Whiteline DKT943 vs BMR010 vs Steeda

[Torinate]

Thank you.

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[morgande]

I know, likely discussed before but can’t find much info on the Whiteline ones. I know the BMR and Steeda equivalent both work great. However, in looking at all 3 I can get the Whiteline ones for literally $200 cheaper. I know, crazy. But, being in Ontario and factoring in exchange rate and shipping versus finding the Whiteline locally that’s just the difference.

Looking for experiences with the whiteline model and if they actually work as well as the others.

Are the BMR and Steeda worth the extra money?

Thanks!

https://whitelineperformance.com/products/kdt943-bushing-kit

http://m.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1727

https://steeda.ca/collections/musta...-subframe-alignment-and-support-kit-2015-2019

I run the Steeda Stop the Hop Starter Kit. It including the bushings + support braces. I get it that its more expensive cause your in Canada. But I HIGHLY recommend the full stop the hop kit. Not only does it eliminate wheel hop but it just flat out helps with acceleration period. The car transfers power a lot better. It really puts it down with this kit....drives different. Makes you feel the torque you already have If your going to do it, do it RIGHT. Buy a whole system, and buy the Steeda one cause its GOOD.

https://steeda.ca/collections/suspe...roducts/s550-mustang-stop-the-hop-starter-kit

 

[S550_Newbie]

I run the Steeda Stop the Hop Starter Kit. It including the bushings + support braces. I get it that its more expensive cause your in Canada. But I HIGHLY recommend the full stop the hop kit. Not only does it eliminate wheel hop but it just flat out helps with acceleration period. The car transfers power a lot better. It really puts it down with this kit....drives different. Makes you feel the torque you already have If your going to do it, do it RIGHT. Buy a whole system, and buy the Steeda one cause its GOOD.

https://steeda.ca/collections/suspe...roducts/s550-mustang-stop-the-hop-starter-kit

I agree, since I was pulling the subframe down I installed the kit and later ordered the rear vertical links and braces. I was shocked out how much difference the vertical links made, I didn't expect it. The backend is very planted now.

 

[morgande]

I agree, since I was pulling the subframe down I installed the kit and later ordered the rear vertical links and braces. I was shocked out how much difference the vertical links made, I didn't expect it. The backend is very planted now.

yeah I don’t have the vertical links yet. Just the braces. But I was shocked as well. In all honestly this should prob be the first mod anyone does. Even before a tune. You would be surprised just how much torque isn’t being applied from the stock motor.

The car makes more power than you think, simply because it’s not putting all the available power down. Once you get ALL the power down, then you should add more ! But work on putting the power you got down first, then decided if too much is just enough

 

[shogun32]

If I ever do the IRS again (Mach 1 or GT350) I'll likely go for the CB762 like I have on my GT and mix in the WP KDT943 if I can make it work. I'm making my own take on KDT953 for my Camaro out of 85 shore material.

 

[Radiation Joe]

I'm considering the 943s along with some other mods.
I currently have the Steeda support kit with alignment dowels, BMR upper shock mounts 350R springs and FP shocks. It feels good, but makes noise. Everything has been in place for about 18 months and one Pennsylvania winter.
I like the idea of the isolation provided by the 943s, but don't like the fact that the subframe has to come out to install them. So if the subframe has to come out, I might as well add the the Whiteline diff mount supports and the front control arm bearings at the same time.
I guess I'm looking for validation that this will be a good choice.

 

[shogun32]

The whiteline DIFF mounts (the replacemnet kind) are very nice. Yes they do make some noise - you can hear a 'thump' as the drive-shaft load/unloads. but you don't get the raucous gear whine like you get with the Steeda/BMR "puck" systems or with AL/Delrin bushings.

If using 943, the IRS subframe doesn't have to come off, just lowered a bit. Now if you go with the 953 (total replacement) then yes the IRS has to be fully lowered to the ground to work on it.

 

[Radiation Joe]

The whiteline DIFF mounts (the replacemnet kind) are very nice. Yes they do make some noise - you can hear a 'thump' as the drive-shaft load/unloads. but you don't get the raucous gear whine like you get with the Steeda/BMR "puck" systems or with AL/Delrin bushings.

If using 943, the IRS subframe doesn't have to come off, just lowered a bit. Now if you go with the 953 (total replacement) then yes the IRS has to be fully lowered to the ground to work on it.

Thanks. Much appreciated. I was mistaken. I meant to say KDT953 not 943.

 

[shogun32]

well, you CAN install the 953 with it still being up in the air but you have to be 'adventurous' or a glutton for unnecessary pain to do that.

 

[Grimreaper]

Do the 953 bushings play nice with the torsen diffs?

 

[shogun32]

Do the 953 bushings play nice with the torsen diffs?

yes both my cars have Torsen. Why would this be a question?

 

[XeninWorX]

https://www.wmsracing.com/wmsweb/2015-mustang-irs-parts.html

They don’t have the Steeda kit but you can buy both Steeda parts individually. It’s just 4437 and 4438.

they’re in Calgary. I bought my S197 jacking rails from them. Even with the shipping cost it was a lot cheaper than buying from Steeda in Milton.

 

[Grimreaper]

yes both my cars have Torsen. Why would this be a question?

I should have been more direct. Interested in how much increase there may have been with nvh specific to the torsen. Running the bmr diff lockout pucks and its not bad on the street but looking in to full replacement options. Usually the torsen is the noise maker

 

[shogun32]

Interested in how much increase there may have been with nvh specific to the torsen. Running the bmr diff lockout pucks and its not bad on the street but looking in to full replacement options.

you gotta keep your part numbers straight. We were talking about IRS bushings, not DIFF bushings. The Whiteline full-replacement DIFF bushings work fabulous with Torsen. Unlike the 'puck' systems which cause the diff to grind/sing. I can hear click/clack of drive shaft/diff loading/unloading when all else is quiet.

 

[Grimreaper]

you gotta keep your part numbers straight. We were talking about IRS bushings, not DIFF bushings. The Whiteline full-replacement DIFF bushings work fabulous with Torsen. Unlike the 'puck' systems which cause the diff to grind/sing. I can hear click/clack of drive shaft/diff loading/unloading when all else is quiet.

understand on the part numbers. Seems like the DIff bushings are a no brainer at this point besides the extra work to install. are either of your cars running both diff/subframe full WP bushing replacement? NVH opinion? most usually do one or the other.

The subframe kdt953 pictures show a washer or metal lip around where contact would be made with the outer subframe bushing hole lip, is this in fact there on these parts? BMR doesn't recommend (but still sells?) full bushing replacement on subframe unless its alum. delrin and poly have failed from being cut apart from the subframe to body/rail mounting point.

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