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Whipple car runs bad - tune issues

Ldawn318

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What are your plugs gapped too? What fuel? What do your fuel trims look like?
Does your intercooler system have any air in it?

Everything i listed covers most of the common issues
There gapped to what was recommended, I forgot exactly what it was.
93 Octane from Shell
Unsure on fuel trims
And no air in intercooler to my knowledge. How do you determine that.
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TX-Ripper

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There gapped to what was recommended, I forgot exactly what it was.
93 Octane from Shell
Unsure on fuel trims
And no air in intercooler to my knowledge. How do you determine that.
Fuel trims would help point you to a vacuum leak, as for air in the intercooler system, in my experience it takes multiple days to top it off and get all the air out.

Just because it’s 93 from shell doesn’t mean it’s good gas, your log should show if it’s knocking
 

Ldawn318

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Fuel trims would help point you to a vacuum leak, as for air in the intercooler system, in my experience it takes multiple days to top it off and get all the air out.

Just because it’s 93 from shell doesn’t mean it’s good gas, your log should show if it’s knocking

You have solved my issue sir, it must have been the air in the intercooler. I noticed that the coolant was not to the full line, so I continued to bleed it and top it off and it finally started running right.

I greatly appreciate you sir
 

TX-Ripper

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You have solved my issue sir, it must have been the air in the intercooler. I noticed that the coolant was not to the full line, so I continued to bleed it and top it off and it finally started running right.

I greatly appreciate you sir
Your lucky it bleeds that fast on the mustang, the F-150 system doesn’t have a high point and takes close to 11 days of topping it on first think in the morning cold...

Glad that worked.
 

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TX-Ripper

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Keep checking your IC coolant level cold in mornings. Youd be surprised how much air gets untrapped after your first tip toe spirited driving session.
^^^
 

96gt4.6

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^ x2 on this. Took me about 5 days of driving and checking it in the mornings before it quit falling below the add line. Been at the same level for almost 1k miles now. I was a little worried at first because after each outing I had to add a touch of coolant to the intercooler system, but it finally stopped dropping.

In my experience the Whipple tune has been beyond awesome.

Dyno'd 643 RWHP on the stage 1 kit, car is entirely stock less the Whipple kit and on pump gas.

Driveability has had -0- issues for me, and being an OEM technician I am super picky about how the car drives. Runs entirely stock until you put your foot down.
 

TX-Ripper

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That’s what these forums are for, all of us sharing knowledge/experience.
 

involutions

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You have solved my issue sir, it must have been the air in the intercooler. I noticed that the coolant was not to the full line, so I continued to bleed it and top it off and it finally started running right.

I greatly appreciate you sir
HI,
How is your car running now? Did filling the intercooler fix it, or are you still having trouble?
 

involutions

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I'm the OP. After much effort starting with Whipple, then Lund without a resolution, I bought HP Tuners, the Coyote Cookbook tuning guide, and took a tuning course. There was a lot to learn about how the PCM works in the s550, and I still have more to learn. In any case, I believe I have found the cause of the stumbling/surging weirdness and have fixed it.

I noticed first that my timing was rapidly jumping back and forth about 4 degrees whenever the car was stumbling. To those with some HP Tuner's experience, my "Spark Source" was jumping between "Borderline" and "Torque Control" modes. In general, torque control mode is pulling timing. The trick was to find out why it was happening. After reading many forum posts and endless hours of research, I found that the manual transmission cars have something called "Anti-Shuffle logic." I have not seen any information as to exactly what this does, but the consensus is that turning it off is kind of a cure-all for a bunch of strange behaviors folks have with their specific tunes.

I turned it off, and voila, my timing ain't jumping around any more.

The tune I am running is based off Whipple's "v7" tune with PE coming in sooner than 90% throttle. I have also made a bunch of other tweaks here and there, including tailoring my accelerator pedal feel and throttle response to be exactly how I want it.

The moral of the story always ends up the same for me. If you want something done right, do it yourself.

PM me if you want my tune file....

John
Hi there,
If you are still following this thread, would you say the Anti-shuffle made the biggest difference? I'm having similar issues with my 2015 and a Stage 1 Gen 4.
Thanks.
-Tom
 
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Whipple SC

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Hi there,
If you are still following this thread, would you say the Anti-shuffle made the biggest difference? I'm having similar issues with my 2015 and a State 1 Gen 4.
Thanks.
-Tom
2 things we found overtime, and only on manuals:

1. If you have an open grille feeding a plastic airbox, meaning, different than stock which gets it major source of air from the front center grille section, then this can cause a great deal of false signals to the MAF sensor. This can greatly affect tip in and steady state to accel/decel driving. The MAF hz, when wrong, will jump all around so the signal is "noisy".
2. Cat light-off. We have to do this for emissions, this can clamp one side of torque control until cat is lit.

Anti shuffle could help in some cases, but it can also create other issues.

Anyone that has an issue, has a plastic air box and has an open grille should try to duct tape the side duct that feeds the airbox and see if it resolves the issue. If it does, the airbox needs a diverter before the filter so it doesn't create turbulence. Depending on the data logger, you can also log MAF hz and watch for a noisy signal.

Thanks
 

involutions

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2 things we found overtime, and only on manuals:

1. If you have an open grille feeding a plastic airbox, meaning, different than stock which gets it major source of air from the front center grille section, then this can cause a great deal of false signals to the MAF sensor. This can greatly affect tip in and steady state to accel/decel driving. The MAF hz, when wrong, will jump all around so the signal is "noisy".
2. Cat light-off. We have to do this for emissions, this can clamp one side of torque control until cat is lit.

Anti shuffle could help in some cases, but it can also create other issues.

Anyone that has an issue, has a plastic air box and has an open grille should try to duct tape the side duct that feeds the airbox and see if it resolves the issue. If it does, the airbox needs a diverter before the filter so it doesn't create turbulence. Depending on the data logger, you can also log MAF hz and watch for a noisy signal.

Thanks
Thanks for the info.
My car is 100% stock except for the Whipple kit. There are no modifications other than what was required for the installation. Any other help would be appreciated.
-Tom
 

Whipple SC

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Thanks for the info.
My car is 100% stock except for the Whipple kit. There are no modifications other than what was required for the installation. Any other help would be appreciated.
-Tom
Best thing to do is to use the Tomahawk tool, use the "Whipple List" and data log the area of concern, then go to our website, create a support ticket and the techs will review to see if there is anything that can be done to help.
 

involutions

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We've been selling the same kit for 3 years and cal hasn't changed for over a year. Your safe to order :D
Unfortunately, even two years later, the problem seems to persists across multiple Ford platforms including Mustang, GT350, F150, and Raptor. Whipple NEVER seems able to fix this, and there are people in this thread who have resolved the driveability issue with a 3rd party tune. So, I would argue that you are not "safe to order."
 
 




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