Whipple belt chirp

Discussion in 'Forced Induction - 5.0L V8 Engine' started by Kyle0995, Aug 31, 2016.

  1. pro 5.0

    pro 5.0 Well-Known Member

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    I confirmed that the provided spacer is .390 from the back face to where the step is where the bearing rides, I put a straight edge across the back mounting point of each tensioner and this is the result. I could not get an accurate measurement of the gap difference as the edge of the pulley is too narrow but there is a variance of about .025 - .030 from what I could measure with clay at the widest point. 1.jpg 2.jpg
     
  2. pro 5.0

    pro 5.0 Well-Known Member

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    I have a laser alignment tool good luck getting that in there is no clear line of sight to show a laser line. Only true measurement I could get was with a straight edge from the crank pulley to blower pulley.
     
  3. Whipple SC

    Whipple SC Well-Known Member
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    #318 Whipple SC, Jan 12, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2017

    You can measure sc pulley to tensioner easily and vice versa. Just remove the smooth pulleys. Smooth pulleys aren't critical for measurement.

    If you measure the tensioner from face to mounting surface, it should be 2.014". The gap between the arm and body is .028" if you have a feeler gauge.

    When was the system purchased? Is the rear idler spacers pressed or loose fitting?

    When measuring the pulley in both tensioners, was the idler the same direction as the guards are not even. Centerline is the same but the edges are not. From image it looks like they are flipped. The cast tensioner is just that, no machined surfaces so its hard to get a good measurement off it.

    Let me know.
     
  4. pro 5.0

    pro 5.0 Well-Known Member

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    The system was purchased in Oct 2016 it has the updated loose fitting stands between the main bracket and the wp/tc and the new shorter belt routing. The spacers for the smooth idlers are interference fit by hand, the grooved pulley that rides on the tensioner has zero offset to it. When I did those 2 comparison shots on both tensioners the pulley orientation was identical, the cast tensioner arm is tweaked that is why the gap is smaller on one end. I already had a .035 shim between the main bracket and the supercharger I am now in the process of increasing that to the .070 you recommended. I will put it all back together and fire it up and see where we stand.
     
  5. 4orceFed

    4orceFed Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for taking the time to respond.
     
  6. Burkey

    Burkey Well-Known Member

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    Are there issues with the 10 rib also or is it exclusively a six rib issue?
     
  7. Project Whitemare

    Project Whitemare GTFO Squad

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    I'm seeing that other have received theirs and I live here in CA, so I would have expected mine by now. I've been working with William and have been reassured that I was on the "list".

    However, I see mention of a voucher in this thread. I've never received a voucher.

    I just want to make sure that I get my tensioner as soon as possible. If I need to provide you with any other info, just let me know.
     
  8. Whipple SC

    Whipple SC Well-Known Member
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    Wait did you have a shim in here when you started? If so please remove first and try that. You can use the same belt. If it has an issue it will happen immediately.
     
  9. Whipple SC

    Whipple SC Well-Known Member
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    The noise could affect both.
     
  10. Whipple SC

    Whipple SC Well-Known Member
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    Anyone who has a noise issue gets a replacement tensioner if requested.

    As for a voucher, we updated the cal roughly 4-6 months ago and ones that had experienced a hesitation updated there cal.
     
  11. pro 5.0

    pro 5.0 Well-Known Member

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    Before I got the billet tensioner I was instructed by Mike to put a .035 shim between the blower and the bracket in the 12 o clock position, they said that would solve the issue. Couple of things :

    My new tensioner body measures 1.987 from mounting surface to the face not the 2.014 you stated. The .028 gap is correct.

    I installed the .070 shim at the top of the bracket like you stated and here is the results pic's attached. It is obvious that putting the shims in made the problem worse so tomorrow I am going to remove the .070 shim and start from square one and see what happens.

    I posted up a pic of the belt miss alignment from the smooth idler to the water pump pulley, I have not got a straight answer on that is that miss alignment normal or not ? Also my belt walks fore and aft about .060 to .070 is that normal ? 6.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg 3.jpg
     
  12. sigintel

    sigintel Well-Known Member

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    Hell yea that tensioner looks sharp!
     
  13. Whipple SC

    Whipple SC Well-Known Member
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    I would recommend removing the shim and starting back at base. I noticed you have an ATI as well. It would be good to use the Gates laser alignment tool on that as we have come across the balancers to vary during installation as its a very tight press.
     
  14. DrDing.Muscle

    DrDing.Muscle Well-Known Member

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    Here is some pics of mine. Not sure this will help but its hard to get down in there and get good pics. I have the 6 rib belt setup and I do not have any squealing or chirping and hopefully I don't get any. I too am running the ATI balancer. IMG_0238.jpg IMG_0237.jpg IMG_0236.jpg IMG_0235.jpg
     
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  15. Roh92cp

    Roh92cp Well-Known Member

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    My belt rides on the back of all the idler pulley's, but seems to all be inline.
     
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