Wiring guide for NON B&O premium audio systems. No LOC required.

[StangTime]

Everything is correct, except for the fact, that it's not 2.7V peak, but ~5V peak output from the ACM. ;)




And the reason why the ACM has a signal on both the positive and negative conductor is, that it's in fact just a stepped down (i.e. lowered voltage) high level Bridge Tied Load (BTL) output.
By the fact that you can reprogramm the ACM for both high- and lower level output just means that the high-level signal is stepped down from approx. 10V output to approx. 5V output. Otherwise it would have only a signal on the positive conductor and this would mean a different electrical circuit inside the ACM which is very unlikely due to the added cost that this additional circuit would generate (especially as the different signals are all sent out over the same wires in the corresponding connector, this would mean some serious reengineering of the ACM).

Frank Miketta (CTO Gladen and Mosconi) and me found that out while debugging some white noise issues in my installation with the Mosconi Pico 8/10 DSP amplifier while using the DSR1 as integration device.
We measured the voltages of both positive and negative conductor and the result was, that it's a simple BTL circuit with reduced voltage (that is then non-clipping as it's not driven into the technical limits of the circuit).
When you measure a high-level ACM you can clearly see, that at 5V output the high-level output is also not clipping, so when reprogrammed you only drive the ACM to half of its maximum output.

Pulling the DSR1 out of the signal chain and reconfiguring the Mosconi Pico 8/10 to high-level input (this amp can do high-level input with low-level signals!) almost completely removed the white noise issue in mids and tweeters in my installation.

Just for information for all of you.

That 2.7V number I found on another forum by someone who measured it on a scope. They may have confused peak voltage with RMS. So my post should actually say RMS not peak. 2.7V peak would be 1.9V RMS. Either way something is not adding up. That number still seems low. My DSP, only has high-level balanced inputs and responds to a signal voltage range of 2V to 15V RMS as posted in the specifications section. On the input gain dial 2V is max and 15V is min. During setup, the DSP has you play a provided test track at max volume. The gains on the DSP input are turned up until the signal clip LED lights start flashing. Those dials ended up at nearly max which would correspond to approximately 3V RMS. Hmmm....

In the videos you posted he is measuring a 2014 SONY ACM and getting a 5V PEAK voltage. 5V peak equals 3.5V RMS. The Sony is also measuring flat output down low whereas the system in the 2015 and up (I believe is made by Clarion) has the undefeatable bass hump at lower levels as measured by your Mosconi.

How did you measure your signals? With the Mosconi?

I'm curious about something now. If I re-program my ACM for high-level output (10V peak or 7V RMS) I can turn down the gains on the DSP input and reduce my noise floor even more. I assume there is a DC offset on the ACM outputs between the + and - signal lines when set to high-level?

All good info as we continue to learn more about these systems.

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[Cathul]

That 2.7V number I found on another forum by someone who measured it on a scope. They may have confused peak voltage with RMS. So my post should actually say RMS not peak. 2.7V peak would be 1.9V RMS. Either way something is not adding up. That number still seems low. My DSP, only has high-level balanced inputs and responds to a signal voltage range of 2V to 15V RMS as posted in the specifications section. On the input gain dial 2V is max and 15V is min. During setup, the DSP has you play a provided test track at max volume. The gains on the DSP input are turned up until the signal clip LED lights start flashing. Those dials ended up at nearly max which would correspond to approximately 3V RMS. Hmmm....

In the videos you posted he is measuring a 2014 SONY ACM and getting a 5V PEAK voltage. 5V peak equals 3.5V RMS. The Sony is also measuring flat output down low whereas the system in the 2015 and up (I believe is made by Clarion) has the undefeatable bass hump at lower levels as measured by your Mosconi.

How did you measure your signals? With the Mosconi?

I'm curious about something now. If I re-program my ACM for high-level output (10V peak or 7V RMS) I can turn down the gains on the DSP input and reduce my noise floor even more. I assume there is a DC offset on the ACM outputs between the + and - signal lines when set to high-level?

All good info as we continue to learn more about these systems.

Afaik the ACMs between 2014 and 2016 were the same. At least from the outside they look identical. I even saw an ACM from a Sony soundsystem equiped german Focus RS which is the same from the outside as my 2016 Mustang ACM, so i doubt that there are many differences.
In the videos he reprogrammed the ACM from fixed line level to highlevel and variable low level for measurements along the fixed line level that is preconfigured in a Sony soundsystem ACM.
With my ACM when measuring at volume lvl 30 (which equals the Sony fixed line output) there is no bassboost at all. Maybe it's a setting in the AsBuilt Data of the ACM, i don't know. I asked this question via private message in diymobileaudio to one of the guys there that also posted on F150forums.com, but he didn't have an answer.
For me this question is of some importance as i go to my first sound quality competition next saturday and i may have a slightly worse judging due to the non-defeatable bass boost. :(

I measured the signals with my Mosconi amp. It doesn't show voltage though or i havent found the settings to switch from dB readings to Volt settings.
Input side i always set the input gain to -2dB with a 0dB sweep as adviced by Frank Miketta. Same goes for output side after EQing all the single drivers.
According to Frank Miketta this ensures that you're not clipping input or output of the Mosconi DSP amplifiers. In the EQ section clipping is a non-issue as internally all current modern Mosconi DSPs are working with 56 bit, while input and output are only 24bit bandwith.

And the DC offset is there with my ACM when set either to high- or low-level. Only the output voltage is attenuated. That's why i had to reconfigure the jumpers inside my Mosconi for high-level signals when connecting directly to the ACM to get rid of all the noise.
Even the DSR1 doesn't mitigate all the noise, so my assumption is, that something in the DSR1 input is not 100% correctly configured by idatalink for the ACM.

 

[Wickedluis]

Depends on the actual code in the ACM. Usually it happens in the amplifier.

https://www.f150forum.com/f30/head-unit-measurments-forscan-changes-high-level-vs-low-level-467373/

Please note that these are measurements of the ACM at volume level 30. with the Mustang you have a non defeatable bass boost at lower volumes up to volume level 17-18.

After talking to Crutchfield again i was told I will have to splice into the rear spear wires of my 2022 GT , they said the harness is slightly different . He said those speakers are full range , does this sound correct?

 

[Wickedluis]

There's a lot of info scattered around the forums. Some correct, some not. The biggest mistake I see people making is trying to use a line output converter (LOC) to add an aftermarket system. They aren't required, add expense, and raise the noise floor. If you use the right signal source for your system and do some careful wiring, a LOC is not required. If only adding a sub to your existing factory stereo, that is the only case where you will use a LOC. Not covered in this post. Lot's of info on that elsewhere. This doesn't cover B&O systems. The wiring for these is different and I do not have info on that.


First step: Flatten the output of the head unit so that there is no funky molestation of the audio signal. We want a nice clean unaltered signal to feed our system with.
Use Forscan for this. If you don't know how, use the search function. Plenty of info on it here already.
There is one code to change in module 727 (Note: This code has been confirmed to work for 2021 models. If someone has different results please let me know):

727-01-02 00xx - First two digits we want set to 0. This disables any EQ Processing, bass roll-off etc. (tone controls will still function as normal)

Wiring it up: Study the diagrams. Everything you need is here.
Signals from the head unit are 2.7V peak at maximum volume on the dial. Ford did us one good thing on the head units, they give us unclipped signal all the way to max. So you can use the whole volume knob range if you want.

If your goal is to remove the factory amp I recommend the idatalink HRN-AR-FO3 harness, it has all the necessary plugs needed to interface with the car without cutting the original factory wiring. This will have you completely unplug the factory amp from the car (you can even remove it to reduce weight). On that note, the warning chimes, door open, back-up warning, low fuel warning, ding-dongs etc. will now be re-directed to the speaker inside the gauge cluster because the Can-Bus is no longer connected to the factory amp. This is perfectly acceptable and doesn't impair the function of Sync or voice navigation as those sounds will still play through the new stereo system.

In the first diagram, ACM is the head unit and DSP module is the factory amplifier.
"CHIMES" should be replaced with the word "REAR" on pins 1,2,5,6 of C2385A. (typo in the service manual).
Pins 3,4,7,8 on C2385A are the FRONT audio signals
Pins 1,2,5,6 are REAR audio signals. All are low-level 2.7V peak.
Ignore the noise cancellation signal lines, we won't use them.

IMPORTANT: If you are going to run the signals to the back of the car use the drivers side and make sure they are twisted pair and shielded for noise immunity. The outputs of the head unit are balanced for noise immunity but still require shielding.

Once you have your signals going into your aftermarket amplifier or DSP, it's up to you how you handle routing of the signals to power the # of channels (speakers) that your install requires. I couldn't possible cover all the options here.

Run all your speaker wire outputs from your amplifier up the drivers side of the car to the grey (C2385B) and brown (C2385C) connectors. Regular speaker wire "zip-cord" or Metra 9 conductor speaker cable work well for this. Make sure you run enough wires for all speakers.
The door midrange and the A-pillar tweeters are wired in parallel at some point under the dash. Best way to handle this is to use the brown C2385C factory connector for the door midrange and run new wires for your tweeters to your amplifier.

Getting it on: Note that the "Audio enable" from the ACM is only 6V. Many aftermarket amps have problems turning on with anything less than 7V. (Thanks Ford!) You will need a PAC TR4 to provide 12V from the 6V enable line, or tap into the BLUE/WHT wire in the trunk lid harness. That wire provides 12V to the rear camera circuit when the car is in ACC or RUN mode and that can be used to turn on your aftermarket system.

EDIT: Corrected tweeter wire colors.

Simplified diagram of the audio system. "AUDIO AMPLIFIER" is the factory amp/dsp unit.

Hopefully this info will help out anyone looking at upgrading the system in their car.

12 speaker system would already have a sub woofer in the trunk. The info in this post should still apply if planning on replacing the OEM sub with an aftermarket version. I.E. replacing the sub driver, and bypassing the amp on the back of the subwoofer enclosure.

Would you happen to know the frequency range of the rear speaker signal? I have had no luck finding a T harness for my 2022 . Crutchfield suggested tapping the rear speakers to add a subwoofer.

 

[Evolvd]

Would you happen to know the frequency range of the rear speaker signal? I have had no luck finding a T harness for my 2022 . Crutchfield suggested tapping the rear speakers to add a subwoofer.

Don’t listen to Crutchfield, half their info is wrong. They also say the PAC Audio FD-21 doesn’t work on the B&O, it does. They also say the iDatalink AF-02 doesn’t fit the B&O, it also does. The AF-03 will work with the 9-speaker amp for a no-cut wiring tie-in. Don’t use the rear speaker line.
We know more about the mustangs than they do.

 

[Wickedluis]

Don’t listen to Crutchfield, half their info is wrong. They also say the PAC Audio FD-21 doesn’t work on the B&O, it does. They also say the iDatalink AF-02 doesn’t fit the B&O, it also does. The AF-03 will work with the 9-speaker amp for a no-cut wiring tie-in. Don’t use the rear speaker line.
We know more about the mustangs than they do.

Can I get more info on the AF-03? I just searched it but I am not finding it.

 

[StangTime]

Can I get more info on the AF-03? I just searched it but I am not finding it.

For a simple sub/amp install read post 9,10,&11 you won't need the HRN-AR-F03.

The HRN-AR-F03 is if you plan on gutting the OEM amp and replacing it with aftermarket.

The other option is to use a T harness CARAV 12-240 and grab the front signals to run back to your sub. You will need to get in behind the radio/screen to do this.

My choice for a quick and easy sub add-on is the first option. Just make sure you use a sub amp with high-level inputs and signal sensing for remote on/off.

 

[Wickedluis]

For a simple sub/amp install read post 9,10,&11 you won't need the HRN-AR-F03.

The HRN-AR-F03 is if you plan on gutting the OEM amp and replacing it with aftermarket.

The other option is to use a T harness CARAV 12-240 and grab the front signals to run back to your sub. You will need to get in behind the radio/screen to do this.

My choice for a quick and easy sub add-on is the first option. Just make sure you use a sub amp with high-level inputs and signal sensing for remote on/off.

Yes, this is exactly what I need. I am only doing the subs. I already have a LOC and amplifier and speakers. I appreciate the info. I will post install once its complete .
Thanks

 

[luv2fly3]

Does anyone have a drawing or plans for their trunk, wheel well, amp rack? I am preparing to build one for my system upgrade and thought I’d ask. Also curious what material is typically being used for them? Kinda leaning towards plywood as I hate cutting MDF.

 

[Evolvd]

Does anyone have a drawing or plans for their trunk, wheel well, amp rack? I am preparing to build one for my system upgrade and thought I’d ask. Also curious what material is typically being used for them? Kinda leaning towards plywood as I hate cutting MDF.

My plan is to us HDPE for the amp rack in my wheel-well and MDF for the sub enclosure. I see a lot of people use birch plywood but I just don’t like it.

 

[StangTime]

Does anyone have a drawing or plans for their trunk, wheel well, amp rack? I am preparing to build one for my system upgrade and thought I’d ask. Also curious what material is typically being used for them? Kinda leaning towards plywood as I hate cutting MDF.

I used 1/2" birch plywood. It's light, easy to work with, and cheap. Covered it and the spare tire well with carpet. I have attached a template you can use as an example. It's missing a few dimensions, but if you print it 1:1 you should have something accurate to use. Note that the template does not go all the way to the rear of the trunk wall. I created a separate compartment for storage there. Taper the cut inwards around the outside a few degrees to match the sheet metal contour. The board bolts flat on top of the metal mount that is welded to the center of the wheel well. I added some risers to support it.









View attachment S550 Amp Board Template.pdf

 

[luv2fly3]

I used 1/2" birch plywood. It's light, easy to work with, and cheap. Covered it and the spare tire well with carpet. I have attached a template you can use as an example. It's missing a few dimensions, but if you print it 1:1 you should have something accurate to use. Note that the template does not go all the way to the rear of the trunk wall. I created a separate compartment for storage there. Taper the cut inwards around the outside a few degrees to match the sheet metal contour. The board bolts flat on top of the metal mount that is welded to the center of the wheel well. I added some risers to support it.









View attachment S550 Amp Board Template.pdf

That's great Todd. Thanks so much! I didn't want to bother you again, but I should have known you'd have exactly what I was after. I have some 3/4 ply and MDF, so I'll have to decide which way I'll go. I have built some subs for my home theater space, and have some wood left over. 3/4" is probably overkill, but I already have it so it's probably the way I'll go. Appreciate the continued help!

 

[Cathul]

Probably a good idea to add some support for the floor mat that goes over this as well.

 

[StangTime]

Probably a good idea to add some support for the floor mat that goes over this as well.

Yes. I've been thinking about that. I don't transport anything in my trunk, ever, so I am in no hurry. It's low on the list.

 

[Evolvd]

That’s a really clean look! How did you get the carpet to look so clean around that radius?

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