Wider rims, need advice

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TrackMustang

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== CALIPERS ==
front
red: KR3Z-2B121-A, KR3Z-2B120-A <$263
orange: MR3Z-2B121-B, MR3Z-2B120-B <$332
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-caliper-assembly-brake-less-pad-mr3z2b121b
https://www.bluespringsfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-caliper-assembly-brake-less-pad-mr3z2b121b
https://parts.autonationfordwhitebe...rd-caliper-assembly-brake-less-pad-mr3z2b121b
rear
red: KR3Z-2552-A, KR3Z-2553-A $130
orange: MR3Z-2552-A, MR3Z-2553-A, $120
red bracket: KR3Z-2B511-A $114
I have 14” rotors, can I assume these require 15”??

 

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Do you need spacers to switch from the 9.5 to the 11? If so what size? Do you have longer studs too, and presumably open lug nuts…? So many questions with four wheels…
You need camber to stuff the front 11" wheels under the fender - camber plates specifically because you need the room between the strut and fender which camber plates can give you.

Then, you need either
1) specific 11" wheels with ETs for the front (ET~26) - these will fit w/o spacers, but I only know two manufacturers who make front-specific 11" mustang offsets (without going full custom) - Apex is one and I forget the other.

OR 2) common 11" wheels ET~50-52 which fit the rear on our cars, a 25mm/1" slip on spacer, and extended studs which are at least 1" longer than stock - ARP makes some, and you can buy Ford hubs with these pre-installed, or just install them yourself.

OPMustang.com is a good source for studs and spacers, and the guy is very knowledgeable about and has been a great vendor to work with.

The advantage to 2 is you can freely rotate all four corners because they're all the same wheel offset and tire. With 1 you can't rotate front to rear (not everybody cares about that and you save some money not buying studs and spacers.

IMG_3479.jpg
 
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You need camber to stuff the front 11" wheels under the fender - camber plates specifically because you need the room between the strut and fender which camber plates can give you.

Then, you need either
1) specific 11" wheels with ETs for the front (ET~26) - these will fit w/o spacers, but I only know two manufacturers who make front-specific 11" mustang offsets (without going full custom) - Apex is one and I forget the other.

OR 2) common 11" wheels ET~50-52 which fit the rear on our cars, a 25mm/1" slip on spacer, and extended studs which are at least 1" longer than stock - ARP makes some, and you can buy Ford hubs with these pre-installed, or just install them yourself.

OPMustang.com is a good source for studs and spacers, and the guy is very knowledgeable about and has been a great vendor to work with.

The advantage to 2 is you can freely rotate all four corners because they're all the same wheel offset and tire. With 1 you can't rotate front to rear (not everybody cares about that and you save some money not buying studs and spacers.

IMG_3479.jpg
There is so much to this… motorcycles are so much more simple.
 

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bnightstar

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You should also look into the GT350 swap. Very easy and cheap (comparative with the PP/Bullitt kit) and has some inherent benefit over those in the caliper and pad design and also bigger rotors.
The ones I’ve seen are similar in price, unless I missed something?
 
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You need camber to stuff the front 11" wheels under the fender - camber plates specifically because you need the room between the strut and fender which camber plates can give you.

Then, you need either
1) specific 11" wheels with ETs for the front (ET~26) - these will fit w/o spacers, but I only know two manufacturers who make front-specific 11" mustang offsets (without going full custom) - Apex is one and I forget the other.

OR 2) common 11" wheels ET~50-52 which fit the rear on our cars, a 25mm/1" slip on spacer, and extended studs which are at least 1" longer than stock - ARP makes some, and you can buy Ford hubs with these pre-installed, or just install them yourself.

OPMustang.com is a good source for studs and spacers, and the guy is very knowledgeable about and has been a great vendor to work with.

The advantage to 2 is you can freely rotate all four corners because they're all the same wheel offset and tire. With 1 you can't rotate front to rear (not everybody cares about that and you save some money not buying studs and spacers.

IMG_3479.jpg
what specifically is the advantage of 11s over 10s?This seems like more work than getting a 10 to fit, is it worth it? Why/how?
 
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EFI

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The ones I’ve seen are similar in price, unless I missed something?
You're probably looking at the whole "kit" from a vendor that are usually has more expensive.

Buying just the barebones from a dealer or Ford parts vendor is cheaper.

I bought the whole front end GT350 kit for under $1k. Could even be done for a few hundred less had I not chosen to do the studs and ss lines and re-used the existing hardware. I went with the studs for easier pad/rotor swap at the track, not something that's needed for a street car.

Front calipers
Front pads
Steel rotors
Conversion brackets with the optional studs
Stainless lines
 

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what specifically is the advantage of 11s over 10s?This seems like more work than getting a 10 to fit, is it worth it? Why/how?
You get a wider tires, for a track car it's very beneficial to fit a 305-315 tire over a 275-285 especially on the front of a nose heavy car.
 

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It all depends on what you want to spend, but for him I went with late model restoration wheels. Great budget buy with light weight rim.
 

 
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