settings before turning on the system after installing or changes.
 

yonson

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That is a big reason why I don't like to use tweeter protectors. I know there's a risk blowing them if you mess up. Just being careful and double check your wiring and settings before turning on the system after installing or changes.
Yeah, I just don't like the idea of being out the replacement cost of the tweeters if something crazy did happen.
 

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@StangTime great write up! I just found your post as I'm looking to upgrade the speakers in my '15 GT Convertible. I have already put a Kenwood DMX9707S head unit in as I wanted Apple Car Play and Android Auto out of the gate when I picked my car up. Given the Sync system in the 15's was the older version, I knew going with a new head unit was the first step I needed to take. I've also put in a Kicker CX mono amp to a Kenwood 10" sub enclosure in the trunk. But I've never done anything with Forscan tweaks and I've not replaced any of the factory speakers or factory amp. I'm still not happy with the sound from the car, and find it to be "pinched" and just not a full and non-fatiguing sound. So your write up is great and definitely points me in some good directions to go as I look to replace the factory speakers and hopefully produce a much better sound overall.

A couple of questions...

1. Having installed a new Kenwood head unit, but still using the factory amp for my 9 speaker factory system, would you recommend just going direct from the head unit to a new amp or dsp and then out to the speakers? Would you still use the factory speaker wiring from the harness by the factory amp or run new wiring into the door, a-pillar and possibly rear speaker locations? I didn't cut anything when I installed the Kenwood, but rather used adapters I picked up for everything. So factory connectors are all intact at this point. I also installed an iDatalink Maestro to keep steering wheel and dash controls intact, as well as well as engine gauge and climate control interfacing. It all works great. But I'm wondering if I just do all new wiring with a new amp or use some of the factory wiring still?

2. For the Hertz speaker kit you installed in your front positions did you just eliminate the crossover that came in the kit and run your amp direct to your tweeters up top and woofers in the door let the DSP unit you installed handle it all?

3. I see they make a 3 way kit as well with a 3" mid speaker. Any thoughts on possibly using that kit vs the 2 way kit you used? I see it's quite a bit more cost, but just wondered if it might be worth it.

4. Since I am using the factory amp at this point, will the Forscan eq tweak offer some immediate help before I do anything with an aftermarket amp swap? I assume so given the dsp is still in play. Or does the factory head unit really control all of that and the Forscan adjustments therefore won't do much if that is gone?

5. I assume disconnecting the center speaker would be a good option for whatever I choose to do elsewhere? Any downside to it?

Appreciate your post and any insight you can offer! As you indicated out of the gate, there are just lots of random posts and videos around the web, along with lots of mis-information. So it's very helpful to see a clear and concise post that brings solid information together for others, like me, who are desiring an upgrade to the sub-par audio system Ford put in most of the Mustangs. I want a system I can truly enjoy when I'm just cruising, and this is a car I'm not getting rid of till I die, or it dies. So I want to do it right. Thanks!
 
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You can wire the RCAs from your Kenwood headunit. Still you need the harness for speaker wire integration, so it’s up to you.
 
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StangTime

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@StangTime great write up! I just found your post as I'm looking to upgrade the speakers in my '15 GT Convertible. I have already put a Kenwood DMX907S head unit in as I wanted Apple Car Play and Android Auto out of the gate when I picked my car up. Given the Sync system in the 15's was the older version, I knew going with a new head unit was the first step I needed to take. I've also put in a Kicker CX mono amp to a Kenwood 10" sub enclosure in the trunk. But I've never done anything with Forscan tweaks and I've not replaced any of the factory speakers or factory amp. I'm still not happy with the sound from the car, and find it to be "pinched" and just not a full and non-fatiguing sound. So your write up is great and definitely points me in some good directions to go as I look to replace the factory speakers and hopefully produce a much better sound overall.

A couple of questions...

1. Having installed a new Kenwood head unit, but still using the factory amp for my 9 speaker factory system, would you recommend just going direct from the head unit to a new amp or dsp and then out to the speakers? Would you still use the factory speaker wiring from the harness by the factory amp or run new wiring into the door, a-pillar and possibly rear speaker locations? I didn't cut anything when I installed the Kenwood, but rather used adapters I picked up for everything. So factory connectors are all intact at this point. I also installed an iDatalink Maestro to keep steering wheel and dash controls intact, as well as well as engine gauge and climate control interfacing. It all works great. But I'm wondering if I just do all new wiring with a new amp or use some of the factory wiring still?

2. For the Hertz speaker kit you installed in your front positions did you just eliminate the crossover that came in the kit and run your amp direct to your tweeters up top and woofers in the door let the DSP unit you installed handle it all?

3. I see they make a 3 way kit as well with a 3" mid speaker. Any thoughts on possibly using that kit vs the 2 way kit you used? I see it's quite a bit more cost, but just wondered if it might be worth it.

4. Since I am using the factory amp at this point, will the Forscan eq tweak offer some immediate help before I do anything with an aftermarket amp swap? I assume so given the dsp is still in play. Or does the factory head unit really control all of that and the Forscan adjustments therefore won't do much if that is gone?

5. I assume disconnecting the center speaker would be a good option for whatever I choose to do elsewhere? Any downside to it?

Appreciate your post and any insight you can offer! As you indicated out of the gate, there are just lots of random posts and videos around the web, along with lots of mis-information. So it's very helpful to see a clear and concise post that brings solid information together for others, like me, who are desiring an upgrade to the sub-par audio system Ford put in most of the Mustangs. I want a system I can truly enjoy when I'm just cruising, and this is a car I'm not getting rid of till I die, or it dies. So I want to do it right. Thanks!
1. Yes, run the RCA out from the Kenwood to a new DSP or DSP/amp combo. Don't try and use the factory amp. It's underpowered for a good audio system.

2. Yes. I didn't use the passive cross overs. Each driver is connected to it's own amplifier channel. All crossovers are done in the DSP.

3. I didn't use the 3 way Hertz for cost and added complexity reasons. Active 3-way requires 6 amplifier channels, additional wiring, and additional channels for the sub woofer(s). I was trying to keep it under budget and make it sound as good as possible. If you do a 2-way system, seal up the 3.5" speaker holes with Dynamat or something similar.

4. No point doing Forscan as you are not using the module that is responsible for the EQ change (the ACM).

5. Disconnection of the poor quality center speaker is a must do. There are no down-sides to doing this free improvement.

Hopefully that answers your questions and if not, let's hash it out here and get your system sounding it's best.
 

luv2fly3

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1. Yes, run the RCA out from the Kenwood to a new DSP or DSP/amp combo. Don't try and use the factory amp. It's underpowered for a good audio system.

2. Yes. I didn't use the passive cross overs. Each driver is connected to it's own amplifier channel. All crossovers are done in the DSP.

3. I didn't use the 3 way Hertz for cost and added complexity reasons. Active 3-way requires 6 amplifier channels, additional wiring, and additional channels for the sub woofer(s). I was trying to keep it under budget and make it sound as good as possible. If you do a 2-way system, seal up the 3.5" speaker holes with Dynamat or something similar.

4. No point doing Forscan as you are not using the module that is responsible for the EQ change (the ACM).

5. Disconnection of the poor quality center speaker is a must do. There are no down-sides to doing this free improvement.

Hopefully that answers your questions and if not, let's hash it out here and get your system sounding it's best.
All great info! I really appreciate you offering that insight and direction. I ordered the interface to try Forscan already, so I may just do that temporarily before I get a new amp. But I definitely think the 2 way design you used makes sense coming from an amp fed directly from the Kenwood.
 

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@StangTime great write up! I just found your post as I'm looking to upgrade the speakers in my '15 GT Convertible. I have already put a Kenwood DMX907S head unit in as I wanted Apple Car Play and Android Auto out of the gate when I picked my car up. Given the Sync system in the 15's was the older version, I knew going with a new head unit was the first step I needed to take. I've also put in a Kicker CX mono amp to a Kenwood 10" sub enclosure in the trunk. But I've never done anything with Forscan tweaks and I've not replaced any of the factory speakers or factory amp. I'm still not happy with the sound from the car, and find it to be "pinched" and just not a full and non-fatiguing sound. So your write up is great and definitely points me in some good directions to go as I look to replace the factory speakers and hopefully produce a much better sound overall.

A couple of questions...

1. Having installed a new Kenwood head unit, but still using the factory amp for my 9 speaker factory system, would you recommend just going direct from the head unit to a new amp or dsp and then out to the speakers? Would you still use the factory speaker wiring from the harness by the factory amp or run new wiring into the door, a-pillar and possibly rear speaker locations? I didn't cut anything when I installed the Kenwood, but rather used adapters I picked up for everything. So factory connectors are all intact at this point. I also installed an iDatalink Maestro to keep steering wheel and dash controls intact, as well as well as engine gauge and climate control interfacing. It all works great. But I'm wondering if I just do all new wiring with a new amp or use some of the factory wiring still?

2. For the Hertz speaker kit you installed in your front positions did you just eliminate the crossover that came in the kit and run your amp direct to your tweeters up top and woofers in the door let the DSP unit you installed handle it all?

3. I see they make a 3 way kit as well with a 3" mid speaker. Any thoughts on possibly using that kit vs the 2 way kit you used? I see it's quite a bit more cost, but just wondered if it might be worth it.

4. Since I am using the factory amp at this point, will the Forscan eq tweak offer some immediate help before I do anything with an aftermarket amp swap? I assume so given the dsp is still in play. Or does the factory head unit really control all of that and the Forscan adjustments therefore won't do much if that is gone?

5. I assume disconnecting the center speaker would be a good option for whatever I choose to do elsewhere? Any downside to it?

Appreciate your post and any insight you can offer! As you indicated out of the gate, there are just lots of random posts and videos around the web, along with lots of mis-information. So it's very helpful to see a clear and concise post that brings solid information together for others, like me, who are desiring an upgrade to the sub-par audio system Ford put in most of the Mustangs. I want a system I can truly enjoy when I'm just cruising, and this is a car I'm not getting rid of till I die, or it dies. So I want to do it right. Thanks!
I agree with @StangTime 100%. However, I wanted to keep the factory wiring. The wiring for the tweeter comes from the door 3.5, so I soldered in a capacitor rather than using the Hertz crossover. This is the one that I used:
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-PMPC-12-12uF-250V-Precision-Audio-Capacitor-027-246
This should be similar to the Hertz crossover, with the consideration the tweeter is wired in series with my 3.5 kicker door speaker. Note the size of the capacitor is the size of your thumb, so you will need to consider placement in the a-pillar before wiring it in. Also, note that I'm only 40w/channel @ 4ohms. If I had a bigger amp, I would upgrade the speaker wiring, imho.
 

Wickedluis

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There's a lot of info scattered around the forums. Some correct, some not. The biggest mistake I see people making is trying to use a line output converter (LOC) to add an aftermarket system. They aren't required, add expense, and raise the noise floor. If you use the right signal source for your system and do some careful wiring, a LOC is not required. If only adding a sub to your existing factory stereo, that is the only case where you will use a LOC. Not covered in this post. Lot's of info on that elsewhere. This doesn't cover B&O systems. The wiring for these is different and I do not have info on that.


First step: Flatten the output of the head unit so that there is no funky molestation of the audio signal. We want a nice clean unaltered signal to feed our system with.
Use Forscan for this. If you don't know how, use the search function. Plenty of info on it here already.
There is one code to change in module 727 (Note: This code has been confirmed to work for 2021 models. If someone has different results please let me know):

727-01-02 00xx - First two digits we want set to 0. This disables any EQ Processing, bass roll-off etc. (tone controls will still function as normal)

Wiring it up: Study the diagrams. Everything you need is here.
Signals from the head unit are 2.7V peak at maximum volume on the dial. Ford did us one good thing on the head units, they give us unclipped signal all the way to max. So you can use the whole volume knob range if you want.

If your goal is to remove the factory amp I recommend the idatalink HRN-AR-FO3 harness, it has all the necessary plugs needed to interface with the car without cutting the original factory wiring. This will have you completely unplug the factory amp from the car (you can even remove it to reduce weight). On that note, the warning chimes, door open, back-up warning, low fuel warning, ding-dongs etc. will now be re-directed to the speaker inside the gauge cluster because the Can-Bus is no longer connected to the factory amp. This is perfectly acceptable and doesn't impair the function of Sync or voice navigation as those sounds will still play through the new stereo system.

In the first diagram, ACM is the head unit and DSP module is the factory amplifier.
"CHIMES" should be replaced with the word "REAR" on pins 1,2,5,6 of C2385A. (typo in the service manual).
Pins 3,4,7,8 on C2385A are the FRONT audio signals
Pins 1,2,5,6 are REAR audio signals. All are low-level 2.7V peak.
Ignore the noise cancellation signal lines, we won't use them.

IMPORTANT: If you are going to run the signals to the back of the car use the drivers side and make sure they are twisted pair and shielded for noise immunity. The outputs of the head unit are balanced for noise immunity but still require shielding.
ACM to APIM connections.png


Once you have your signals going into your aftermarket amplifier or DSP, it's up to you how you handle routing of the signals to power the # of channels (speakers) that your install requires. I couldn't possible cover all the options here.

Run all your speaker wire outputs from your amplifier up the drivers side of the car to the grey (C2385B) and brown (C2385C) connectors. Regular speaker wire "zip-cord" or Metra 9 conductor speaker cable work well for this. Make sure you run enough wires for all speakers.
The door midrange and the A-pillar tweeters are wired in parallel at some point under the dash. Best way to handle this is to use the brown C2385C factory connector for the door midrange and run new wires for your tweeters to your amplifier.

Getting it on: Note that the "Audio enable" from the ACM is only 6V. Many aftermarket amps have problems turning on with anything less than 7V. (Thanks Ford!) You will need a PAC TR4 to provide 12V from the 6V enable line, or tap into the BLUE/WHT wire in the trunk lid harness. That wire provides 12V to the rear camera circuit when the car is in ACC or RUN mode and that can be used to turn on your aftermarket system.

Mustang 9 speaker wiring.PNG

EDIT: Corrected tweeter wire colors.

Simplified diagram of the audio system. "AUDIO AMPLIFIER" is the factory amp/dsp unit.
9 Speaker Wiring.png


Hopefully this info will help out anyone looking at upgrading the system in their car.

12 speaker system would already have a sub woofer in the trunk. The info in this post should still apply if planning on replacing the OEM sub with an aftermarket version. I.E. replacing the sub driver, and bypassing the amp on the back of the subwoofer enclosure.
Where did you get these diagrams? I just purchased a 2022 Gt with the 9 speaker system and I am wondering if this is the same set up. I cannot find a plug and play anywhere for my 2022.
 

 
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