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What's In DFB's Cabinet?

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When I was cleaning the 028 yesterday, the Surfex removed the remaining orange colouring on the recoil cover badge. These painted aluminum badges have a habit of doing this, so I'm not entirely surprised or concerned.

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It does however look a little naked without the orange colouring, so last night I managed to track down a new-old-stock replacement, which I will install once I get the saw back from the Stihl dealer.

028bad103.jpg


There are a couple of versions of these badges, some say "Made in America", some say "Made in Germany" and some have nothing other than "STIHL". The original on mine only had the "STIHL" lettering, however I could only find the "Made in Germany" version.

Either way, just a little detail that will put a finishing touch on this project.

I may also touch up the black STIHL lettering on the sprocket cover, again the lack of colour contrast looks out of place.

028bad104.jpg
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Holiday Project Three - Refurbishing a Briggs & Stratton Carburetor

This is another one of those "one day" jobs. And since I not only burnt the bridge leading to my usual small engine repair workshop, but I also blew it up with several grenades, I have to do these jobs myself now. :wink: (They deserved it by the way, I don't tolerate fools gladly)

Not that I'm complaining, because this is a labor of love with this machine. This mower got me started as a young teenager mowing lawns that would later grow into a professional business. I landed a job mowing lawns for one the richest families in the country with this machine and I practically run the thing into the ground over a number of years. These days, it sits in the garden shed for sentimental reasons, coming out occasionally to mow my own lawns. It really needs a new set of rings, it visibly burns oil and the chassis has been patched back together in a few key places. But I don't care, it's not going anywhere. The rings will have to wait for another day, it clears up as the engine warms up. The carby though had been showing signs of it needing attention sooner rather than later.

IMG-6966.jpg


I'm not going to lie, I was a touch daunted by this project. These 3.5 - 4.0 hp Briggs & Stratton engines are fitted with a diaphragm type carburetor, and have done so from the earliest beginnings of this engine design, right up until they discontinued them in the mid 2010's. Over time, the thin plastic diaphragm loses it's ability to pulsate fuel up into the carburetor, causing a variety of issues including hard starting, rev surge and reduced performance. Mine was showing the beginnings of trouble, it started just fine but would occasionally stumble and then surge. The fact that it lasted over 22 years without issue astounds me. So, with time on my hands, I wanted to learn how to replace this part myself.

This job required some forward planning in terms of ordering the correct parts ahead of time. Again, that burnt bridge meant I couldn't just go and get them from the dealer. In this case, I ordered the diaphragm and gasket set, along with a new set of governor springs, more on that later. I also wanted to replace the primer bulb, but to be honest, it was working just so I decided to just leave that alone.

IMG-6971.jpg


These engines are incredibly simple to work on, all the bolts have easy access and really, a few simple tools are all you need to do pretty much everything on them. Having said that, I'm loving the access to a full set of tools working on these machines, it just makes everything flow so much easier. Investing in a tool set was something I wish I had done a long time ago, having everything in the one spot and ready to grab and go is priceless.

First step, remove the air cleaner. Again, this is a part that was largely unchanged in 50 years they made these engines, mine being made from steel rather the later plastic ones. (Side note - this Sprint 375 was made in the USA before they moved production to China. The side-valve Briggs were cheap engines made cheaply, the Chinese made ones are even cheaper made with thinner castings and more plastic.)

This is what 22 years worth of hard work looks like. I'll never live it down! :facepalm:

IMG-6972.jpg


With the air cleaner housing out of the way, remove the throttle cable from linkage, remove the cable bracket and then remove the two bolts holding the fuel tank to the engine. Again, another design that stayed the same all the way through production, this steel tank will fit on an older engine no problem and vice versa.

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The next step is a bit of a wrangle, you need to gently wiggle the carb off the intake manifold and breather tube while unhooking the governor linkage attached to the throttle plate. Make sure to then remove the intake washer and gromet for safe keeping. No pics of this step, it's kinda a two-handed job not conductive to holding a camera.

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Tank removed. The reason for removing the whole tank from the engine is it permits proper access to the bolts holding the carb to the tank and improves the re-installation of the new gaskets. You really can't do this job with the tank installed.

IMG-6984.jpg


I also chose to remove the pressed tin recoil cover, the later Chinese engines had a plastic shroud covering this part, necessitating the removal of two parts rather than one. :facepalm: I suspect this was as much about making the engine look more modern than it really was.

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I removed this cover to inspect the cylinder fins as well as making sure the intake manifold was correctly secured to the intake port, these engines have a habit of backing the bolts out over time. Mine was fine.

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It was then time for some more cleaning, and I have to say, I was a little sick of messing about with yukky oil covered parts by now. :conf

First step was to remove the carb from the tank.

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I then drained the fuel from the tank. As you can see, she was a bit grotty in there, necessitating a flush out a few times.

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I then cleaned the carb and tank as thoroughly as I could, using lashing of carb cleaner along the way. This was the first time I had used such a product, and yes, it's good stuff. I also removed and cleaned the metal pickup screen, likewise the return tube as it was partially blocked. Other ancillary parts including the breather tube and carb bolts were also cleaned during this step.

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This was the state of the old diaphragm, with the gasket fused to it over time. Certainly not terrible, it was still somewhat pliable, but I could see where it was starting to wear.

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This is the part I was dreading, putting the new parts on the tank and aligning the carb and screws altogether.................but I aced it first go! :rockon:

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Important to note that the diaphragm goes on first, the gasket sitting on top sandwiching the diaphragm between the tank, gasket and carb. Locate the screws loosely at first and then work diagonally to torque them down, helping to prevent warping of the plastic carby.

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Next, I used compressed air to roughly remove the build up of oil and dirt from the engine overall, plugging up the intake manifold for safety. I then decided to install the new governor springs.

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These springs control the speed of the engine, more to the point, they prevent it from revving too hard and therefore preventing a thrown rod. Over time, these springs lose tension and actually prevent the engine from running at the permitted full speed. Replacement while I was in there seemed like a good idea. While I took photos of the correct placement, I just replaced each spring one at a time so that I could keep track of what went where. In this case, I simply cut the old springs off and looped the new ones in.

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It was then time for the recoil cover to be reinstalled, followed by the carb and tank which is again a process of wrangling the tank back into place, hooking up the governor linkage and pushing the carb onto the intake tube. Be sure to have reinstalled the intake o-ring and grommet like this little black duck forgot to do! :facepalm: Reinstall the breather tube and air filter now as well.

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I then reinstalled the throttle linkages. I actually had to make an adjustment to fix a long-term issue with the kill switch, the cable not pushing the throttle plate forward enough to make contact with the switch. Another little issue finally fixed!

With the engine all back together, it was time to fill the tank with fresh fuel and fire it up. A few pushes of the primer and two pulls on the rope and the engine burst into life. The smile on my face was epic at this point, I DID IT!! :rockon:

With the new diaphragm and governor springs, the engine was running STRONG, a little too strong to be fair. So, off with the air cleaner again and few small adjustments to the governor tab with needle nosed pliers, bringing the engine speed down to a more appropriate level, verified with my new digital tachometer.

Once warmed up, I then changed the oil. I typically use Penrite Small Engine Synthetic 10W-30 in my 4-stokes, however I consciously stick with SAE30 for this aging engine. This is a monograde mineral oil that has been used for decades by Briggs, probably specified to account for their wide tolerances.

IMG-7016.jpg


One last mechanical thing to take care of was re-torquing the head bolts to 13.75 ft lbs, the ones on the exhaust side of the engine have a habit of backing out over time.

A quick clean and lashings of Meguiar's Hyper Dressing and the old Victa is looking and running much better. (See, there is a detailing link here! :giggle:)

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The worst part of this job, like the chainsaw, was the cleaning. It's a messy, smelly job that just sucks. But the satisfaction of putting clean, new parts back onto the engine was very rewarding, and having it fire up and run like new was even better. Not to mention acing a job I had been frightened of doing myself! :rockon:
 
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Ok, back to detailing.

I noticed the Mustang had picked up some sort of funk on the glass, so an impromptu rinse-less wash followed.

The car was otherwise clean, so I decided to try out my new TRC Ultra Black Sponge.

The Rag Company – Ultra Black Sponge (detailingshed.com.au) (AUS)
The Rag Company Ultra Black Sponge – CleanandShiny (UK)
Ultra Black Sponge | The Rag Company (USA)

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I cannot even remember the last time I used a "sponge" to clean a car, so you can imagine I was hesitant to use this thing. The Ultra Black Sponge (UBS) was designed with rinse-less washing in mind but can also be used with more traditional bucket and soap washing too. The sponge has laser cut grooves on both sides, creating a multitude of square "fingers". The theory being that contaminants are emulsified and forced into the grooves, which are then released into your bucket when rinsed. The actual sponge material is unlike any regular sponge available for a couple of dollars at a chain store, being extremely smooth dense.

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Today, I teamed the UBS with P&S Absolute. One thing I have noticed with Absolute is that it will mix better when added to warm rather than cold water in the bucket, eliminating the "clumping" that can occur with this product.

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Typically, I use the multiple towel method when rinse-less washing, the fact a dirty towel never re-enters the bucket means your wash solution stays clean. The UBS is used like any other wash mitt or pad, you dunk the sponge into the bucket, wring it out until just dripping and then make your passes across the paint. You then rinse out the sponge in the bucket, against the grit guard if required, and then start the next section.

I then followed up with Bead Maker while I dried the car. Brilliant combination and super user friendly.

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Like rinse-less washing in general, I would probably pick my mark with the UBS. Overall, I actually liked using the UBS, certainly departure for me in terms of both soap washing and rinse-less washing. It also removes a lot of hassle in regard to towel management.
 

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I did the same with mine, using Carpro DLUX. I did not have the patience to do each and every opening in the honeycomb grill though......................even I have a limit. :giggle:
Is there any need to clean off any prior detailing products from the plastic external areas like sills or the scuttle panel below the wipers? Since I have only ever used water-based products I doubt that there is much on the surface, though I do note that the sills are somewhat hydrophobic. I want to do them all with Carpro Dlux and don't want to waste it.
If you think cleaning is necessary, what would be a good cleaner to use?
 
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Is there any need to clean off any prior detailing products from the plastic external areas like sills or the scuttle panel below the wipers? Since I have only ever used water-based products I doubt that there is much on the surface, though I do note that the sills are somewhat hydrophobic. I want to do them all with Carpro Dlux and don't want to waste it.
If you think cleaning is necessary, what would be a good cleaner to use?
When I did this, I used APC to deep clean the plastics, making sure to rinse the chemical off the materials afterwards. I then wiped them down with Carpro Eraser, which they recommend leaving to fully evaporate for 15 - 20 minutes.

In that case, I used Auto Finesse APC, but I now use Koch Chemie Green Star, also look at Meguiar's D101, Carpro MultiX or P&S APC.


Full write up here -
CarPro DLUX Trim Coating | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com
 

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When I did this, I used APC to deep clean the plastics, making sure to rinse the chemical off the materials afterwards. I then wiped them down with Carpro Eraser, which they recommend leaving to fully evaporate for 15 - 20 minutes.

In that case, I used Auto Finesse APC, but I now use Koch Chemie Green Star, also look at Meguiar's D101, Carpro MultiX or P&S APC.


Full write up here -
CarPro DLUX Trim Coating | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com
That's great info. Thanks once again for spreading the knowledge!
 
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A recent order arrived earlier this week, including two new product additions from Carpro.

IMG_7058.jpg


Carpro DarkSide and Release were both launched late last year, and as usual, it took a fair while for them to become available to Australian customers. I will cover Release another day, so I will focus on Darkside for now.

CarPro Darkside – Waxit Car Care (AUS)
CARPRO DarkSide Tire & Rubber Sealant 500ml (17oz) (carpro-us.com) (USA)

IMG_7061.jpg


DarkSide is one of three products that Carpro sell for enhancing the appearance of tires -

Perl - a water based Si02 enhanced dressing for a wide variety of interior and exterior surfaces depending on dilution. Perl's versatility sets it apart, suitable for use on interior plastics, leather, exterior trim and yes, tires. It's water based formula does limit it's longevity, especially on exterior surfaces, including tires. This has been a staple for many over a number of years now for it's ease of use and the appearance it achieves.
CARPRO » Perl

Black-Out - a tire and rubber polysiloxane ceramic coating that was added to the Carpro range a couple of years ago. This product has a 6-month claimed durability, ideal for those who want to apply something and not have to bother reapplying as regularly as Perl. Carpro also make reference to self-cleaning abilities along with high salt and chemical resistance. I have heard mixed results with this product, some like it, others don't see the point.
CARPRO » CQUARTZ BlackOut

DarkSide - This is the latest in the trio, a product that sits in the middle of Perl and Black-out in terms of durability, with up to 3 months of longevity. In a technical sense, this makes DarkSide more of a sealant than a dressing. Key features include self-cleaning abilities, hydrophobic properties, UV protection and chemical resistance. The finish is described as a "satin black shine" and the liquid consistency of DarkSide is runnier when compared to the cream like consistency of (undiluted) Perl.
CARPRO » DarkSide

Application and Usage Notes -

IMG_7193.jpg


- The success or otherwise of a tire dressing is in the prep. Slapping the dressing on quickly and thickly will increase the likelihood of the product failing or washing off earlier than anticipated. Spending some time scrubbing the tires with an appropriate cleaner will remove the buildup of dirt, oils and previously applied dressings or sealants.

- Use a stiff bristle brush with a tire and rubber cleaner to scrub the tires until clean. Look into P&S Undressed or Brake Buster, Adam's Tire & Rubber Cleaner, Shine Supply Wise Guy, Carpro ReTyre or even simply a strong dilution of APC. If the tires have not been cleaned recently, if ever, then continue to scrub and rinse until the product stops turning brown.

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- While water-based dressings can be applied to wet tires, a product like this is best applied to dry tires.

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- For application, use a foam or microfiber pad. I prefer foam for some reason. These Adam's ones are great, especially for larger tires.

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- The supplied pump action dispenser has trouble lifting the product, in which case I recommend fitting a pop-top lid to the bottle to improve application.

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- Darkside is a product that you have to work for, it doesn't have the silky-smooth application that products like Perl and NV Onyx exhibit. Darkside really needs to be worked into the rubber. That doesn't mean it's a bad product, just a different application feel. Work the product into the rubber using firm pressure, making sure to get even coverage.

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- Depending on how heavily you applied the product, you may want to follow up with a towel after 15 minutes to level it down and prevent sling.

The final result from Darkside is very pleasing, producing a uniformly dark, rich satin finish. Additional gloss would be possible with a second coat, however I stopped at one.

Typically, longevity is not my main consideration when I select a tire dressing or sealant, mainly because I tend to chop and change products at each wash. However, I do see why the extended durability of DarkSide would be enticing, so it will be interesting to see how Darkside holds up.
 
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Interesting day! Two deliveries arrived this morning as I was preparing to wash the Ranger. :like:

The first of which was an impulsive, late-night purchase. They were on sale; how could I resist?

https://store.primefinish.com.au/collections/wowos-detailing-products

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Wowo's came to prominence a few years ago when The Rag Company took them on and started promoting, distributing and selling their products. A Scottish brand founded in 2013, TRC were intending on manufacturing the products is the USA. But then Covid hit and those plans were scrapped and the brand discontinued from the TRC lineup. Shortly after the company then changed hands.

I knew the products were well regarded but I never really bothered with them, mainly because of the silly brand name. More on these products soon.

The second order was from my favorite supplier, Detailing Shed.

IMG-7245.jpg


The main reason for the order was for Hydes Serum Rustopper, teamed with a Pressol bottle and label. I suspect I was the first person in Australia to "accidentally" get a bottle of this last year, now it's freely available.

https://detailingshed.com.au/products/hydes-serum-rustopper?_pos=1&_sid=427241b10&_ss=r
https://detailingshed.com.au/products/obsessed-garage-pressol-household-label?variant=43470272397527
https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...white-transparent?_pos=1&_sid=a0a508936&_ss=r

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Next, an upgrade to my pressure washer in the form of a Mosmatic 3/8 quick connect.

https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...m-stainless-steel?_pos=1&_sid=6b8b33048&_ss=r

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This part is fitted to the Kranzle hose outlet, connecting the hose to the gun. My pressure washer was originally sent with a Chinese made brass MTM fitting. Detailing shed now offer Swiss made stainless steel Mosmatic versions, offering a more precise fitting.

IMG-7265.jpg


These fittings do not need Teflon tape, firm torquing and the washer seated in the hose fitting does the sealing. Those washers are considered a consumable so it's a good idea to keep a couple in stock to replace when required.

https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...-ring-replacement?_pos=1&_sid=0b81331c5&_ss=r

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And finally, a new product from The Rag Company, the Ultra Utility Brush.

https://detailingshed.com.au/products/the-rag-company-ultrautility-brush

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I was actually quite surprised at how big this brush is!

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The brush itself was designed for multiple applications including interior cleaning, exterior cleaning, tyre dressing and wheel cleaning. The wooden handle is an interesting decision, I can see this being a weak point if exposed to water a lot.

So, a collection of new products and no delayed gratification, they got put to use straight away!

The Ultra Utility Brush I decided to use as a wheel cleaning brush, it's too big for interior cleaning for my tastes and I really don't use a brush on other exterior surfaces save for wheels and occasionally the engine bay.

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Here, I have teamed it with NV Snow for cleaning the wheels. The bristles are soft enough to be safe while still being effective at cleaning. On a simple wheel design like this, the UUB is a brilliant one step cleaning process, eliminating the need for a separate lug nut brush.

Onto the paint, and I decided to jump right in and try out the Wowo's products, in this case their pH neutral Detailer's Shampoo.

https://store.primefinish.com.au/co...g-products/products/wowo-s-detailer-s-shampoo

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There are a few key factors that lead me to liking a soap -

- A runny consistency which is easy to pour. A tick of approval here for the Wowo's.

- Scent. A pointless factor but important to me. Another tick for Wowo's.

- Be free of additional gloss enhancers or waxes. Tick!

- Foam well. Tick!

- Be ultra slick. Tick!

- Rinse freely. Tick, Tick, Tick!

As soon as I put the wash pad on the paint, I knew instantly that this soap is a winner. As you can see, it just ticks all the boxes. The rinse-off was stunning, moving off the paint with no repeated passes whatsoever. If this product remains available, I will certainly be re-ordering this excellent soap! :like:

Onto the drying aid, Wowo's Showstopper.

https://store.primefinish.com.au/collections/wowos-detailing-products/products/wowo-s-show-stopper

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I sort of knew the outcome here, but I guess you never know for sure until you try. This product is used purely for gloss enhancement, very similar in concept to P&S Dream Maker..............and similar to use as well. And that's the problem, I don't like Dream Maker. For whatever reason, I could never make Dream Maker work for me, Showstopper is similar in that it seems to just smear around too much. You really need to use Showstopper with two towels, one to spread it out and one to buff it clear. And even then, it can still leave steaking. I did not overuse the product either, a few sprays into the towel to prime it and then one or two sprays per panel. Either way, not a product for me.

So, it's one all in terms of today's scoreboard.

Next, Wowo's Glass Cleaner.

https://store.primefinish.com.au/collections/wowos-detailing-products/products/wowo-s-glass-cleaner

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Glass cleaners are a much of a muchness, although there are still standouts among the crowd. This product is ok, delivering streak free results as you would expect. It isn't at the top of my list though, Gyeon Glass Cleaner, Stoners Invisible Glass and P&S Tru Vue still hold those spots.

Score Board - 1 Hit, 2 Misses.

The last product from Wowo's to try was their Interior Finisher.

https://store.primefinish.com.au/co...ng-products/products/wowo-s-interior-finisher

This is an interior quick detailer which offers UV protection and anti-static properties. Again, this was a product that I knew I was going to like the moment I started wiping. For me, I just loved how it wiped on and over the interior plastics, leaving a non-greasy matte finish. The scent is said to be "fresh", my interpterion being that of green apples with touch of mint thrown in for good measure. Again, another product I would re-order, I loved using it! :like:

The Final Scores - 2 winners, 2 Losers.

Last step was to dress the tyres, deciding to use Carpro Darkside again today.

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Once last thing to mention today, pad cleaning.

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I typically soak my pads overnight in Bowden's Microfiber Cleaner, however the last two times I have used Carpro Lift. Being an alkaline product, this would be similar to soaking your pads in APC but with the benefit of being easier to rinse the product out at the end. I then run the pads through the washing machine with P&S Rags to Riches, but to be fair, the Lift did a brilliant job all by itself.
 

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Thanks @DFB5.0 for another epic write up. Was interested to read your views on the UUB and its use as a wheel brush. I'm wondering if it's quite as effective when cleaning concealed nuts, as in the picture your nuts are exposed.

Did you do an initial foam application of the Detailer Soap? If so how would you rate it as a pre-wash? If you get a minute it'd be interesting also to know the pH given recent experience with 'neutral' NV Snow.
 
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Thanks @DFB5.0 for another epic write up. Was interested to read your views on the UUB and its use as a wheel brush. I'm wondering if it's quite as effective when cleaning concealed nuts, as in the picture your nuts are exposed.

Did you do an initial foam application of the Detailer Soap?
If so how would you rate it as a pre-wash? If you get a minute it'd be interesting also to know the pH given recent experience with 'neutral' NV Snow.
We wouldn't want to be cleaning exposed nuts in public would we? :blush:

You would probably use a smaller brush for nicer wheels with recessed lugs. Something like this -
DETAIL FACTORY PREMIUM BOAR'S HAIR DETAILING BRUSHES Long Handle (Grey (detailingshed.com.au)

I reckon this brush would be excellent for applying tire dressing to larger truck and SUV tires like this -

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I only do a pre-wash foam application if the car is really dirty. Typically, I rinse, foam the car and then commence the contact wash. While I do add a small amount of soap into the bucket and any remaining from the foam cannon, the foam is the main source of soap & lubrication.

Interesting to read Wowo's dilution rates for Detailers Shampoo -

RECOMMENDED DILUTIONS:
For Heavy Soiling, dilute DETAILER’S SHAMPOO at 100:1
For Unprotected Paint, dilute DETAILER’S SHAMPOO at 100:1
For Protected Paint, dilute DETAILER’S SHAMPOO at 500:1

This would indicate that the cleaning ability will alter depending on the dilution rate, and therefore perhaps the pH as well. So, with that I went and measured the pH reading of both the concentrate and when diluted. The reading for the undiluted concentrate was around 9.5 while the diluted version rated at about 8.1...........................

IMG-7320.jpg


So, it's readings are higher than pH 7.5 "neutral", which is where the term "pH balanced" comes into the equation with the product description. The difference between the Wowo's and NV Snow is that Snow didn't really respond to dilution, where Wowo's did.

I probably used the Wowo's at closer to the 100:1 ratio today and did not see a degradation of the protection present on the car, the last product applied to the paint was Meguiar's Ceramic Detailer a week ago.

The thing I'm struggling to understand is the lack of consistency when testing the pH of products. Some products respond to the addition of water, increasing or decreasing depending on initial reading, while others remain stable when diluted. I guess this comes down to the ingredients in the product.
 

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The thing I'm struggling to understand is the lack of consistency when testing the pH of products. Some products respond to the addition of water, increasing or decreasing depending on initial reading, while others remain stable when diluted. I guess this comes down to the ingredients in the product.
Indeed, that's what I recalled also from the pH Shootout. FWIW I found this:

Diluting acids and bases
Adding water to an acid or base will change its pH. Water is mostly water molecules so adding water to an acid or base reduces the concentration of ions in the solution.

When an acidic solution is diluted with water the concentration of H+ ions decreases and the pH of the solution increases towards 7.

To make the pH change by 1, a tenfold dilution is required (eg adding 9 cm3 of water to 1 cm3 acid). The acid is becoming less acidic.

Similarly, when an alkali is diluted with water the concentration of OH- ions decreases. This causes the pH of the alkali to fall towards 7, making the solution less alkaline as more water is added.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize/guides/zsmgpbk/revision/3#:~:text=When an acidic solution is,the solution increases towards 7.


This would suggest that the Wowo Soap is alkaline ie adding water reduces pH, although the link indicates a tenfold dilution ratio for a drop of one point whereas if you tested it at 100:1 ish that's nowhere near tenfold. The solutions being used in the example above might also be much more extreme in their pH eg it might hold true for strong acid but not for car soap.

Water couldn't be added to an alkaline solution in sufficient quantities to make it truly acidic as even when the solution has been displaced the pH would still be that of water. So maybe the reason for no pH change in the diluted car soaps is because adding pH neutral water to a relatively pH neutral soap won't affect the pH of the overall solution by a measurable amount given the tools at hand and the dilution ratio.

However, that still doesn't explain why a lot of the soaps didn't change pH on dilution and some did. I thought perhaps there's a very non-linear change at anything outside say 7-8 pH but IIRC that's not borne out by the pH test results. We have everything else on this forum surely there's a chemist here somewhere.

Apologies if that was obvious to you and others but it now makes more sense to me. Another test that might be worth trying, noting the dilution quantities above, is to continually dilute the most alkaline soap you have on hand to see at what point it drops to that of the water.

PS: How'd that Bowden's Snow Foam work on the bin btw? :wink:
 
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Indeed, that's what I recalled also from the pH Shootout. FWIW I found this:

Diluting acids and bases
Adding water to an acid or base will change its pH. Water is mostly water molecules so adding water to an acid or base reduces the concentration of ions in the solution.

When an acidic solution is diluted with water the concentration of H+ ions decreases and the pH of the solution increases towards 7.

To make the pH change by 1, a tenfold dilution is required (eg adding 9 cm3 of water to 1 cm3 acid). The acid is becoming less acidic.

Similarly, when an alkali is diluted with water the concentration of OH- ions decreases. This causes the pH of the alkali to fall towards 7, making the solution less alkaline as more water is added.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize/guides/zsmgpbk/revision/3#:~:text=When an acidic solution is,the solution increases towards 7.


This would suggest that the Wowo Soap is alkaline ie adding water reduces pH, although the link indicates a tenfold dilution ratio for a drop of one point whereas if you tested it at 100:1 ish that's nowhere near tenfold. The solutions being used in the example above might also be much more extreme in their pH eg it might hold true for strong acid but not for car soap.

Water couldn't be added to an alkaline solution in sufficient quantities to make it truly acidic as even when the solution has been displaced the pH would still be that of water. So maybe the reason for no pH change in the diluted car soaps is because adding pH neutral water to a relatively pH neutral soap won't affect the pH of the overall solution by a measurable amount given the tools at hand and the dilution ratio.

However, that still doesn't explain why a lot of the soaps didn't change pH on dilution and some did. I thought perhaps there's a very non-linear change at anything outside say 7-8 pH but IIRC that's not borne out by the pH test results. We have everything else on this forum surely there's a chemist here somewhere.

Apologies if that was obvious to you and others but it now makes more sense to me. Another test that might be worth trying, noting the dilution quantities above, is to continually dilute the most alkaline soap you have on hand to see at what point it drops to that of the water.

PS: How'd that Bowden's Snow Foam work on the bin btw? :wink:
Thank you for the research, certainly more to it than meets the eye.

As for Bowden's, you read my mind................it's next in line. :giggle:
 
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Relaxed day of rinse-less washing while listening to podcasts and music. The only thing annoying me was the smoke generated by a neighbors wood fired heater. We had a cool change here over the last couple of days, not enough that warrants a wood fire burning green wood and smoking out the neighborhood though. Moron! 😡

That cool change brought rolling showers yesterday, so the Jag got caught in that. Now, in a technical sense, the instructions for Gyeon Pure EVO state "do not wash the car with any strong detergents within the first 14 days", I'm at 10 days now. The strong detergent thing I addressed by using a relatively mild rinse-less product, which I'm told is fine. Today, I decided to use Optimum No Rinse and the Ultra Black Sponge. Pre-spray administered by the iK sprayer.

IMG-7374.jpg


I usually use Bead Maker or Paint Gloss as the drying aid after a rinse-less, but I mixed things up by using a new product, Carpro Release.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/carpro-release?variant=40387621322841

IMG-7383.jpg


Carpro Release is a spray wax that was designed as a ceramic coating topper to protect a new coating from water spots, bugs, bird droppings and other contaminants while it cures. Carpro also state that it can be used as a standalone quick detailer, or drying aid in my case. Longevity is minimal as it's been designed wash away with soap, revealing the true characteristics of the ceramic coating underneath.

Application wise, this is like many spray waxes and requires a little more attention than a regular quick detailer. You will need two towels to apply Release streak free, the first towel distributes the product, the second levels it down to perfection. The scent is pleasing, and in my case, added some slickness to the relatively unslick Pure EVO. Overall, I liked using Release and it's price point is extremely competitive, a 500ml bottle only costing $14.95.

Finishing off the Jag, I cleaned the exterior glass with Carpro Clarify, wiped the interior with Auto Finesse Spritz and dressed the tyres with OG Tire Dressing.

With the Jaguar done, I went and swapped it for the XR6, which is next in line for service on Tuesday. Having sat in the storage facility uncovered for a month, it needed a wash to remove a thick layer of dust. Again, rinse-less wash was the chosen method.

IMG-7387.jpg


For the XR6, I switched to P&S Absolute teamed with my rinse-less wash towels.

https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...1&_sid=9df002b8d&_ss=r&variant=18460507897913

Drying aid was Bead Maker, my go to for use with Absolute. This is such a satisfying combination that always make me smile for the gloss and slickness it creates. Same combo was used to clean the wheels.

The glass got cleaned inside and out with Koch Chemie Speed Glass, the engine bay wiped with Absolute and dressed with Hyper Dressing (gotta have it looking good for the mechanic), the interior wiped over with ONR and the tyres dressed with OG Tire Dressing.

With that, I covered the XR6 to keep it fresh for Tuesday.
 
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Last day off. :frown:

With the XR6 in for the 90,000km service for the umpteenth time (with 31,309km on the clock), I settled into a rinse-less wash of the Mustang. No photos of the process, I was too wound up in the podcast I was listening to about a 22-year-old guy killing it at running his own detailing business, getting to work on some pretty expensive machinery.

I feel like in the last two weeks there has been a constant flow of subtle signs in regard to what I do for living. I'm miserable where I am, only staying for the comfort factor of the money it brings in. The longer I have let this go on, the harder it is for me to break the ties. Nothing changes, I get angrier and angrier, explode and then the cycle repeats.

Perhaps that thought train was why I ended up washing the service loan car for something to distract me? :facepalm:

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This Ford Puma ST-Line was dirtier than I would normally like to attempt using rinse-less, but I have had a number of people challenge me to try using the method on a truly dirty car compared to what I normally deal with. So, what better car to try this out on than someone else's? :like:

IMG-7411.jpg


In this case, I decided to use the surfactant based McKees N-914 as I feel this offers more cleaning ability compared to a polymer-based product. Each section was pre-treated beforehand, the TRC UBS as the wash media. I also used an ultra-soft Detail Factory brush on the grills.

IMG-7413.jpg


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I then dried the car using Bead Maker to add a little pop to the paint, N-914 isn't really good for that sort of thing.

Let me say that I was not entirely comfortable doing this wash with the car so dirty. I also decided not to pre-rinse the car before hand, so I was really testing the method to its fullest. Frankly, when a car gets to this point and beyond, I much prefer the use of LOTS of water, soap and rinsing. It just feels safer to me.

That doesn't mean I hate rinse-less washing, I actually love it in fact, but I do think there is a limit to where its safe, effective and time efficient. I actually dumped my wash solution mid-way for some fresh stuff as I was getting concerned it was just too dirty for my liking............and this was on a car I didn't have an attachment too, so that probably paints a picture of how I felt about the process.

After the paint, I pre-sprayed the wheels and used a towel soaked in N-914 to give the wheels a superficial clean. I vacuumed the interior and then wiped everything down with P&S Express, cleaning the glass with Invisible Glass. I then dressed the tyres with Duragloss 253.

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I love the taillight design of the Puma.........

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For the small amount of effort I put into the car, it came up very nice.

And what about the Puma? I really liked it in fact!

(Please keep in mind I am very analytical, my notes here are not necessarily attacking the car or Ford, I just notice things others may not and describe them how I see it.)

This is not the first Puma I have driven, or even the first ST-Line. The way Ford tuned the throttle and torque curve makes the car feel super eager. Granted, the grumpy sounding 3-pot EcoBoost has absolutely no top end grunt, but it's got character, I just wish they gave it a little more induction note to go with the sporty nature of the car.

The 7-speed DCT gearbox is very torque converter-like in how it slurs the gears, which I assume is to make it feel more "normal". It does have that usual DCT feel when launching from rest. That paddles are pretty snappy, the rev matching is good, but the gearbox upshifts automatically at about 6200 rpm, it also ignores driver inputs when turning, a weird characteristic. Having lived with a DCT equipped car before, I know that certain characteristics of the gearbox become second nature after a while.

Overall driving dynamics are great, the ride is excellent, the steering a touch over assisted on initial turn-in but pleasantly weighted and responsive. At speed, the road noise refinement was excellent. The engine does have a little trouble pulling the tall 7th gear from say 80 kph.

While the ST-Line is a mid to high spec for the Puma, I couldn't help noticing that this $30,000 hatch has better interior materials than the $60,000 Ranger I had last week. The steering wheel is a real highlight, feeling great to hold and trimmed in lovely soft leather. I also preferred the dial cluster screen layout in the Puma better than the Ranger too, having a clearer and more logical appearance. Depending on the drive mode selected, normal, sport, eco, slippery or trail, the gauge cluster colouring changes to suit the mood, the blue normal mood is pictured, red for sport.

IMG-7434.jpg


As mentioned, the Puma is a brilliant little car. I refuse to call this an SUV, it's a hatchback to the core and even the seating position and ride height being hatch-like. I also love the softer, organic styling direction Ford took with the Puma, they look even better in red or blue.

I was asked if I wanted to buy a Puma on my return, to which I replied that I liked it so much I washed it for them. Apparently they are looking for a service department detailer. Hmmm.........................
 

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Perhaps that thought train was why I ended up washing the service loan car for something to distract me? :facepalm:
With the greatest of respect, unless they offered you a discount...:crazy:

And...bloody hell it's not THAT far from my place to where you are so give a guy a break next time :giggle:

Apparently they are looking for a service department detailer
Forgive my 2c...I'll wager it might drive you nuts if it's sausage-machine cursory washing and vacuuming filthy cars using big box store products to essentially a sub par standard due to the realities of the business model, including working to push-pull service department and customer timeframes. That would fracture any self respecting OCD person's sense of humour. I'm sure they'd be very happy to have you because you'd do a brilliant job and probably pay half what it's really worth. An option might be to establish a business that works with the dealership for those folks who want a detail you'd be happy to do but then they're taking a cut for use of the premises when you could be doing it from home with all the gear to hand.

What you can bring deserves commensurate reward. FWIW there might be a balance to be found between reducing hours with the current stuff and doing more paid detailing from home to see how it goes.

Not telling you how to suck eggs but there's a potential pitfall to making your distractions your work along the lines of 'never make your hobbies your work' and 'never meet your heroes'.. Essentially, things that we once looked to as pleasant distractions and yearned to do much more of can sometimes turn out to be less fulfilling than we expected when we can do them to the extent we dreamed. Not true for everyone nor in all cases of course!

All part of life's tapestry...ships are safe in the harbour etc...
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