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Whipple parts suggestions

Julianc

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Yo what’s up guys I just got a whipple 3.0 gen 5 for my 2018 manual mustang trying get some recommendations for the build I already have a crank support 20% OD, 10 rib 3.25 pulley, in need of a good of a good belt, I have opg and sprocket, waiting on fuel injectors and fuel system to come in, I’m going to touch the rear suspension soon just focusing on engine bay as of now, shooting for 8-9 on E85 any tips or part recommendations will help, thank y’all !
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Julianc

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Yesir I plan to do that, going with Ben calimer and also will be getting a new clutch too
 

LethalSteveG

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Suspension and drivetrain are going to be key for this esp being a manual car. Real question is, how much are you looking to spend and longterm goals. What type of ride are you looking to have or just stiffen everything to work at the track?
 

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Julianc

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I know this car will be a money pit it will be a progress overtime so I won’t mind putting money into it long term goals hoping to touch 9 at the track drivetrain and suspension Will definitely get done just trying finish up engine bay needs and gonna work on the rear end up soon
 

HKusp

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So what injector are you going with? What fuel system? You probably have done this, but it is worth mentioning, a good oil catch can is pretty much a MUST with boosted applications.
 
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Julianc

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So what injector are you going with? What fuel system? You probably have done this, but it is worth mentioning, a good oil catch can is pretty much a MUST with boosted applications.
Return style fuel system by lethal 1050 injectors have two regulators and 2 pumps as of now, got a jlt ctach can but thinking of going upr
 

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So, the stage 2 kit comes with a 132 throttle body, intake, you have the injectors, you have the catch can, you have the return style fuel system, gears, sprocket, crank support, OD pulley, and when you figure out the belt, (I would recommend Gates green belt), I can't think of anything else under the hood you'd need. Seems you got it covered.
 

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I'd highly consider going Magnum XL before you upgrade. If you do it from the get, the price between the two options (Magnum or Calimer 3) is pretty close, especially when you factor in selling your functional MT unit.

If you wait until after you've upgraded driveshaft and shifter, it starts to get in favor of the MT upgrade.

Given that you won't have rev matching issues, Magnum is a better option for a number of reasons.

Until you upgrade the transmission, you'll either burn up clutches or smoke the trans (pick one). If you upgrade the clutch, the trans will brake. If you don't upgrade the clutch, it'll eventually fail. You can granny it for awhile and get more life out of it, but if you make any serious steam with the blower setup (which I'm guessing is the case if you're going with a 10 rib) then your MT is on borrowed time.
 

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I wish I would have upgraded my transmission when the blower went on. I grenaded my MT82 in short order after the whipple. Went Magnum XL and sold my blown up MT82 to Calimer for $500. Wish I would have sold a fully functioning transmission for much more.
 
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Julianc

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I'd highly consider going Magnum XL before you upgrade. If you do it from the get, the price between the two options (Magnum or Calimer 3) is pretty close, especially when you factor in selling your functional MT unit.

If you wait until after you've upgraded driveshaft and shifter, it starts to get in favor of the MT upgrade.

Given that you won't have rev matching issues, Magnum is a better option for a number of reasons.

Until you upgrade the transmission, you'll either burn up clutches or smoke the trans (pick one). If you upgrade the clutch, the trans will brake. If you don't upgrade the clutch, it'll eventually fail. You can granny it for awhile and get more life out of it, but if you make any serious steam with the blower setup (which I'm guessing is the case if you're going with a 10 rib) then your MT is on borrowed time.
Would magnum XL hold up to 8-1k hp or would I have to buy a specific built one I’m not to familiar with that transmission I know what cars they are in and for the most part they are really good but just wouldn’t know if I get a built one or regular one seeing this is the route I’m going to take just to ensure on not blowing the trans every 3 months having fun with the car
 

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Would magnum XL hold up to 8-1k hp or would I have to buy a specific built one I’m not to familiar with that transmission I know what cars they are in and for the most part they are really good but just wouldn’t know if I get a built one or regular one seeing this is the route I’m going to take just to ensure on not blowing the trans every 3 months having fun with the car
It depends.

All manual transmissions are subject to harder shock loading than auto's because there's no fluid converter to act as a dampener. So worst case conditions are high torque, dropping a grabby clutch from high rpm on launch with sticky radials, a heavy flywheel, full weight car on a prepped track. Changing any of those tends to lessen the punch of torque the trans experiences. Wrinkle wall tires flex and dampen more than stiffer radials. A lighter flywheel slams with less momentum than a heavier one. Lower RPM launches and clutch feathering are easier on the trans than Redline top rope slams. The weight of the car gets a vote. The clutch itself can be a real contributor into how aggressive it engages and bites.

In summary, even a N/A car can be abusive on a stout trans like a magnum with the right conditions. Even a 1500 hp car can have a long happy life with a stock magnum if you're just doing high speed roll racing and never doing no lift shifts with a grabby clutch.

The Magnum is pretty stout right out of the box, but depending on the abuse, might be just fine depending on how badly you punish it.
 
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Julianc

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It depends.

All manual transmissions are subject to harder shock loading than auto's because there's no fluid converter to act as a dampener. So worst case conditions are high torque, dropping a grabby clutch from high rpm on launch with sticky radials, a heavy flywheel, full weight car on a prepped track. Changing any of those tends to lessen the punch of torque the trans experiences. Wrinkle wall tires flex and dampen more than stiffer radials. A lighter flywheel slams with less momentum than a heavier one. Lower RPM launches and clutch feathering are easier on the trans than Redline top rope slams. The weight of the car gets a vote. The clutch itself can be a real contributor into how aggressive it engages and bites.

In summary, even a N/A car can be abusive on a stout trans like a magnum with the right conditions. Even a 1500 hp car can have a long happy life with a stock magnum if you're just doing high speed roll racing and never doing no lift shifts with a grabby clutch.

The Magnum is pretty stout right out of the box, but depending on the abuse, might be just fine depending on how badly you punish it.
The car plans to hit the track not as much, the car will 90% of the time be used for roll racing
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