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Whipple 132MM Eliptical TB & 1st Gear Boost

cmylxgo

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I've got a Whipple Stage 2 setup with their 132MM Eliptical Throttle Body on an Automatic car. I've noticed that at part throttle when you want to carry the RPMs of first gear to 4 to 5 thousand, my car makes no boost until around 3500rpm and then I see 12 psi instantly and blow the tires off. This driving behavior could happen when pulling out of gas station or a parking lot and trying to get into traffic. But when the boost comes on so fast and hard if you are not careful you could spin out, especially when its wet out. My wife will not drive the car anymore as this has scared the sh!t out of her. It's done it to me a few times and I have had to change my driving habits to keep myself safe with all this power.

I was wondering if anyone else noticed this kind of behavior running the larger throttle body. I'm thinking its due to the massive throttle body and the hairline trigger of the bypass valve. It could also be the ramp up rate on the drive by wire throttle control. Any feedback would be helpful.

Thanks.
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Do you turn traction control off ? I cant get my car to spin one bit leaving the traction control, Im manual though but first gear wot it wont spin out
 
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cmylxgo

cmylxgo

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Do you turn traction control off ? I cant get my car to spin one bit leaving the traction control, Im manual though but first gear wot it wont spin out
With TC on I can power through it and get the wheels to spin. The auto has a HUGE 1st gear and I also have 3.55s.
 

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I wonder if it works different on a automatic,because Ive tried on wet roads and I can even go wot there and the tc flashes at the dash but wont spin out unless I turn tc off
 
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cmylxgo

cmylxgo

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[MENTION=11970]v8ter[/MENTION] taking traction control out of the equation do you exhibit similar behavior with boost in first gear with your stick shift car?
 

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You do realize you now have 700-800hp car? I have first gear down 25%, and I still don't get on it in 1st. You realize you are complaining of having too much power after you installed a whipple supercharger? It makes near instant boost as you put the throttle down.
 
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cmylxgo

cmylxgo

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Yes I am aware I have 800hp and I am not complaining. I've owned 15 different Mustangs and they all have had boost, with the exception of 1. My cars have made anywhere from 5lbs of boost all the way to 35lbs of boost. I know how to drive these cars. My 13 with a Roush blower running the stock TB did not experience this no boost until 3500rpm I'm talking about. From a dead dig if I give the car approx. 1/4 throttle to carry first gear to lets say 5000 rpm the car makes no boost through the first 3500rpm and then at 3501RPM it makes 12PSI. That inrush of power so quickly is hard to control.

I'm trying to understand where and why the car is behaving like this...could it be the huge 132MM throttle body? Could it be the by-pass valve spring being to heavy? Could it be the drive-by-wire calibration?

I started this thread to find out if others running similar mods see the same behavior. I want to understand it and make my drivability safer and better. Also, being able to control the power to the wheels will make a difference in whether you win or lose a race.
 

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I don't have a boost gauge, but its pretty abrupt in first gear. I would suggest using the flight control and turning first down, makes all the difference, and I go quicker on the stock tires down the track.
 

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Yes I am aware I have 800hp and I am not complaining. I've owned 15 different Mustangs and they all have had boost, with the exception of 1. My cars have made anywhere from 5lbs of boost all the way to 35lbs of boost. I know how to drive these cars. My 13 with a Roush blower running the stock TB did not experience this no boost until 3500rpm I'm talking about. From a dead dig if I give the car approx. 1/4 throttle to carry first gear to lets say 5000 rpm the car makes no boost through the first 3500rpm and then at 3501RPM it makes 12PSI. That inrush of power so quickly is hard to control.

I'm trying to understand where and why the car is behaving like this...could it be the huge 132MM throttle body? Could it be the by-pass valve spring being to heavy? Could it be the drive-by-wire calibration?

I started this thread to find out if others running similar mods see the same behavior. I want to understand it and make my drivability safer and better. Also, being able to control the power to the wheels will make a difference in whether you win or lose a race.

I had similar experience after initial install. I installed updated bypass from Whipple, problem fixed.
 
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cmylxgo

cmylxgo

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I had similar experience after initial install. I installed updated bypass from Whipple, problem fixed.
Just got off the phone with Whipple...they have my blower in for service due to a bent jack shaft and they said they installed the updated heavier spring on the bypass valve. This will most likely help, if not solve, my issue I'm reporting. Blower will back to me sometime on Friday and will have it back on by Saturday and will test it out.

-Cmy
 

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how you bend the jack shaft?
 
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cmylxgo

cmylxgo

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how you bend the jack shaft?
I was wrong...the shaft was not bent. I just got this back from Whipple...

The run out was out of tolerance. This was a mfg'ing defect.

This gave the appearance the shaft was bent since my blower pulley had a wobble to it. I posted some videos of it in the belt chirp thread.
 

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[MENTION=11970]v8ter[/MENTION] taking traction control out of the equation do you exhibit similar behavior with boost in first gear with your stick shift car?
My car even at leaving the software at full power does not behave nothing like that, I can drive my car like stock but it has better throttle response, my gf can even drive it and she use to always kill the engine when leaving from a stop. As long I dont get over 40-50% throttle the car behaves just like stock
 

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I would try it in rain mode, throttle response is turned down then and see if they can adjust it maybe with that
 
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cmylxgo

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Got the blower back from Whipple last night and was able to get it reinstalled this evening. They swapped in a heavier spring for the bypass valve while they were servicing the blower. I took the car out for some test hits and drove it to the local High School Football game tonight and I'm happy to report I have yet to experience the 0-12psi boost from 3500rpm to 3501rpm. I'll report back in a couple of days after I've had some more seat time. But it looks like my issue has been resolved.

-Cmy
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