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Wiring guide for NON B&O premium audio systems. No LOC required.

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It is. Running the power wire cleanly is really the most difficult part. A few notes (from my '21 9 speaker LOC sub install).

1) I would use posi-taps next time. The speaker wires are very small and braided and getting a tap in there... well posi-taps is the best way and the cleanest.

2) I would use a remote turn on (in the bundle in the trunk) not the amp line level "audio sensing" as a remote turn on. I tried this on my Jetta and at various times the car will check the speakers sending a false on signal (when you unlock the car for instance) and I got a "thump" from the sub, so I would use the remote wire.
Speaker detection can be disabled in Forscan. The BLU/WHT wire in the upper trunk harness is a good remote-on for most people and it's easy to hook into. There is a bit of a catch with it though... that is if you like to sit in the car and listen to music, you will have to make sure that the accessory power is on.
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Can I run an HCP4D as plug and play with HRN -AR-FO3 not dsp, in factory amp location?

I will may add powered amp or separate sub amp later.

Many thanks!
Yes. Just twist the wire pairs for the signal inputs and attach these to the ends to plug into the amp inputs: RCA terminals
With this amp you can do an active 2-way system with it's built-in electronic crossovers. Or a higher power 4 channel system using passive crossovers. I would prefer active for better sound quality and not bother with rear speakers. But, you can do either one.
In the future, run the pre-out signals back to your sub amp.
 
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Great! Thanks!
Forgot to mention... use a switched 12v power source (like Fuse23) to use for remote turn on. Otherwise you will need to wire in a PAC-TR-4 to change the 6V audio enable signal to 12v that the amp will require to turn on.
 
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That's the amp I have... the HCP5D. It's too big to fit under the dash but fits nicely in the spare tire area mounted to a board. It has all the power I need to really pound with a good 2ohm sub. I highly recommend it.
20210428_205622.jpg


However, if you want to use rear speakers too, you could build a system with 2 HCP4D amps. You would have 75w x4 for the front, 75w x2 for the rear and 260w for a sub (all 4ohm ratings).
 

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This thread should be a sticky and the headline changed from "9 speaker system" to "premium audio system pre facelift".
The latter because some things changed with the switch to B&O system.
 

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This thread should be a sticky and the headline changed from "9 speaker system" to "premium audio system pre facelift".
The latter because some things changed with the switch to B&O system.
Or how about "Wiring guide for NON B&O premium audio systems. No LOC required."?
I know the Forscan codes changed after 2020.
 
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Good info. Nice install.

It's for a vert. Will the HCP4D fit where is OE amp is? I don't want a trunk install. I may go for an underdash powered sub....
I can't say for sure. I pulled out my OEM amp. It was mounted on a bracket and you would need to re-use that bracket to mount any other amp there. A few other member have done it. Have a look at these threads:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/helix-p-six-amplifier.81102/
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/jl-audio-600-6-install.58862/
 
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Good point on the forscan 2021 + would be nice to know that haha
I edited the original post to bring this to attention. If I find the new Forscan codes I will post them.
 
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Very generous thank you so much! If you have the Ford Amp dimensions that would be very helpful!
The (NON-B&O) OEM amp is 7.5"H x 6"W x 2"D not including the mounting bracket.
s-l1600.jpg


There is empty space at the top of the amp and to the right. It's tight working in this area though. You need to have contortionist skills.
 

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There is empty space at the top of the amp and to the right. It's tight working in this area though. You need to have contortionist skills.
I will second that comment. I just installed a JBL DSP4086. It was a tight fit. With all of the wiring, be sure to not cut any slack until you are sure the kick panel will fit. And fwiw, I used StangTime's instructions on the first page of this thread, and, thanks to him, it worked like a champ (THANK YOU!). If I get some time, I'll do a quick writeup this weekend - I've been busy at the chiropractor from being under the dash.

Amp.jpg
 

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I will second that comment. I just installed a JBL DSP4086. It was a tight fit. With all of the wiring, be sure to not cut any slack until you are sure the kick panel will fit. And fwiw, I used StangTime's instructions on the first page of this thread, and, thanks to him, it worked like a champ (THANK YOU!). If I get some time, I'll do a quick writeup this weekend - I've been busy at the chiropractor from being under the dash.

Amp.jpg
Nicely done! Your ears will thank your back later.
 

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I will second that comment. I just installed a JBL DSP4086. It was a tight fit. With all of the wiring, be sure to not cut any slack until you are sure the kick panel will fit. And fwiw, I used StangTime's instructions on the first page of this thread, and, thanks to him, it worked like a champ (THANK YOU!). If I get some time, I'll do a quick writeup this weekend - I've been busy at the chiropractor from being under the dash.

Amp.jpg
I did the exact same amp in the exact same place! Align the top right with the original amp and be sure not to exceed the height and you're good to go although it's tight.

20211204_135713.jpg

20211204_135730.jpg

20211204_135824.jpg
 

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thumbnail_IMG_6190.jpeg



This is what it looked like for me changing the ACM setting with Forscan on my 2021. As you can see its very similar to other years. Thank goodness because I was very worried. I couldn't find a post or video with the 2021 EQ change process. The first four digits were 0100.... I changed it to 0000. After I clicked the WRITE button, my radio reset. Seems like it worked as my stereo sounds better. Saying much better would be a stretch as Im still on factory speakers, minus the center speaker already disconnected. If any of the more knowledgeable folks on here can see an issue with this please LMK.

I will replace the door speakers soon. There doesn't seem to be a consensus favorite on what kind. Im not looking to rewire the the front speakers or add an additional amplifier for the front. Would it be worth adding Infinity Reference speakers?
 

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This is what it looked like for me changing the ACM setting with Forscan on my 2021. As you can see its very similar to other years. Thank goodness because I was very worried. I couldn't find a post or video with the 2021 EQ change process. The first four digits were 0100.... I changed it to 0000. After I clicked the WRITE button, my radio reset. Seems like it worked as my stereo sounds better. Saying much better would be a stretch as Im still on factory speakers, minus the center speaker already disconnected. If any of the more knowledgeable folks on here can see an issue with this please LMK.

I will replace the door speakers soon. There doesn't seem to be a consensus favorite on what kind. Im not looking to rewire the the front speakers or add an additional amplifier for the front. Would it be worth adding Infinity Reference speakers?
I ran into the same thing. Appears there's an extra row in the 21 GTs than what I've seen in other posts, YouTubes etc. Made same changes and noticed an improvement.

I just added a 3.5" Hertz mid-range in the doors to start. Big improvement there. I'm going to install a sub next and that might be enough for me.
 

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Good, seems like we did alright. Im getting all the supplies for a sub/amp install too. From the info in this thread and some others I think I can get it done. Ive bought a used JL stealthbox and new JL 500/1 amp. Plan on getting the signal from the rear speaker using posi tap connectors with JL 2-speaker output converter RCAs. 4 gauge power, ground wiring and JL bass control knob. Also bought some sound deadening materials. There goes my weekend right? Probably look at door speaker upgrades after that.
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