wildcatgoal's Build - 2016 DIB GT PP

wildcatgoal

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Suspension:
Core Suspension
- Steeda Dual Rate Comp Springs
- Steeda Pro-Action Adjustable Shocks/Struts
- Steeda Camber Plates
- Steeda Sway Bars
- Steeda Bump Steer Kit
- Steeda Adjustable Sway Bar End Links
- Steeda Adjustable Bumpstops
- Steeda Rear Shock Mounts
- Steeda Toe Arms
- Steeda Rear Camber Adjustment Bracket
- Steeda Fixed Camber Arms
- Steeda Front Control Arm Bearing Kit
- Steeda Front Lower Control Arm Lateral Links

Subframe and IRS
- Steeda IRS Subframe Brace
- Steeda Ultralite 2-Point G-Trac Brace
- Steeda IRS Bushing Supports
- Steeda Differential Bushing Inserts (Aluminum)
- Differential Mounted with 9/16" Through Bolts
- Steeda IRS Subframe Alignment Kit
- Steeda Urethane Vertical Links
- Steeda Ultralite Jacking Rails
- Steeda Lower Control Arm LCA Bearings
- Ford Performance Toe Bearings

Performance
Engine/Power
- Custom 93 Tune by James Gordon / SCT X4
- ATI Super Balancer
- American Racing Headers 1 7/8" Catted Headers
- Solo Performance Mach XV Catback

Temperature Management
- Mishimoto Oil Cooler
- Glowshift Differential Temp Gauge
- Glowshift Transmission Temp Gauge
- Glowshift Oil Temp Gauge
- Ford Performance Gauge Cluster

Driveline
- MGW Race Spec Shifter
- Anarchy Motive “Titan” Shift Knob
- JPC Black Braided Clutch Line
- Shaftmasters Single Piece Direct Fit Aluminum Driveshaft

Brakes
- G-LOC F:R12/R:R10 Pads (track)
- Powerstop Z26 Pads (street)
- Ravenol R325+ Racing Brake Fluid
- Motorcraft Rotors (Blanks)
- Goodridge Stainless Braided Brake Lines

Fluids
- Liqui Moly Synthoil Premium
- BG Syncro Shift II
- BG Ultra-Guard LS

Exterior Enhancement
Body/Aerodynamics
- Verus Engineering Rear Diffuser (discontinued)
- Space City Spy Upper and Lower Grills
- Ford Performance Decklid Panel (GT logo delete)
- Kognition Designs Wing (not yet used)
- Tiger Racing Carbon Fiber Hood (not yet used)
- Ford Performance Front Tow Hook

Wheels and Tires
- ARP Extended Lugs

Daily:
- Stock PP Wheels
- Continental DWS (Staggered: F:255/40-19 | R:275/40-19)

Track:
- Rays Gram Lights 57xtreme 19x10.5" ET35
- Continental ExtremeContact Sport (Square: 285/35-19)

- SVE GT350 19x11" ET50 (20mm spacer up front)
- Bridgestone RE-71R (Square: 285/35-19)

Lighting
- Diode Dynamics LED Rear Side Marker Lights (Red)


>>> There used to be a bunch of pictures here, but I removed them as it was cumbersome. So... some subsequent posts may not make sense.





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SoCalTim

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Sold : 15 GT
The stance on those 6GR's is so good :headbang:
 

brav0

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Car looks amazing! Mine is still on order but one of the first things I ll do is buy Solo XV exhaust. The best sound in my opinion!
6GR wheels look good even before suspension work being done!
 

tom_sprecher

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How do you get the car color to change from blue to purple and back again like that? ;)
 

T-S550-X

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DIB 2015 Mustang GT PP
Car looks awesome bro! Did you install ZL1 mudflaps ?
 
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wildcatgoal

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I have Jaeger Bros mudflaps. They're alright only because you can just quickly take them off.
 

bay584

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2016 GTPP
Subscribed because we think a like and I want to go the same route as you. Great car man!
 
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wildcatgoal

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Minor update:
A new alignment has all but eliminated understeer. Basically my front camber was increased and the rear was reduced as much as they could without being worried about rub from my big tire/wheel combo in the back. This additionally resulted in the car being notably more responsive with less deliberate steering input. I'm very happy with the results. I didn't get a print-out of the alignment specs because it was done as a courtesy to prepare my car for Atlanta Motorsports Park on the 25th (JZilla Track Days event).
 
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wildcatgoal

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Installed new lower control arms with the Steeda LCA bearing. Also installed the FRPP toe link bearing. Made separate thread but pasted it here, too.

---------
Last night I finished up the installation of new lower control arms equipped with the Steeda LCA bearing and I also upgraded the toe link bushing to the FRPP toe link bearing. I won't get into how much I hate universal ball joint presses (for the toe link bearing), but I hate universal ball joint presses!

Steeda acquired the LCAs for me and installed their bearing in Valdosta, saving me the frustration of having to find someone local to do it for me. I paid reasonable shop labor and of course for the parts, but this allowed me to take off the old LCA and put the new LCA on without leaving my car on jack stands in my HOA-controlled parking garage (which wouldn't have gone over well). I just wouldn't have the time to take the LCAs off, get the bearings pressed, and put them back on all in one day (or even the same week...). Plus I know it was done right. HUGE thanks to Steeda for this!

I'm sorry, I don't have great pictures. I'm not Bill from CJ Pony Parts!
30136104936_b867d032a0_k.jpg


30136100926_88599230f0_k.jpg


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Installation Notes:
In order to do this job, I leveraged mostly BMR's instructions for installing their LCA bearing. Steeda's instructions were more detailed and immensely helpful, but seemed to suggest lowering the IRS, which makes dealing with the LCAs easier, I figure, but isn't necessary if you have a 24mm swivel socket. Why? Some dipshit at Ford put the front, inner LCA bushing bolt facing backwards into a very tight spot. If they just made it face the other way, you could take it off from the wheel well in a jiffy. Instead, with a combination of a long 1/2" extension and a 24mm swivel socket, I got it off by fishing that assembly just under the inner half shaft joint (that goes into the differential) and over the IRS cradle. Ultimately this made the swivel almost perfectly straight, just a smidgen of "bend". I couldn't do it without the swivel, a straight socket wouldn't stay on the bolt.

The work was actually pretty fun, but time consuming. The only really frustrating part was getting the new LCAs into the inner brackets. The most efficient way for me was to get the inner mounting points close to their brackets, then push in the front inner bearing in past the bolt hole some, which lined up the rear bearing in its bracket enough. I used my rubber persuader to knock the two bearings into their home a little while feeding the bolts in (rear first), but mostly once you get them into where they have to go, you can manipulate the LCA fairly easily (just have to have the knuckle jacked up so it's not interfering).

So obviously the rear springs come out doing this. But I was able to put them back in and seat them just fine by installing the inner bolts first, putting the spring in and getting it set up, then jacking up the LCA and lowering the knuckle assembly into where it bolts to the LCA. After that bolt was torqued down (to like a billion torques...) I was able to reinstall the shock, the lower sway bar end link, toe arm, end links, and whatever else that's down there no problem. I am frankly amazed I was able to articulate my 900' 1/2" torque wrench under the car on jack stands (just two rear jack stands, I needed the car at the downward angle to have enough space).

I did have to remove my exhaust because it was getting in the way.

The Wonderful Results:
Honestly I was half expecting the addition of two spherical bearings to create noise. I have no additional NVH - just different and frankly more desirable NVH. I guess the only difference is that everything is MUCH MUCH tighter in the back, so the rear suspension feels stiffer which results in "stuff" in my car moving around a bit more. Going over bumps is a little more abrupt feeling, but it's actually preferable.

I get less "thud" and "jerk forward" when I put the car in gear. I have no idea why... but that's nice. Driving, the rear of the car now feels composed, every input of power is so much more immediate. I don't know why, but my car also doesn't seem to understeer at all anymore, as well. I cannot get a wheel to hop for the life of me and the inner wheel in a sharp turn will not skip if I gun it. The car also feels more stable, like side to side. It also appears to be the case that I have "more wheel travel downward" now. Even when jacked up the wheels will hang a bit lower. I went into a McDonalds parking lot that usually will tripod my car and it didn't tripod. The LCA bearing apparently keeps the suspension from binding, so I figure that's the reason why. And since day one my car rocked back and forth after it stopped. This has all but gone away now.

I'm really happy with the results and I think everyone should do this mod.
 
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wildcatgoal

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I got some gum on my tires so... BURN OUT!

[ame]
And another guy got some gum on his, too... damn litter bugs.

[ame]
 
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Coyote Red

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I had a 2014 DIB Cyclone that turned from deep blue to purple in the shade, your suspension work is admirable. I am installing BMR "lock-out" w/ J&M aluminum subframe bushings after the 20th, hope it helps, I haven't had "wheel-hop" but rarely get on the throttle too hard. Enjoy the twisty's! Thank's for the instructional write-up.
 

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Congratulations on MOTM! The car looks fantastic! Happy to see another s550 sitting beautifully on a set of 6grs :thumbsup: Great writing content in your build thread as well!...I enjoyed the suspension talk but the part about your ex not complimenting Christ but being good in bed LOL:lol::lol:
 

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