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Whipple, Fore tripple pump, Octane booster Misfiring

ven377

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Hello guys,

So recently I had my Fore tripple pump fuel system installed along with ID1300x and some boostane on 91oct

As data logging was being done everything seem to be running well.
After almost being done with tuning and data logging the car started to misfire and throw codes P0300 P0307 P0308.

I went ahead and swapped to some new NKG 6510 gapped at 0.028 and still had the same problems. Tuner sais everything looks good and the misfiring seems to be mechanical.

Can a bad cat cause misfiring?

Mods are
- Built 5.2L motor 5k miles
- Stage 2 whipple
- Fore tripple pump fuel system
- ID1300x
- NGK 6510 gapped at 0.028
- 91 octane with a 32oz bottle of boostane
- Stock headers
- Stock resonators
- Stock cats (40k Miles)
- Roush quad tip exhaust
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stang17

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I had the same misfire codes. Cats ended up being partially plugged up. Gutted them, turned off the rear 02s with HP tuners, and car has ran great ever since. NGK plugs gapped at 0.028
 
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ven377

ven377

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I had the same misfire codes. Cats ended up being partially plugged up. Gutted them, turned off the rear 02s with HP tuners, and car has ran great ever since. NGK plugs gapped at 0.028
what do you mean gutted the cats?
 

stang17

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1. Cut away the top part of the catalytic converter which faces the underneath of the car
2. peel it back
3. remove all of the insides
4. weld the cut portion back
5. sand the welds to make it look like it was never opened
6. put back in place.

Gives the look of a stock cat, but with straight through performance.

Since you have the stock resonator in place, sound shouldn't be too much louder. I personally had to replace the x pipe from my magnaflow cat back with a magnaflow resonator to quiet it back down. Exhaust tone is PERFECT now without any drone or rasp.

I drive less than 5,000 miles a year so I'm emissions exempt. In the odd chance I went over 5,000 miles, our inspections are only visual. Figure I'd keep the appearance of a cat just in case.

You will need to update the tune to turn the rear o2 sensors off to prevent a CEL from coming on- easy fix.
 
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ven377

ven377

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that sound great.

I have already been sent to state ref once for having catless headers. Thats why I am running all of the stock exhaust junk :(
 

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that sound great.

I have already been sent to state ref once for having catless headers. Thats why I am running all of the stock exhaust junk :(

if you have any other cat other then kooks green cats then your cats are clogged and or damaged. because all others cats cannot withstand the heat from boost over time. I suggest you get those kooks green cats and weld them in..i just replaced mine with off road pipes and both of my high flow cats were destroyed from only 4 months of use...

link:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIm5XfyOPn2wIV0AOGCh2wCgNdEAQYASABEgLCmPD_BwE
 
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ven377

ven377

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I been running these cats for about 35k miles with boost.
First with procharger about 30k miles and 5k with the whipple and 50 miles with whipple and boostane before this started to happen
 

Dominant1

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Do aftermarket turbo kits have the same problem with roasting the cats?
 

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Do aftermarket turbo kits have the same problem with roasting the cats?
With a proper tune, cats have the ability to last under boosted applications. However, more and more forum members are coming across instances of the cats failing.

Generally speaking, cats that come OEM on a N/A application are not intended for use on a boosted application.

Kooks "green cats" provide better durability for boosted applications, however they come at an additional expense.

In my opinion, running no cats or "hollow cats" would be the safest and most efficient option for boosted applications.
 

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Do aftermarket turbo kits have the same problem with roasting the cats?
Keep in mind this is the internet, almost nobody is an expert at what they are talking about. Not saying this to insult anyone, just that things can easily get overblown and topics are mostly opinion, not fact based. Just in the last two
days I’ve seen the cat subject come up and the only person I felt confident in listening to is an OEM engineer and he said it is all up to how well the tune is written.
 

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sigintel

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1. Cut away the top part of the catalytic converter which faces the underneath of the car
2. peel it back
3. remove all of the insides
4. weld the cut portion back
5. sand the welds to make it look like it was never opened
6. put back in place.

Gives the look of a stock cat, but with straight through performance.

Since you have the stock resonator in place, sound shouldn't be too much louder. I personally had to replace the x pipe from my magnaflow cat back with a magnaflow resonator to quiet it back down. Exhaust tone is PERFECT now without any drone or rasp.

I drive less than 5,000 miles a year so I'm emissions exempt. In the odd chance I went over 5,000 miles, our inspections are only visual. Figure I'd keep the appearance of a cat just in case.

You will need to update the tune to turn the rear o2 sensors off to prevent a CEL from coming on- easy fix.
If you *need* plausible deniability:
Use a 2x2 piece of wood and mallet to “punch” the cats so they shear and leave some cat material on the outer wall. Just looks like cats failed on their own and broke up and blew down exhaust.
If you cant get a good shearing action to punch out centers, you can use a heavy coat hanger wire straightened and chucked in a drill.
Waller out the cats and leave a little bit of the cats intact on the walls.
Disassemble exhaust enough to empty most of the gutted cats out, make sure and leave a very small amount of cat shrapnel to where it can blown down and get trapped in muffler (no large chunks that rattle, just smaller stuff).

Nobody gets fined for having cats”fail”.

Evidence of cutting open and welding back allows them to throw book at you even if you lawyer up. Montgomery County Texas would love to take your car and fine you $80k.
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