Which camber plates, mm or vorslag?

[JAJ]

Is Gingerman hard on tires? That first one looks pretty used up after 75 laps, which is what, 170 miles or so?

If you're using temperatures, then you should be able to find the right setup regardless tire wear.

Here's a shot of the tires I ran last year - 500 track miles and probably 2500 more to and from the track:

It's a Continental ContiForceContact - I ran 305/30x19 square on 11" rims last year and grip was on par with MPSC2's. I rotated them every two events, and they wore like iron, although they did eventually heat-cycle out at around 25 cycles.

I've got a new set of MPSC2's in the garage with one track day on them and they don't look this good!

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[Mustang_Eh]

yeah, I get it, i'm also going by temps though... and IMO the wear isn't right even for the compound differences, but let me know your thoughts, this is after 75 laps at gingerman:

What is considered "done" on these tires? I'm also running 305 CUP2s that came on my PP2 and noticing outside wear is getting low. It would be helpful to know instead of cording them on track.

 

[jmn444]

yeah the "new" pic is from a stack of new ones i have waiting for when the current ones in the worn pic are dead... I was looking for feedback if the -2.6 camber wasn't enough for them as I suspect....

 

[honeybadger]

What is considered "done" on these tires? I'm also running 305 CUP2s that came on my PP2 and noticing outside wear is getting low. It would be helpful to know instead of cording them on track.

Run them till cords show

 

[jmn444]

gingerman isn't horrible on tires, I've made it a full season on cheap federal rsrr's on my 2014 gt....

correct, it's about 170miles...

good to know the conti's are a long lasting tire!

 

[jmn444]

Those two last posts are different tires..

oops, you were right... i snapped the pic of the wrong stack of tires! those were some used super sports.... sorry about that! edited my orig post...

 

[JAJ]

gingerman isn't horrible on tires, I've made it a full season on cheap federal rsrr's on my 2014 gt....

correct, it's about 170miles...

good to know the conti's are a long lasting tire!

Sadly, Conti discontinued them in 2015 or so - those were 2014 stock that I bought at clearance prices. I was running -1.8 degrees front with zero toe, by the way. I've changed it up to -2.0 this year. Wear and temps on the Pirelli's I'm running this year suggests that it's about right.

 

[MikeR397]

Run them till cords show

Yep, considering there is no holes in the sport cup 2 like slicks and the outside wear bar disappears for me entirely after 2 days, it’s a bit of a guessing game until you get enough data. For me it’s 4 days on fronts. The tiny ass outside groove disappears entirely after day 2, during final day 4 they will start to “chip” tiny little flecks out of the outside, then next session they will “chunk” bigger pieces out, then next session about 2” of the outside will rip away to the chords and that’s the day.

One tip to help is rotate left and right front wheels. I do this after each event or two. The driver front gets the most punishment. When I saw it start chipping the other day I moved it to the passenger side and fortusbrly got my full day run in, but they do get a little slippery as chords start coming and you don’t want to push it too much at this point and get a blowout.

This also obviously depends very much how hard you push the car. A pro driver probably wouldn’t get three full track days on a set of fronts.

 

[Mustang_Eh]

Run them till cords show

Thanks for your reply. Do they grip or

Yep, considering there is no holes in the sport cup 2 like slicks and the outside wear bar disappears for me entirely after 2 days, it’s a bit of a guessing game until you get enough data. For me it’s 4 days on fronts. The tiny ass outside groove disappears entirely after day 2, during final day 4 they will start to “chip” tiny little flecks out of the outside, then next session they will “chunk” bigger pieces out, then next session about 2” of the outside will rip away to the chords and that’s the day.

One tip to help is rotate left and right front wheels. I do this after each event or two. The driver front gets the most punishment. When I saw it start chipping the other day I moved it to the passenger side and fortusbrly got my full day run in, but they do get a little slippery as chords start coming and you don’t want to push it too much at this point and get a blowout.

This also obviously depends very much how hard you push the car. A pro driver probably wouldn’t get three full track days on a set of fronts.

Yep, since the tires don't have a rotational direction I figured rotating them is a good idea, especially since my track is a lot harder on the left side. I definitely do not push the car 10/10 and so far did around 5000km and 3 track days on the tires. I no longer drive on them outside of the track and bring my daily set with me, so I'll keep running them until cords.

 

[k4show]

Does anybody else use the maximum motorsports plates for trackside alignment? I have mine installed and they were extremely difficult to move especially with the weight of the tire on them. Even with it removed it took two people to get them moved to max camber for a track day (-2.7 deg or so).

 

[MikeR397]

I just jacked my front up, loosened the 3 strut tower nuts, easily pushed the strut in (above the wheel) and my steeda plates touching the inside of the tower is -3 degrees on the alignment I just did. Toe needed a little adjustment after my manual adjustment.

Now how can I get my rear past -1.1 degrees?

 

[MikeR397]

Looking better with negative 3 degrees now. Passenger front nearly even wear and even temps. Driver front probably needs -4.5 degrees to wear even and still is 15-20 degrees hotter on outside of tire after a session.

Anyone know how much more steeda plates can go if I notch the strut tower (the are touching tower now and measure -3 degrees)?

Pics after two track days last weekend of fronts.

 

[jmn444]

camber bolts will get you another -1.3 of negative up front... $30 and a bit of a pain to knock the oem bolt out of the spindle...

 

[MikeR397]

Can I just bolt in the driver side front strut? How funky will it handle on the street like that? It’s 85% track car though.

I just put the plates in but don’t recall if the bolts can be swapped without removing the caliper? Guess it’s a good thing I just added the caliper studs when doing a pad change.

 

[jmn444]

I don't think you'd want THAT much variance on a road course car side to side. Mine is like .3 diff just because i couldn't get more on the pass side.

I'm pretty sure i did the camber bolts with the calipers off, but honestly can't remember for sure at the moment... be sure to put a nut back on the caliper stud to protect the threads IF you do take off the calipers... it's all in close proximity and you need a big sledge to knock the old bolt out... took a lot of little careful swings to finally get them out. They are splined, don't try to impact them out!

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