millhouse
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2016
- Threads
- 18
- Messages
- 2,652
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- Location
- Simpsonville SC
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 Ruby Red GT PP
Everything in red you have incorrect.The ONLY reason is cause multiple test mules went BOOM on relatively minor boost.
So lets run down the N/A list bottom up:
~ block stock
~ crank stock
~ custom oiling not needed
~ rods custom, not needed
~pistons custom, not needed
~ cam custom
~ pushrods custom,
not needed~ heads wildly ported wouldn't even live on the street, Wrong
~ rocker gear custom
~ intake manifold custom
~ custom fuel rails
~ID2000 injectors, only needed for 800+NA hp
~TB off the shelf
~ Headers custom
~ standalone controller pack
Now lets add boost to an IRON BLOCK for 1800 hp:
~ Filled block, not needed
~ custom crank, not needed
~ crank support girdle, not needed
~ ARP everything which ARP doesn't sell, they will
~ Aluminum rods so the crank doesn't take the brunt and shatter the main caps, aluminum not needed
because IRON BLOCK
~ etc, etc.
So yeah, your 7.3 GODZILLA can make power. But it ain't gonna be cheap and it's only going to be
competitive in a MAX EFFORT application with a shitload of money.
Wait, you would run a stock longblock gen2 coyote to 1800hp? BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA!Gen 2 + coyote:
~ fore return style fuel system
~ ID1000 min
~ boost
GODZILLA WHO?
Your entire post shows you still don't understand jack. It's obvious you have not read any literature or watched any videos on the Godzilla engine, as your post shows your ignorance.
Seriously though, $1500 worth of parts is going to get you 600+ hp out of the Godzilla once aftermarket goes to production. That's dirt cheap, especially when you look at what a typical 600hp performance crate engine costs. Add another $1500 for a decent port, upgraded valves and springs and you're looking at 750+HP street-able NA horsepower. Again, that's dirt cheap compared to a crate engine...and you're not touching that without boost in a coyote.
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