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What to add to cart when buying clutch

Bbarfoot14

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So I have a 15 mustang gt with stage 1 whipple kit with 30k miles. It had stock clutch and seems to start to slip on me.
As I look at the numerous options from Mccloud and spec and others I wonder what is truly necessary when replacing it at my mileage. Do I need a new flywheel with a new clutch? Do I need a new hydraulic throw out bearing? New pilot bearing?
I am on a budget so being unsure of these things I see how this job adds up quick thanks
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ugstang17

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Rule of thumb is to replace all new since you are pulling the tranny. Why risk pulling it twice? Who wants to pull a tranny twice or pay for pulling it twice? Go cheap and you end up paying for it twice either in time spent doigg it twice or paying to have it done twice. FW, Clutch, Hydro TOB, and pilot bearing. While at it look into upgrading the feedline between the slave cylinder and hyrdo TOB.
 
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Bbarfoot14

Bbarfoot14

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Thanks guys, like I always say buy once cry once
 

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Cobra Jet

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Usually some packaged clutch kits will come with:
Clutch disc
Pressure plate
TOB

It depends on who is selling the kit if they include the TOB or not.

Usually if you are in there doing the job, rule of thumb is to replace the TOB and Pilot bearing.

The flywheel usually does not need to be replaced UNLESS there are signs of damage (ie: stress cracks, warpage or damaged teeth on the outer tooth ring for starter). If the flywheel shows some minor surface marks from the clutch disc, you can use a mild abrasive wheel with an air tool and scuff the entire flywheel surface so there is a clean mating surface again between it and the clutch disc.

If the flywheel shows scalding marks, such as a blueish hue that looks “smeared”, then the flywheel has been exposed to extreme heat and it could be warped. Not true in ALL cases, but in some instances that is a sign to look for to determine if you should replace the flywheel.

Flywheels should last thousands of miles (100k+) under normal use and even the occasional drag strip visits.

IF replacing the flywheel you must make sure you get the proper weighted flywheel as the original, because if the flywheel isn’t balanced to the engine you could cause internal damages or feel vibrations.

For instance (and this is merely an example and does not apply to ANY one engine type) if the harmonic balancer is a 50oz balancer, usually the flywheel also has to be a 50oz. If you mix the balance weights between the 2 parts, there is the potential for damage to the crank or bearings from excessive vibes.

Some vendors sell lightweight flywheels; if going that route consult with the vendor (or manufacturer of the part) to see if you will then need to change the harmonic balancer to match the flywheel.

Hope the above was helpful.
 
 




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