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tj@steeda

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@tj@steeda, would it be possible for you or your drag race department to create a a drag race thread on how to setup cars with the 10R80 trans, as well as the MT82-D4, in NA form and with power adders?

It sure would be very helpful to have some good data or reference points to start from, especially for those of us who have invested considerably in Steeda parts to help us run as quick and as fast as our setups will allow. Together, we could grow that thread with some good dialogue.

I personally have just about every suspension part that you guys offer on my 2019 Bullitt such as:

- Subframe braces
- Diff. bushing kit with through bolt kit
- Subframe bushing supports
- Hardcore diff. bracket
- Subframe alignment kit
- Adj. rear camber arms
- Adj. toe links
- Vertical links
- 1 piece driveshaft
- Ford Performance half shafts
- Tri-ax Race shifter
- Adj. motor mounts
- Ultra Spec Viking Inverted double adjustable rear shocks
- 17X10 beadlock drag wheels with 305/45/17 MT ET Street Radials and 18X5 front runner with MT radials

Any help that Steeda can provide in these areas woukd be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
let me run this by Scott and Chris!
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You need a converter. You need more RPM on the leave now. Car dead hooks and leaves straight. Don't change anything in the suspension until your tires can no longer hold. No IRS lock out or braces needed. Stock shocks work great. A converter will instantly drop 2-4 10ths off your ET.
The interesting thing is I get the best times when I don't stall out at all. I just take the foot off the brakes and punch the gas. You think a torque converter would change that on a supercharged engine?
 

Cory S

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The interesting thing is I get the best times when I don't stall out at all. I just take the foot off the brakes and punch the gas. You think a torque converter would change that on a supercharged engine?
Yes. More RPM
at the line before you trip the beam, the better momentum you get before the timer starts. I went from 1.5’s leaving at idle, to 1.3’s leaving on the foot brake at 1800rpm. Obviously a converter comes into play in this scenario.
 

Cory S

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What converter are you running?
It a Circle D 2C 3400 stall, but its a 6R80 piece. You'll have to see what offering for the 10R80 cars there is now. They used to be very slim choices for the 10R80, but I think they have improved upon them.
 

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cahouston

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The interesting thing is I get the best times when I don't stall out at all. I just take the foot off the brakes and punch the gas. You think a torque converter would change that on a supercharged engine?
When you stall it up (~2000 is max I can get without pushing forward), can you tell why it slows down? Wheel spin, bogging, etc?
 
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When you stall it up (~2000 is max I can get without pushing forward), can you tell why it slows down? Wheel spin, bogging, etc?
I guess I've never paid that much attention. Now that you mention it I did not try stalling out after I tuned the car to take first gear again. I know I had a few runs where I had to let of because of wheel spin but looking at some of the videos from those runs it sounds like it might have been bogging. This video I ran an 11.20 still taking off in 2nd gear.

 

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I guess I've never paid that much attention. Now that you mention it I did not try stalling out after I tuned the car to take first gear again. I know I had a few runs where I had to let of because of wheel spin but looking at some of the videos from those runs it sounds like it might have been bogging. This video I ran an 11.20 still taking off in 2nd gear.

Definite dead hook and bogging. Your SLR (starting line ratio) needs to be higher. Are you running a 3.15 or 3.55 gear? If your race weight is between 3950-4100, you want an SLR between 10.9-13:1. You will fight the leave forever without a converter.
 

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The interesting thing is I get the best times when I don't stall out at all. I just take the foot off the brakes and punch the gas. You think a torque converter would change that on a supercharged engine?
Converters will "flash" to a higher stall when you mat the gas, unlike when you load it up against the brakes or a transbrake ,it hits the "stall speed".
Most times it isn't much, but it might be just enough that you are seeing a difference.
My ole school Chevy 355 with a th400 with an off the shelf converter rated at 3500 rpm would stall at 3680 rpm (going off an autometer tach).
but if I foot braked it and left the line launching off idle ,it flash to 3850 rpm.
The tach in question recorded data to play back later .
On the happy gas it flash to 4140
 

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I'm not even sure what gear ratio my car has. I will check on that though. The last video I uploaded when you said it was definitely bogging was when the car still started off in 2nd gear. I guess I will save for a torque converter now. Thanks for all the help guys!
 
 




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