Wiring guide for NON B&O premium audio systems. No LOC required.

MD18EcoStang

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Any 8channel DSP will do.
„Cheap“ new options are the Dayton DSP or the Rockford Fosgate DSR1.
Higher on the list, but also more expensive and advanced are JL Audio TwK88, all Helix DSPs, all Mosconi DSPs, Audison and others.
If you want to buy one look out for an installer with experience in setting things up and go with their recommendation.

Or learn it yourself, which will take some time. You need a USB mic for that, the most popular choices are the MiniDSP UMIK microphones.
Software you need is RoomEQ Wizard (short: REW). This software can be intimidating at first due to all the options, but there are literally thousands of how tos regarding REW available. It just takes time to learn on how to get repeatable and consistent measurements, learn the DSP software of choice and so on.

So letting an installer do all this is totally viable, if the installer knows what he is doing.
Thank you. Basically, if I can't figure it out myself, it ain't gonna happen! So, I'll do some research. Appreciate your reply!

 

Evolvd

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Any 8channel DSP will do.
„Cheap“ new options are the Dayton DSP or the Rockford Fosgate DSR1.
Higher on the list, but also more expensive and advanced are JL Audio TwK88, all Helix DSPs, all Mosconi DSPs, Audison and others.
If you want to buy one look out for an installer with experience in setting things up and go with their recommendation.

Or learn it yourself, which will take some time. You need a USB mic for that, the most popular choices are the MiniDSP UMIK microphones.
Software you need is RoomEQ Wizard (short: REW). This software can be intimidating at first due to all the options, but there are literally thousands of how tos regarding REW available. It just takes time to learn on how to get repeatable and consistent measurements, learn the DSP software of choice and so on.

So letting an installer do all this is totally viable, if the installer knows what he is doing.
Do you know if the UMIK works with JL Audio’s Tün software?
 

Cathul

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Yes it does according to one of the JL videos. Real time phase measurements are not possible though.
 

luv2fly3

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Hey again guys. I’m making progress on my speaker/amp install and had another question.

For the remote power on circuit from my Kenwood, I need to power my two amps up when the radio is on. I am also building the system so I can easily add a third amp and processor down the road if I want to go active for my component speakers. So given I could have as many as 4 devices needing remote power on capability, I need to incorporate a relay. I’m just wondering if any of you have done that and have any pics or recommendations to do so? I read that a Bosch relay with a diode is best to help prevent kickback voltages. But I also red that solid state relays can avoid that. Just wondering what you all are doing to power multiple devices from your remote power on circuits and if you have any thoughts on using relays and whether to go solid state, standard with a diode or just a simple basic relay?
 
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StangTime

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Hey again guys. I’m making progress on my speaker/amp install and had another question.

For the remote power on circuit from my Kenwood, I need to power my two amps up when the radio is on. I am also building the system so I can easily add a third amp and processor down the road if I want to go active for my component speakers. So given I could have as many as 4 devices needing remote power on capability, I need to incorporate a relay. I’m just wondering if any of you have done that and have any pics or recommendations to do so? I read that a Bosch relay with a diode is best to help prevent kickback voltages. But I also red that solid state relays can avoid that. Just wondering what you all are doing to power multiple devices from your remote power on circuits and if you have any thoughts on using relays and whether to go solid state, standard with a diode or just a simple basic relay?
I would dig into the spec sheets for your head unit and amplifiers and see what it says for these outputs and inputs operation. Depending on the current output on the remote on lead, you may not need a relay. Most amplifiers draw such little current for remote-on. On the other hand using a relay is not without it's perils. The draw from the relay might be more than the draw from multiple amps. Plus if you connect the diode wrong or it goes open, there is a good chance of damaging the remote-on signal line.
 


Evolvd

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Hey again guys. I’m making progress on my speaker/amp install and had another question.

For the remote power on circuit from my Kenwood, I need to power my two amps up when the radio is on. I am also building the system so I can easily add a third amp and processor down the road if I want to go active for my component speakers. So given I could have as many as 4 devices needing remote power on capability, I need to incorporate a relay. I’m just wondering if any of you have done that and have any pics or recommendations to do so? I read that a Bosch relay with a diode is best to help prevent kickback voltages. But I also red that solid state relays can avoid that. Just wondering what you all are doing to power multiple devices from your remote power on circuits and if you have any thoughts on using relays and whether to go solid state, standard with a diode or just a simple basic relay?
I am doing the same thing you’re talking about. I found a 30 amp 4-pin relay with built in fly-back diode to protect the circuit. Car Audio Fabrication has this video covering how to wire a relay correctly


I’m going to use mine for remote turn-on and LED lighting.
 

luv2fly3

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I am doing the same thing you’re talking about. I found a 30 amp 4-pin relay with built in fly-back diode to protect the circuit. Car Audio Fabrication has this video covering how to wire a relay correctly


I’m going to use mine for remote turn-on and LED lighting.
Great! Thanks for that lead. Do you have a link to the relay you sourced?
 

luv2fly3

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You guys have been such a great help!

Got the relay ordered, and am now preparing to do some sound deadening material installation. I have a roll of Soundskin Pro material for my doors and Kilmat pieces for the trunk and a few other areas. I'm wondering about the doors specifically and whether to remove the vapor shield on it to apply some material inside the door. I have seen that covering the large access hole left without the vapor barrier, with some material is also done sometimes. But because the factory vapor barrier on the Mustang door is indented pretty far into the interior of the door, I'm wondering if that would be a good idea or not. Or maybe reapplying the vapor barrier and just applying sound material on any metal flat spots? But I'm not sure how to reapply the vapor barrier if I pull it off, assuming the adhesive will be damaged in doing so.

Do any of you have any thoughts or even pics of any sound deadening application you did on your doors? Or what would you all suggest?
 

Evolvd

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You guys have been such a great help!

Got the relay ordered, and am now preparing to do some sound deadening material installation. I have a roll of Soundskin Pro material for my doors and Kilmat pieces for the trunk and a few other areas. I'm wondering about the doors specifically and whether to remove the vapor shield on it to apply some material inside the door. I have seen that covering the large access hole left without the vapor barrier, with some material is also done sometimes. But because the factory vapor barrier on the Mustang door is indented pretty far into the interior of the door, I'm wondering if that would be a good idea or not. Or maybe reapplying the vapor barrier and just applying sound material on any metal flat spots? But I'm not sure how to reapply the vapor barrier if I pull it off, assuming the adhesive will be damaged in doing so.

Do any of you have any thoughts or even pics of any sound deadening application you did on your doors? Or what would you all suggest?
I removed the vapor barriers. The sealant is pretty gooey so use ice cubes to harden it up a little and it’ll separate easier. Try to keep as much of it on the plastic so you can reuse it later. You are correct about reusing it, the map pocket in the door panel protrudes into the door and the vapor barrier has a relief for it.
I covered as much of the exterior door skin as I could reach, which was pretty much all of it lol. Then I covered the entire room interior panel as well.
Some tips:
1. Use clear vinyl transfer tape to make templates. Lay the vinyl over the door and use a silver sharpie to mark all the holes for clips, bolts, nuts, etc.
2. Work in sections, don’t try to use one giant sheet to cover the whole door.
3. Before you remove the door panels use masking tape to identify the edges of the panels so you know where to start the edge of your sound deadener. In fact you’ll want to move in a little since the outside edge has a step and the deadener will push it out some…you’ll see what I mean
4. Save your scraps, you can use them in tight spaces
5. A good pair of shears and an Olfa knife are essential. Also a set of leather punches work great for making holes in the deadener for panel clips and screws
6. When reinstalling the vapor barrier use a heat gun set at 200 degrees to soften up the sealant, it’ll still better. A hairdryer on high should work too but will take longer.

Feel free to PM me if you have questions. I just finished both of my doors and the difference is amazing.

CF4F12F7-A290-4D1B-98A9-B59686D1E0D4.jpeg
 

luv2fly3

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I removed the vapor barriers. The sealant is pretty gooey so use ice cubes to harden it up a little and it’ll separate easier. Try to keep as much of it on the plastic so you can reuse it later. You are correct about reusing it, the map pocket in the door panel protrudes into the door and the vapor barrier has a relief for it.
I covered as much of the exterior door skin as I could reach, which was pretty much all of it lol. Then I covered the entire room interior panel as well.
Some tips:
1. Use clear vinyl transfer tape to make templates. Lay the vinyl over the door and use a silver sharpie to mark all the holes for clips, bolts, nuts, etc.
2. Work in sections, don’t try to use one giant sheet to cover the whole door.
3. Before you remove the door panels use masking tape to identify the edges of the panels so you know where to start the edge of your sound deadener. In fact you’ll want to move in a little since the outside edge has a step and the deadener will push it out some…you’ll see what I mean
4. Save your scraps, you can use them in tight spaces
5. A good pair of shears and an Olfa knife are essential. Also a set of leather punches work great for making holes in the deadener for panel clips and screws
6. When reinstalling the vapor barrier use a heat gun set at 200 degrees to soften up the sealant, it’ll still better. A hairdryer on high should work too but will take longer.

Feel free to PM me if you have questions. I just finished both of my doors and the difference is amazing.

CF4F12F7-A290-4D1B-98A9-B59686D1E0D4.jpeg
That's awesome. Thanks for the info and pic Brian!
 

yonson

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Any 8channel DSP will do.
„Cheap“ new options are the Dayton DSP or the Rockford Fosgate DSR1.
Higher on the list, but also more expensive and advanced are JL Audio TwK88, all Helix DSPs, all Mosconi DSPs, Audison and others.
If you want to buy one look out for an installer with experience in setting things up and go with their recommendation.

Or learn it yourself, which will take some time. You need a USB mic for that, the most popular choices are the MiniDSP UMIK microphones.
Software you need is RoomEQ Wizard (short: REW). This software can be intimidating at first due to all the options, but there are literally thousands of how tos regarding REW available. It just takes time to learn on how to get repeatable and consistent measurements, learn the DSP software of choice and so on.

So letting an installer do all this is totally viable, if the installer knows what he is doing.
Which Mosconi DSP do you have?

I bought a D2 100.4 DSP for my F-150 and I can't figure out how to set the time alignment correctly. Everything else works great, but when I set the time alignment like I did in my Mustang with my Audio Control (set the distance for each channel) this makes the imaging way off. Their help video is pretty basic and just shows you what to adjust, which is obvious and I can't really find any information that tells you how to correctly set it.
 

Evolvd

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Which Mosconi DSP do you have?

I bought a D2 100.4 DSP for my F-150 and I can't figure out how to set the time alignment correctly. Everything else works great, but when I set the time alignment like I did in my Mustang with my Audio Control (set the distance for each channel) this makes the imaging way off. Their help video is pretty basic and just shows you what to adjust, which is obvious and I can't really find any information that tells you how to correctly set it.
Have you tried using REW?
 

yonson

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Have you tried using REW?
No, I used my Audio Control DM-RTA to set the levels, EQ, etc... Everything is setup except the time alignment. Right now I've just got it set by ear to get it better than it was, I would just like to know how it's suppose to be setup correctly in the Mosconi software.

Ok, after some experimenting it looks like this DSP doesn't automatically calculate the time delay just by entering in the measurements and you have to do the delay based off the speaker the furthest away and subtract the others from it. It would be nice if they let you know that in the software or their video tutorials...
 
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