What things are likely to "blow" when supercharged?

[stannypack]

doing random research on superchargers/built blocks etc, and it seems like common things that can go wrong when supercharged are:

• ringland failure from tight oem gaps + overheating -> e85 for cooling properties / don't do back to back madman pulls
• broken crankshaft -> have MFP crank support or at least Kinetik crank saver stud kit, maybe belt slip could cause this too so use a higher rib pulley?
• oil pump gears -> seems pretty avoidable to me just don't bounce off the limiter
• cats -> can't pass emissions with lth so not sure what the solution to this would be... I'm assuming roush/whipple base tunes keep all the cat protection stuff
• any other likely issues and solutions

and how does a built short block like say the aluminator protect you from such failures? i.e. what exactly do stronger pistons and connecting rods do, which seem to be the main parts of these built blocks

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[WD Pro]

"What things are likely to "blow" when supercharged?"

The ladies, especially after a good roll race performance ...

Sorry, couldn't resist ...

WD

 

[SpeedLu]

I started with a Lund-tuned Stage II Procharger and stock everything else. Within 3 months I had burned up the stock cats and blew a ring. Now I have catless headers and forged pistons and haven't had an issue for at least 2 years.

 

[MKL_DS]

doing random research on superchargers/built blocks etc, and it seems like common things that can go wrong when supercharged are:

• ringland failure from tight oem gaps + overheating -> e85 for cooling properties / don't do back to back madman pulls
• broken crankshaft -> have MFP crank support or at least Kinetik crank saver stud kit, maybe belt slip could cause this too so use a higher rib pulley?
• oil pump gears -> seems pretty avoidable to me just don't bounce off the limiter
• cats -> can't pass emissions with lth so not sure what the solution to this would be... I'm assuming roush/whipple base tunes keep all the cat protection stuff
• any other likely issues and solutions

and how does a built short block like say the aluminator protect you from such failures? i.e. what exactly do stronger pistons and connecting rods do, which seem to be the main parts of these built blocks

You may want to also consider your clutch as a potential 'blow' point ;)
Not sure what the MT-82 itself can handle.

 

[HKusp]

Ringland failure is probably the most common thing. That .009 gap on the top ring is too tight for the heat that FI can make when doing multiple runs or long duration runs. See the pics below for an example. My stock clutch was on borrowed time as well. I ordered a Vengeance Stage 2 a few weeks ago and it was delivered yesterday. When the new build goes in, the Vengeance is going in behind it.

 

[Andrew@Lethal]

The biggest thing to worry about would be those stock oil pump gears and crankshaft sprocket. Throw some Boundary or MMR gears in there ASAP if you're going boost. https://www.lethalperformance.com/s...g-gt/engine/oil-pumps-billet-oil-pump-gears-1

 

[compprep]

Your bank account! Ask me how I know

 

[Andy13186]

If your tune lets you rev past 8200 or so, (mine was set at 8500) then you can have rocker arm retaining clips come off, 8 of mine came off over 60k miles. One went through a cam and broke a cam cap. I also broke 2 piston skirts somehow. No symptoms noises or power loss, I just found a rocker arm retaining clip on my magnetic oil plug, and then just a cam position sensor code. Then they disassembled and found the damage. Compression test was perfect still despite all this.

 

[furdfan2018]

manifolds

manifolds always blowing!

 

[Zrussian13]

Well if your lucky then unlucky like me you'll go 85k miles problem free on a stock motor and trans. Then a spark plug will break and take out cylinder #3. I really thought I'd get 100k boosted the way things were going...

 

[stannypack]

thanks all, I just got the car a couple months ago and don't plan to go boosted for a while. But trying to decide if it's worth it to beef up my short block before going boost in the off chance something does happen on a stock whipple/roush tune, or just take my chances. Being that it's my daily driver I'm leaning towards reinforcing stuff before it breaks vs having downtime without a car.

 

[HKusp]

Stock Whipple tune or Roush tune, I doubt you will have any issues. They are way soft, with a huge margin of error built in due to being Carb compliant.

 

[beefcake]

nothing if you aren't "drag racing", you should be in good shape, launching at the track or street, drivesahft and half shafts will be your friend!!

 

[mindo389]

Some interesting advice. I used to teach, and one lesson was to learn from other's mistakes. It's cheaper and less painful. Although it's the painful ones are the ones we never forget.

 

[Peter15051]

I agree with Hkusp, if you use Roush or Whipple stock tunes they are really mild. My Roush Phase II is putting around 630 rwhp (750hp crank), and in the realm of modding out these cars that is incredibly mild but still a lot of fun. When the warranty is up I'll likely pursue a custom tune but keep it conservative, I'll be more interested in smoothing out sport and sport+ shifting in the 10 speed auto than adding a ton of power.

That being said, if you have a long term plan and want to upgrade parts ahead of time, I'd call a reputable performance shop and ask them what you should do in advance of SC'ing and that will give you a budget to go off of from someone who actually does the work and knows what will go wrong eventually.

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