What lug nut torque have you settled on?

[Deleted member 35644]

110 is serving me well.

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[AvalancheSVT]

hey so i'm gonna get a lot of hat eon this but whatever.

this very much goes off of feel, i've been doing this this way for more than 2 decades.
EVERY STEP USES THE STAR PATTERN

1. hand thread nuts on
2. ugga dugga them to snug the wheel to the face
3. ugga dugga one round trip (just to get the nuts to stop moving easily)
4. ugga dugga one round trip (just a quick pull)

that's it. never had problems and i push all my vehicles hard.

 

[Cory S]

hey so i'm gonna get a lot of hat eon this but whatever.

this very much goes off of feel, i've been doing this this way for more than 2 decades.
EVERY STEP USES THE STAR PATTERN

1. hand thread nuts on
2. ugga dugga them to snug the wheel to the face
3. ugga dugga one round trip (just to get the nuts to stop moving easily)
4. ugga dugga one round trip (just a quick pull)

that's it. never had problems and i push all my vehicles hard.

Bingo.

 

[Dana Pants]

With OEM wheels, 150 lb-ft.
If an OEM stud breaks at 150 lb-ft, then your torque wrench is out of calibration.

The forbidden mating of 3 torque wrenches suggests calibration is not an issue.

 

[Basspro302]

torque oem parts to oem specs. Its a 14mm stud not 12mm every car i work on with a 14mm stud has a spec of 140 to 150. Torquing them to spec does not cause damage. That stud does not have damage from over torque it would be stretched.

 

[thompsje]

130 ft lbs. It's tight enough and doesn't gall the seats. I've never had a lug nut back off or snapped a stud with 3-4 changes a year. Not exactly track frequency, but often enough.

 

[sigintel]

OP check DM.
Spec is clean and dry stud and nut: 148-150 ftlb
Yes it has been listed both ways in various Ford docs.
Just use can of brake cleaner briefly of both and wipe dry w paper towel or clean rag. Then assemble.

Ford's surveillance of nut and stud materials is extremely good. There is no question of how reliable the wheel and hub assembly is and the robustness of the design even for non mechanically inclined consumers to change a wheel in event of a flat without a calibrated torque wrench.

 

[sigintel]

130 ft lbs. It's tight enough and doesn't gall the seats. I've never had a lug nut back off or snapped a stud with 3-4 changes a year. Not exactly track frequency, but often enough.

Ford had plenty of GT350 owner use less than 135 and they trashed their studs on track. Hot track tire forces are enough grip to create serious amounts of torque on the brakes (yup, and across the wheel/brake/hub sandwich). The only thing keeping the sandwich from rotating against each other even 0.001mm is:
clamping load x coefficient of friction.

ANY rotation will cause bending loads and fatigue damage or failure. Bolts should be pure tension only.

Always torque to design spec.
Never allow any lube, wd-40, anything to get on hub, brake, wheel mating surfaces.
Clean stud and nuts with VOC type brake cleaner (acetone basically) that evaporates clean.
HFC brake cleaner never use on hot parts to avoid creating HFC degrading to HF (hydrofluoric acid theoretically can cause special case of corrosion)

 

[EFI]

The wheel manufacturer gave me a set of lug nuts and said the torque spec was 105ft/lbs.

The torque spec is driven by the stud, not the wheel and/or lug nut. The wheel manufacturer gave you a generic number based on historical values, not anything specific to what you have installed. Maybe you're lucky to be fine with 2/3rds of the required clamping force, but I personally wouldn't try.

 

[TrackMustang]

The torque spec is driven by the stud, not the wheel and/or lug nut. The wheel manufacturer gave you a generic number based on historical values, not anything specific to what you have installed. Maybe you're lucky to be fine with 2/3rds of the required clamping force, but I personally wouldn't try.

I’ve been using it with no issue for over a year now, and although I don’t disagree with determining torque being based on the bolt, this thread exists because it’s controversial at best.

 

[D Bergstrom]

I torque to Ford spec on both my mustang and F-150, 150 ft.lbs. Wouldn’t even consider any other torque value. Have used the manufacturers torque spec for every lug nut I have ever torqued on every vehicle I have ever owned, and any friends vehicle I have ever worked on, never an issue.

Doug

 

[TrackMustang]

The torque spec is driven by the stud, not the wheel and/or lug nut. The wheel manufacturer gave you a generic number based on historical values, not anything specific to what you have installed. Maybe you're lucky to be fine with 2/3rds of the required clamping force, but I personally wouldn't try.

Direct from their website

 

[ice445]

150, that's what it says to do, so I do it. Both on OE wheels and my SVE ones with aftermarket lugs.

 

[Red65]

The factory spec is fine. Even at 150 ft/lbs the seat will not gall as long as it stays clean and the lug isn’t installed with an air impact. I’ve used 130 ft/lbs before and it does work, but again the factory spec works as it should and doesn’t damage the lug, wheel, or stud as long as you do your part properly. Some people want to grease/oil the seat to try and “save” it but that’s one of the worst things you can do with ball and seat style lug nuts. Dry application 100% of the time.

If the 150 ft/lbs spec scares you, you should see the torque spec on my 1991 Ford F800 with budd pattern wheels lol. 450-500 ft/lbs on all 10 lugs

 

[Andy13186]

~1.5-2 second being impacted by my milwaukee high torque

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