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Wickedluis

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I accidentally put my shifter to manual mode and hit the rev limiter for a split second today and now it feels like less than stock horsepower.
It's a 2022 mustang gt with a stage 2 whipple, 10 speed. No check engine lights or codes.
Anyone have any ideas on why ?
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sabtaj1

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Check your belt.
 
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Wickedluis

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Wickedluis

Wickedluis

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I wonder why it blew?
I replaced the dual fan relay last week, I might have touched something. The temperatures were cooler when I did this and I hadn't driven it much since then.
I drove it a few miles after I replaced the fuse and everything seems fine now.
I thought I screwed something up when I hit the limiter , but this was the first time I floored it since replacing the relay...and looking at the video I took It was barely red lined ,not even a half second..lol
 
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Wickedluis

Wickedluis

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Well , blew the fuse again. Not sure what the issue is. I replaced it and it's running fine again.
 

sabtaj1

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I’d recheck the ground, possibly loose or bad connection maybe. Not sure why it would keep popping besides that.
 
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Wickedluis

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You know what whipple said? They told me to use a 15A fuse with no answer as to why it popped. I recently replaced the dual fan relay and used a better ground. I will recheck that.
 

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dual relay setup.
its always the last thing you touched.

where did you get the relay ... or fan power from?
the pump circuit?
or ... vice versa.
you steal the power from the fans cct to feed the pump and now have 2 fans?

works OK till 2nd fan kicks in?
and inductive loads like fans/pumps draw ~ 3 times rated current on startup.
so fuse has to be larger than nameplate run current to hold for start spike.

change in load too much for original fuse?

just a thought
 
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Wickedluis

Wickedluis

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dual relay setup.
its always the last thing you touched.

where did you get the relay ... or fan power from?
the pump circuit?
or ... vice versa.
you steal the power from the fans cct to feed the pump and now have 2 fans?

works OK till 2nd fan kicks in?
and inductive loads like fans/pumps draw ~ 3 times rated current on startup.
so fuse has to be larger than nameplate run current to hold for start spike.

change in load too much for original fuse?

just a thought
It's the relays and fans from whipple. When the fan relay burnt out they sent me a another relay and harness . This happened after swapping these out. It's been holding since I changed the fuse, but I am going to check everything. It was installed just like in their instructions and diagram.
Whipple support told me to try a 15 amp fuse ...lol
 
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Wickedluis

Wickedluis

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Update, on my third relay . Dropped off the car at Ford . It's still popping the intercooler pump fuse as well. One thing I did notice is ever since my whipple installation my voltage is constantly at 15 volts when the car is on. It used to fluctuate normally before.
 

mejohn50

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Update, on my third relay . Dropped off the car at Ford . It's still popping the intercooler pump fuse as well. One thing I did notice is ever since my whipple installation my voltage is constantly at 15 volts when the car is on. It used to fluctuate normally before.
Whipple cranks the alternator output voltage WAAAAAY up in the calibration for some reason. Speculating it’s to give the fuel pump just a bit more head room.
 
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Wickedluis

Wickedluis

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Whipple cranks the alternator output voltage WAAAAAY up in the calibration for some reason. Speculating it’s to give the fuel pump just a bit more head room.
Well that's good to know. Been trying to figure out the relay issue, but I gave up and decided to let Ford track it down. Its melting around pin 87 , I ended up buying one at autozone for the time being. The intercooler pump has its own relay ,that will blow the 10a fuse . It's intermittent on both .
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