When did Ford change the recommended engine oil for the GT?

[luca1290]

That has to be for special use purposes. Unfortunately I cannot read Italian.

No special use purposes, it's their reccomendation for engine oil that contradicts the oil filler cap.

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[luca1290]

Edit. Found this.
https://www.fuchs.com/fileadmin/sch...oil_from_FUCHS_for__FORD_M2C950-A_01-2017.pdf

Then again. See post 18.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...commended-engine-oil-for-the-gt.157804/page-2

Wait, what.... Ford is reccomending a DIESEL engine oil in the EU Mustangs to shave a little bit of fuel consumption??

 

[Nodster]

@luca1290 I'd personally just stick in Shell Helix Ultra Professional AF 5w-30 Fully Synthetic.

As @Skye says, the difference between 0w and 5w is minimal for flow and thickening when cold. I think 5w is like -25ºC and 0w is -30ºC. I think ACEA C2 also meets A5/B5 specification. I believe ACEA C2 is more specific for exhaust systems with particulate filters.

ACEA C1
Largely based on the ACEA A5/B5.

ACEA C2
Same as C1 but with somewhat higher SAPS content permissible.
These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life and maintain the vehicles fuel economy.

...all much of a muchness!

 

[luca1290]

I believe ACEA C2 is more specific for exhaust systems with particulate filters.

Re-reading your post made me realize that we have something our American brothers don't: GPF.
That's why Ford is recommending that diesel oil for the European Mustangs.

I really really don't like the idea of putting diesel oil in that car.

 

[Vlad Soare]

I really really don't like the idea of putting diesel oil in that car.

I wouldn't say that. As long as the oil meets the manufacturer's specifications, it's going to be fine. The fact that a certain specification just happens to suit diesel engines doesn't mean it isn't suitable for gasoline.
Personally I would stay with 5W30. Unless you regularly see temperatures of -30 degrees Centigrade or lower (which I don't think you do in Italy), there's no need for 0W. But it won't hurt either. The thinner it is upon a cold start, the better. Once the engine has warmed up they're both the same anyway.

 

[luca1290]

I wouldn't say that. As long as the oil meets the manufacturer's specifications, it's going to be fine. The fact that a certain specification just happens to suit diesel engines doesn't mean it isn't suitable for gasoline.

Generally speaking, yes. But what I think happened in this particular instance is a little different.
What I think happened is that Ford does not have any oil that meets the ACEA C2 specification for use in the 5.0L Coyote engine inside the EU territory.
They need a ticker oil from what they run on the smaller EcoBoost 1 liters so they went for the nearest usable oil they already have in their supply chain. It will surely be fine for the warranty period AND if you drive your car like a pensioner.
But the stresses and the temperatures a oil will see in a Mustang are a little different than the ones seen inside the engine of a Transit van or a Ford Focus 1.5.
The Euro version of the manual does not indicate a different oil for track use, where the american one does. They don't care about your engine that much, this is all regulatory blabbering.
As far as my reasoning goes, I'm pretty confident that the initial fill in Flat Rock (or perhaps at Windsor, where the engine is built and tested) is carried out with the same oil they use for the american market (and the filling cap states that).

I also took time to review a little better the specifications I found around and every oil I found that are meeting the WSS-M2C961-A1 all have their Sulphur ashes to less that 1%.
The ACEA C2 states that Sulphur ashes must stay under 0.8% to have their certification. So basically the Motorcraft® 5W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil actually meets all the specifications we need here on the other side of the pond, or it's very close to that.
Incidentally the HTHS characteristics of the american oil are better then the ones from "our" manual, so the engine will be better protected.

So what I will do? Import 20 liters of the Motorcraft oil every two years and call it a day. I'm pretty confident I will not harm my GPF (Thank You, Greta, here is a flower for you...) doing this. And by the way.... there is waaaaay more sulphur in the tons of fuel the engine will guzzle between an oil change and that 0.2% different in 10 liters of oil...

All my .2 cents, take it for the value it has.
Sad to see that "ah but the EnVironMenT" takes precedence over technical reasoning. Just for having a minimum understanding of what I'm writing I glimpsed the enormous effort everyone in the automotive industry is doing to squeeze efficiency out of everything and the literal miracles that chemistry and metallurgy are making to comply to legal mandates that are absurd.

 

[Vlad Soare]

You're overthinking it. The engine won't be harmed in the least by using an oil that meets the manufacturer's recommended specifications. Be it under warranty or not.

 

[luca1290]

You're overthinking it. The engine won't be harmed in the least by using an oil that meets the manufacturer's recommended specifications. Be it under warranty or not.

Overthinking is my second name, but sometimes bears fruits.
I subscribe to what you say, that's why I'm sticking with the original specification for this engine (and for sure what it has inside now, at initial fill) rather than the matched one for this side of the pond.

 

[Vlad Soare]

Overthinking is my second name, but sometimes bears fruits.
I subscribe to what you say, that's why I'm sticking with the original specification for this engine (and for sure what it has inside now, at initial fill) rather than the matched one for this side of the pond.

My 2020 Euro manual recommends the same oil that was recommended in the States at the time. That is, 5W-20, with the provision that 0W-20 can be used in extremely cold climates.
You'll be fine with 5W-30, as you will with 0W-30. More important than the viscosity, though, are the API and ACEA specifications. My manual says ACEA A5/B5 or API SN/SN+. What does your manual tell you to use if you can't find WSS-M2C950-A? It must be on the page following the one pictured above.
Personally, I'm using Molygen 5W-20, which is API SN+ compliant.

 

[luca1290]

What does your manual tell you to use if you can't find WSS-M2C950-A? It must be on the page following the one pictured above.

It's in the same page I posted actually, but my fault I didn't translate that.
The manual calls for API SP or ACEA C2.
API SP superseded the API SN/SN+ but the ACEA C2 is a different category altogether from ACEA A5/B5.
The Motorcraft® 5W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil is an API SP certified oil, with WSS-M2C961-A1 Ford certification (the one stated in your manual and in the US version).

I have a couple of questions for you:

1. Does your car have a GPF?
2. Does your manual recommends a different oil for track usage?

I have learnt something yesterday: the owner manuals does not always tells the whole story.
On my Mercedes the Owner Manual prescribes just one type of oil (one of the 0W-20 super-thin oils for make Greta happy). But on the service sheet of applicable oils for model of engine (MB Sheet 223.2 updated 2022) it says that the engine on my MB can use a thicker 5W-30 oil. There is also a warning not to use the thinner 0W-20 oil on older engines because they will get damaged.

Bottom line is: auto manufacturer will recommend thinner oils on engines that can "live with that" to squeeze a little of efficiency out of them, by probably sacrificing longevity in the long run.
I guess a similar approach was applied here in favor of simplifying the stock of oils managed in Ford Europe supply chain.

 

[Vlad Soare]

It's in the same page I posted actually, but my fault I didn't translate that.
The manual calls for API SP or ACEA C2.

My mistake. I missed that.
No need for translation, I can understand it, but I had just missed it.

1. Does your car have a GPF?
2. Does your manual recommends a different oil for track usage?

Yes, it does have a GPF. No, it doesn't recommend a different oil for track use, neither for the 5.0 nor for the 2.3. The only exception mentioned is 0W for extremely cold climates instead of 5W.

The interesting thing is, a 0W oil will never be too thin. Not because of the 0W part, anyway. Even on a hot summer day, a 0W oil will still be thicker during a cold start-up than a SAE 30 oil would be at 100 degrees Centigrade. If the engine is designed for, say, 5W-30, then a 0W-30 will not hurt. Both will be the same at the normal operating temperature, while the 0W will be better (or should I say less bad) at start-up.

I believe mine recommends API SN/SN+ because that's what happened to be the latest, most advanced specification of the time. But since API SP was released in the meantime, it stands to reason that Ford would recommend that now.
An oil that meets API SP will also meet API SN+ and API SN.

 

[WW2]

I'm pretty sure the 21 F150 coyote does. Don't know about the mustang..

I was under the impression that only the F150 with Gen 3 Coyote has cylinder deactivation. I sure hope my 22 GT doesnt have that BS.....

 

[WW2]

Both the f150 and GT are using a belt driven oil pump now, too. That's an interesting change. I guess OPG gears can't be recommended anymore .

I can't stand cylinder deactivation so that part sucks. My educated guess is that cylinder deactivation pushes the mpg up enough to make any slight bump 5w20 gives a moot point. So they can now spec 5w30. That or they feel 5w30 may help mitigate oil consumption issues brought on from cylinder deactivation; even though GM uses 5w30/5w40.

Correct me if I'm wrong, But I believe the mustang does not use the belt driven oil pump or cylinder deactivation...These are only in the F150.....At least I hope so

 

[WW2]

Oh yeah youTube that's always creditable, nothing but the truth and the whole truth.

A catastrophic engine failure cause by the oil used. Can only happen if you run out of oil , or do not change it. Either one of those leaves behind PLENTY of evidence to be found.

Remember, youBoob only shows one side of the story, you're missing the other 2 sides.

So I'd hold my bet ...and BTW Ford did do the work.

Asking what's the point ?

I never let the dealer change my oil ...........

Totally agree, I have multiple horror stories of loose drain plugs, underfilling, overfilling, wrong filter etc. The dealer is the last place I want changing my oil. They use minimum wage crack heads as lube techs. The mechanics are another story. Most are very reputable technicians, but those guys generally dont do the oil changes....

 

[Dfeeds]

Correct me if I'm wrong, But I believe the mustang does not use the belt driven oil pump or cylinder deactivation...These are only in the F150.....At least I hope so

You're not. I made that post a while ago and was in error. My apologies. Now that doesn't include the 2024 s650. I have no idea if that's belt or not.

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