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wildcatgoal

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Good to know on the thermostat. I have a 170 degree one I'm putting in tomorrow while I await my replacement site tube and fittings from Mishimoto. I see a flex fuel tune coming in the near future.
I'm really not keen on putting E85 into a car that wasn't specifically designed for it without changing fuel system components. I do put 2 gallons of E85 in before I do an oil change because E85 cleans out fuel systems quickly (did similar on my Harley, too - thing was spotless inside). I realize it results in more power with an associated tune, but I'm waiting for true LONG term reliability of the Coyote on E85, especially since Ford didn't make the S650 FlexFuel. It hasn't been long enough in years since the first Mustang came out to tell me a thing yet.
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NvrFinished

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I'm really not keen on putting E85 into a car that wasn't specifically designed for it without changing fuel system components. I do put 2 gallons of E85 in before I do an oil change because E85 cleans out fuel systems quickly (did similar on my Harley, too - thing was spotless inside). I realize it results in more power with an associated tune, but I'm waiting for true LONG term reliability of the Coyote on E85, especially since Ford didn't make the S650 FlexFuel. It hasn't been long enough in years since the first Mustang came out to tell me a thing yet.
I can understand that thinking. For me, it would be the occasional fill up for times when I feel I could use the advantage. I'm happy with premium gasoline for most of my driving on the street.

On a side note, it sounds like you found yourself a good Ford dealership. Most stories you hear are about dealers refusing work on modified cars. For them to go through your car like that is good to hear. I had to laugh about you towing the car in though... :clap2:
 
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I can understand that thinking. For me, it would be the occasional fill up for times when I feel I could use the advantage. I'm happy with premium gasoline for most of my driving on the street.

On a side note, it sounds like you found yourself a good Ford dealership. Most stories you hear are about dealers refusing work on modified cars. For them to go through your car like that is good to hear. I had to laugh about you towing the car in though... :clap2:
I take the car straight to a mechanic I know there and it's a family-owned dealer, not some big ass chain that's so profit-oriented they're unable to interact with customers with empathy. He is the only one that touches it, with rare exception, at that dealer. I've never really been worried about people taking the car for a joy ride at dealers, but I do worry about attention to detail and attention to my issues and actually putting in some work to replicate the issue(s) reported vs. 30-seconds. And this dealer, as a whole, seems to have earned a good reputation in sales AND service. They're straightforward and they won't repair things caused by an aftermarket mod, but that's one reason I've only done a tune and CAI. After the powertrain warranty ends, the engine will get rebuilt and enhanced at that point, when I need someone else to be responsible for its longevity, haha.

In contrast, another dealer damn near down the street from where I used to live - I actually take the time to respond to their spam email telling them I will never step foot on their scam artist-filled dealership again, haha.
 
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Well, recently I tore off the front bumper of my car on a Uhaul trailer. Figures... but at least you get a nice shot of what road courses do to your bumper (white spots are chips).

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It was my mistake not to put the car up on some wood so it had more clearance over the front lip of the trailer (which is excessively high, but... they want liability low).

The front bumper, splitter, lower splash shield, lower insulator shield (the thing that has the flap you bend down to change the oil filter), and both of my wheel well liners were damaged and have to be replaced. Plus I'll have to find the bits that screws ripped out and I'll need to repair my front turn and side marker light wiring, as that was ripped off.

I suppose it's better that this happen in a parking lot vs. a track!

Since my bumper was conveniently "removed", I decided to finally install my Mishimoto Oil Cooler. Overall, the installation went well and the fitment of everything makes sense. I would have really preferred pre-bent hoses, because these metal mesh hoses are extremely abrasive to everything they touch. I will be putting split loom over all of them, which I think will be helpful for long-term reliability, too. I had to tilt the Mishimoto oil filter sandwich plate a little more downward than their installation video implies, but I have a Steeda sway bar there so, to be expected. No leaks, which I was happy to (not) see. I do wish the sandwich plate wouldn't rotate when you torque the bolt that holds it in down. I feel like there could have been some detents or standoffs CNC'd into the design to lock it against something, but oh well. Mishimoto's install video didn't mention you need to remove the two black metal brackets that PP cars have to install the replacement air diverter panel thing that holes the actual oil cooler radiator - wasn't a big deal. You'll need to be careful that the line behind the actual oil cooler radiator thing doesn't interfere with the underside of the hood latch. I kind of wish they provided an oil line that would follow along behind the front bumper crash beam like the wiring harness that's there does, and then come upward to connect to the coil cooler. Or put both oil cooler connections on one side (if possible). There's always ways to make things better, I guess. For what I paid for this (much less than new; bought it off a guy who didn't want to go through with it), it's good stuff.

Hopefully over time it does not develop leaks or problems. It better not.

Oh, and I also installed a 170* thermostat, Ford Performance tow hook (what a bitch that is!), and did a coolant flush at the same time. Coolant that was in there looked fine but I do track the car so I'd rather flush it early. Took me a while to get heat back in the car, but just had to do some high idles. And I installed an oil temp sensor into the sandwich plate, but I didn't get a photo. I will when I do the wiring for my gauge cluster I'm adding soon.

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This is what you end up removing from the car:

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NvrFinished

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Man I feel for you! I hate to think what a new bumper is going to cost. I just got done putting my front bumper back on after a lot of different work including a splitter. I wish I would have taken a picture of the damn push pins along the wheel well. It's my second time having it off and I still don't know if I have them in the right holes :doh:

After seeing all the chips in your bumper I'm glad I spent the money on an Xpel clear bra front. After many track days I don't have anything like that other than one of my front white stripes above the splitter that had a hole the size of quarter torn from it after taking a hit from some rubber when I was at Laguna Seca.

Great write-up on the oil cooler. I'm curious how much this helps. I've been holding off for the time being since my oil temps have been manageable so far.
 

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wildcatgoal

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My oil temps have been fine if I run Liqui Moly 5W40 according to the "inferred temp gauge" but it'll get on the bleeding edge of green and my oil analysis stated it sheered (they estimated to about a 5W30) after 3-4 track days (can't remember exact number) and maybe a couple thousand street miles. If I run 5W30, I have gotten an oil temp warning on the back half of a hot track day. I want to run a good 5W30 on track, which now officially Ford recommends for on-track use, but I don't want it to get too hot and shear. I'd rather even use a 5W20 that's kept cool, if this thing will do it, just so I don't screw with anything oil fed/driven in the design of the engine. I could be just paranoid, but in terms of engine limits, I am running at the max it'll do up to 7600 RPM on track so it'll get hot, but I'm still filling in my suspension's capability with driver skill, which will presumably help me bring down my need for power a notch or two and maybe be a little easier on the engine as a result. Theory. But fundamentally, I got this whole kit pretty cheap and that's the main reason I have it. Frankly I'd rather have Steeda's oil cooling system design, which puts the little radiator part behind the front left fog light, and therefore doesn't block airflow through the upper grill to the radiator. But given my upper grill is very, very open and that there is a lot of space between the oil cooler radiator and the AC thing behind it, I am hoping that is not an issue.

I also wanted to take oil cooling duty away from the main radiator. That hopefully helps to keep engine temps down.
 

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I want to run a good 5W30 on track, which now officially Ford recommends for on-track use, but I don't want it to get too hot and shear. I'd rather even use a 5W20 that's kept cool, if this thing will do it, just so I don't screw with anything oil fed/driven in the design of the engine. I could be just paranoid, but in terms of engine limits, I am running at the max it'll do up to 7600 RPM on track so it'll get hot, but I'm still filling in my suspension's capability with driver skill, which will presumably help me bring down my need for power a notch or two and maybe be a little easier on the engine as a result.
That's news to me... Is there a Ford bulletin out regarding using 5w-30 for the track? I've been hesitant about using a 40 weight or higher myself so I have been running 5w-30. I don't have a tune or manifold on my car yet so the higher top end horsepower and RPM's must be playing a role in your higher temps then.

FWIW, I've been doing a little research about front aerodynamics and cooling for our cars (and cars in general). I had my bumper off to install an APR splitter, Velossa Tech Big Mouth and do a grill mod to include a Coyote badge similar to yours.

I've been reading that radiators cool better when they have a higher concentration of air running through a smaller or more direct opening. The GT350R is a good example. The radiator opening is even smaller than the non R models. Of course having larger openings in the hood to vent the incoming air is important as well. That is why the GT350's have the larger vent in the center. I attached some pics below as an example along with what I've done with my grille.

I noticed that you are running an aftermarket grille that allows much more air to flow into and around the engine compartment with less of a concentration on the radiator. This also requires all the air to escape somewhere and that is usually underneath the car which is not desirable. You may benefit cooling by closing some of that up.

When I did my grille mod, I tried to calculate best I could the open area in square inches for the stock grilles. I then made a back plate for my grilles out of ABS and did a cutout for the same square inches. I also made ABS cutouts to block air for the outside lower grille. I even did a block on the passenger side Velossa Tech opening since it still directs air into the engine compartment. Doing this provides the same amount of air (hopefully) that the factory grilles provide. The aerodynamics also allows the front splitter to work better than an open grille design.

Providing that I get the same cooling results as stock, I will then experiment with opening up the hood vents and then blocking off small sections of the grille opening with tape to see what results I get. I have a 16 like you and our vents don't really do much as it is. Theoretically, doing this should get the same cooling and better front down force.

Just something to think about :cheers:
GT350 front.jpg
GT350R front.jpg
GT Mustang front.jpg
 
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I saw it somewhere either on this forum or a Facebook group, but it was an official Ford document. I just spent 10-min trying to find it without luck, sorry.

I ran 5W40 and the car seemed fine and oil analysis was fine (in terms of wear indicators). I would not personally be comfortable with 5w50, so I never did that myself.

My upper grill has a blockout behind it that prevents the entire grill from being open very similar to the GT350. That doesn't really appear well on photos, but it's there. I will be experimenting with it on and off now that I have the oil cooler there.
 

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Awesome then. If it does turn up just post it here.
5W30 is recommended for track duty in the 2018 owners manual. That's where I got that from and I feel that should also apply to the 2015-2017 engines.
 
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Well, the replacement bumper is on the car and fits great. It's a take-off bumper, so it has a couple knicks here and there, which I'm happy to live with as my original bumper was getting pretty bad. I put some "black restorer" on all the black plastic parts while they were off, figured why not. Mishimoto oil cooler radiator really shows through, huh?

The Ford Performance tow hook is really something else to install. Drilling those holes is a nightmare and you have to trim the lower grill (not just the mesh part but the structure) to accommodate the hook. I suppose super high quality industrial drill bits would have helped. The hook kind of makes the car look like it has a tongue and despite dead center measurements from like 10 angles, it still looks a little off center. I looked very closely at the hook itself and it seems like the actual hook is a little bit turned right from the mounting bracket part of it. Oh well, I'll probably be the only one to notice (except for all y'all who I've told, haha). It's on, it felt like the most secure option, and I'll take it. You can also mount it the opposite direction (hook on top) if you want. No reason why not. If I had to choose another one, I'd probably get the Blowfish one, as it wraps around the bumper support. The ones that just bolt to the bumper support bolts from the backside of the crash bar mount... those are not very big/strong bolts.

I also got my Oil, Trans, and Diff gauges wired and installed. (The tape on the gauge face was how I was marking which wiring was which... ignore that.) The diff gauge needs the sensor wire hooked up still (right, defaults to max). The trans gauge works (tested after the video) but during the video I hadn't moved the car so it wasn't warm. The oil gauge works great and seems to correspond well to the fake gauge in the car dash. Installing these gauges was A LOT of careful wiring to make sure I followed existing wire looms and didn't create a snag point or do anything stupid. I think I did a good job, although all I had access to was blue zip ties so I'll have to redo those in black later.

Video: https://www.instagram.com/p/BewIhxwnx4T/?taken-by=sirboom_photography

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Well, my car is at the dealer getting its steering rack looked at. They so far have done a programming update to it (mine had some old programming) and the tech reset something that resets the yaw or some such stored memory in the car. I dunno what he was on about. Anyway, I may need a new rack, we'll see, but he said so far it seems to be acting normal. But I'm the one going on track with this so... I'll be the judge.

Overall, the reason I took it in was because the difference between Comfort and Sport and Regular (whatever the three settings are called) is so minimal you might as well not even have the settings (this has always been the case in my car) and lately there was a lot of play on center such that I all of a sudden the steering wheel was being affected by road imperfections where as before it was as stable as can be and no matter how I set and align the car it tramlines with the same wheels/tires as before. I got under the car and checked the tie rods and bumpsteer kit, which seemed fine to me. It also has never really "returned to center" like other cars I drive. It will go toward center but then stop and I always feel like I'm doing more to manipulate the wheel to center than in other cars, even other Mustangs. Like I can't always just let the wheel straighten with my fingers not gripping the wheel -- make sense? Sometimes I can, other times not. This issue I thought was an alignment issue but I had TWO alignments trying to address and it's just not feeling right.

I've complained to two Ford dealers in the past about my steering and they all said it was fine and didn't even document they looked at it. If I need a new rack and Ford won't cover it under warranty because it was never documented that it's been looked at, then I may try to install a 2018 rack from the PP2 car, if it's different. Maybe it is... I don't know but those come with bigger wheels so maybe they made it better.
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