Who still has the C-Pillar rattle/buzz?

[GT 550]

they told me that in the process of also trying to solve the rear right creaking sound, they found that my flywheel is damaged and needs to be replaced.

Before they go tearing your car apart ask them how they found it. Hard to believe they removed the gearbox when trying to find a noise in the rear. It's maybe just possible that while driving they heard something they've heard before which leads them to think there's a flywheel problem. Or they're just rorting the warranty system.

It's like saying they found a problem with the water pump while fixing the rear light

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[Thegipper]

Before they go tearing your car apart ask them how they found it. Hard to believe they removed the gearbox when trying to find a noise in the rear. It's maybe just possible that while driving they heard something they've heard before which leads them to think there's a flywheel problem. Or they're just rorting the warranty system.

It's like saying they found a problem with the water pump while fixing the rear light

Haha. Yes. They were driving it then looking under the car and it led them there and they saw the damage. This example of a mustang that I got is a mess.

 

[Thegipper]

The car is at the dealership. As they were looking for the rear right creaking they noticed the engine tick and Ford told them to open the engine and inspect the bottom end

 

[Albertcado]

For those who have successfully rid of the c-pillar buzz coming from the airbag area, do I need to disconnect the battery as a precaution before working on this or is it not necessary?

 

[Cobra Jet]

For those who have successfully rid of the c-pillar buzz coming from the airbag area, do I need to disconnect the battery as a precaution before working on this or is it not necessary?

As a precaution, any time when working with vehicle airbags or the Safety Restraint System, yes the battery should be disconnected.

There's (3) reasons:
1) Safety - it's a risk working with a "live" airbag where there is the potential of triggering it.

2) Aside from safety - if an airbag harness is disconnected or dislodged when "live", you will trip the SRS fault code. In some instances the only way this code can be cleared is by disconnecting battery (easy) or some codes can't be cleared with a battery reset and require Dealership intervention ($$), use of Forscan (if lucky), or specialized SRS reset tool.

3) Non-start instance - with some vehicles if one or more SRS fault codes are tripped, it could result in the vehicle not starting until the code(s) get cleared. See # 2 above for clearing SRS codes.


Some folks don't disconnect airbags and just do whatever and never run into issues - but look at it as not "if" something may happen but "when".... Always take safety precautions.

 

[geep81]

I just shoved felt pads up behind it, didn't worry at all about setting anything off. Was not banging/mangling it in any way.

The metal canister is in a plastic harness that attaches to the body, I was shoving stuff in but not hard at all.

Pro tip I learned when I did the other side, I didn't remove any trim other than the A pillar to pull that part of the headliner, then I used large plastic pry tools to hold the headliner down enough to slip things in there. Was way easier than the first time when I removed the rear side panels so I could lower the headliner more.

 

[Albertcado]

I just shoved felt pads up behind it, didn't worry at all about setting anything off. Was not banging/mangling it in any way.

The metal canister is in a plastic harness that attaches to the body, I was shoving stuff in but not hard at all.

Pro tip I learned when I did the other side, I didn't remove any trim other than the A pillar to pull that part of the headliner, then I used large plastic pry tools to hold the headliner down enough to slip things in there. Was way easier than the first time when I removed the rear side panels so I could lower the headliner more.

so you didn't disconnect the battery and had no issues during or after the fix?

 

[Albertcado]

As a precaution, any time when working with vehicle airbags or the Safety Restraint System, yes the battery should be disconnected.

There's (3) reasons:
1) Safety - it's a risk working with a "live" airbag where there is the potential of triggering it.

2) Aside from safety - if an airbag harness is disconnected or dislodged when "live", you will trip the SRS fault code. In some instances the only way this code can be cleared is by disconnecting battery (easy) or some codes can't be cleared with a battery reset and require Dealership intervention ($$), use of Forscan (if lucky), or specialized SRS reset tool.

3) Non-start instance - with some vehicles if one or more SRS fault codes are tripped, it could result in the vehicle not starting until the code(s) get cleared. See # 2 above for clearing SRS codes.


Some folks don't disconnect airbags and just do whatever and never run into issues - but look at it as not "if" something may happen but "when".... Always take safety precautions.

thanks cobra jet good to know, are there any issues that I may run into when re-connecting the battery after the job? btw, you're one of the most informative members on here and seem to know about even the smallest details, it's much appreciated

 

[geep81]

so you didn't disconnect the battery and had no issues during or after the fix?

Correct.

 

[Albertcado]

Correct.

what do you recommend for putting behind that plastic harness? I'm guessing some sandwiched felt discs or tape would work well? Is it as simple and straightforward as it sounds.. just shove those back there to create a buffer and that should stop the rattle?

 

[Albertcado]

Hi all, I just made a separate post regarding this, but thought why not ask the experts here who dealt with rattles already.
Anyone know what the inside panel of this area should look like? The little light indicator plate is loose and I believe it's the culprit of my random tap/clicking noise. When I took the door panel apart it was attached but loose enough to rotate around, the wiring was harnessed properly though. Maybe the plastic thing clipping it to the panel doesn't have enough tension or pre-load? From the inside of the car I can wiggle it freely, is there some kind of foam or padding that should have been in there from factory? Any reference of what the inside of this area should look like if installed properly would help greatly. The one on the passenger side is super secure and won't budge at all. Thanks in advance.

 

[GT 550]

The little light indicator plate is loose and I believe it's the culprit of my random tap/clicking noise.

Why not put some frog tape over it and behind, then drive down a road where you know it makes the noise. If it doesn't then you know.

I'm betting it's not the problem because those parts are so lightweight they prob don't move at all but I'm also not one to underestimate the quirkiness of a rattle.

 

[StangTime]

Hi all, I just made a separate post regarding this, but thought why not ask the experts here who dealt with rattles already.
Anyone know what the inside panel of this area should look like? The little light indicator plate is loose and I believe it's the culprit of my random tap/clicking noise. When I took the door panel apart it was attached but loose enough to rotate around, the wiring was harnessed properly though. Maybe the plastic thing clipping it to the panel doesn't have enough tension or pre-load? From the inside of the car I can wiggle it freely, is there some kind of foam or padding that should have been in there from factory? Any reference of what the inside of this area should look like if installed properly would help greatly. The one on the passenger side is super secure and won't budge at all. Thanks in advance.

Here you go:

If you flick the wire harness it makes the LED housing rattle. But I believe it's the door control module mounted to the metal in the same area that is causing noise. I have the rattle there too.

I love using butyl for rattle proofing parts like this. They use it to seal windshields to the body. It's black, flexible, plyable, and can be rolled up and wadded between panels and anything else that buzzes or rattles. One roll goes a loooong way. I used this to fix my C pillar rattle.

 

[geep81]

what do you recommend for putting behind that plastic harness? I'm guessing some sandwiched felt discs or tape would work well? Is it as simple and straightforward as it sounds.. just shove those back there to create a buffer and that should stop the rattle?

I used felt sandwich disks for furniture, round ones with sticky adhesive backs. I actually put two together to make them thicker when I wedged them around the harness.

 

[Albertcado]

Here you go:

If you flick the wire harness it makes the LED housing rattle. But I believe it's the door control module mounted to the metal in the same area that is causing noise. I have the rattle there too.

I love using butyl for rattle proofing parts like this. They use it to seal windshields to the body. It's black, flexible, plyable, and can be rolled up and wadded between panels and anything else that buzzes or rattles. One roll goes a loooong way. I used this to fix my C pillar rattle.

thanks very much for your help! I actually don't remember seeing anything mounted directly behind the LED on the metal. Is it exactly behind it?

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