What Dyno Tested "NA" Mods actually increase HP Above 500wp on 93 pump?

[DougS550]

My 18 put down 516 / 454 in April heat in AZ a while back. LTH, Flex tune but tested at e90, oem intake with drop in. But I also reduced rotational weight where I could to mitigate parasitic loss thus more to the wheels. CF DS, light weight wheels etc.

Nice set up. Thanks for the advice.

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[Jackson1320]

Nice set up. Thanks for the advice.

on a 18+ 500 is possible with minimal mods. on a 15-17 more mods are needed

 

[Paul's Pony]

What about axles? If you add FI and get up to 600+HP at the wheels, aren't you asking for a broken axle particularly with the standard 3.15 rear end? Anybody have any experience with FI and the 3.15?

 

[shogun32]

Anybody have any experience with FI and the 3.15

I think many (most?) FI guys end up with 3.15 or 3.31 eventually. And avoid the aluminum pumpkins (A10 w/ 3.31) at all costs.

 

[Jackson1320]

What about axles? If you add FI and get up to 600+HP at the wheels, aren't you asking for a broken axle particularly with the standard 3.15 rear end? Anybody have any experience with FI and the 3.15?

you shouldn't have any problems tell closer to 750-800

 

[paulm1]

I'd be happy with 500 crank HP and a factory warranty still in tact.

 

[RoadCone]

Here is my 525 NA build.. on E85 though...

514 on 93 pump. Page 8 is where it starts getting interesting....

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/going-for-500whp-n-a.81848/

 

[LSchicago]

What about axles? If you add FI and get up to 600+HP at the wheels, aren't you asking for a broken axle particularly with the standard 3.15 rear end? Anybody have any experience with FI and the 3.15?

Add GT350 axles for cheap insurance.

 

[Andy13186]

For 500 wheel I think you will need a very aggressive tune and octane booster if you arent using e85. Youll also need lightweight wheels, tires, driveshaft, brakes, full 3" exhaust, catless longtubes and cold weather.

 

[BAYoung]

My 18 put down 516 / 454 in April heat in AZ a while back. LTH, Flex tune but tested at e90, oem intake with drop in. But I also reduced rotational weight where I could to mitigate parasitic loss thus more to the wheels. CF DS, light weight wheels etc.

Lighter wheels and such show gains on dynos? Did not know that.

 

[Angrey]

Lighter wheels and such show gains on dynos? Did not know that.

Big time. Best way to neuter a dyno run is to use Donk 22"s. I think tire type has an effect too, but I think that's less pronounced.

I've seen vids on import testing where going with a tiny wheel resulted in nearly 10% gains over big flashy wheels.

 

[BAYoung]

Big time. Best way to neuter a dyno run is to use Donk 22"s. I think tire type has an effect too, but I think that's less pronounced.

I've seen vids on import testing where going with a tiny wheel resulted in nearly 10% gains over big flashy wheels.

Yeah. Im looking at apex wheels, titanium lugnuts and wheel studs, carbon brakes front and rear with e brake deletes, front wilwood calipers that are 6 pounds lighter than the Brembo ones, and a cf driveshaft. Iirc Gforce Axles are about 1.3 pounds lighter than oem. Wonder if they count, too.

 

[AZ18yote]

Weight reduction on rotational mass results in less parasitic loss,
meaning you are not making more power, but you are putting more of the power you do make down to the wheels, IE more usable power.

 

[Angrey]

Yeah. Im looking at apex wheels, titanium lugnuts and wheel studs, carbon brakes front and rear with e brake deletes, front wilwood calipers that are 6 pounds lighter than the Brembo ones, and a cf driveshaft. Iirc Gforce Axles are about 1.3 pounds lighter than oem. Wonder if they count, too.

They're great for real world performance, but the only thing that affects the dyno is anything that has to rotate (i.e. wheels, tires, driveshaft, clutch, flywheel, etc). The brakes will definitely help with unsprung weight (which is more beneficial than sprung weight).

Remember, the motor has to fight inertia to get all those things in the driveline rotating faster and faster and so anything that lessens that results in more effort going to spinning the dyno roller (or more power to accelerating the vehicle in the real world).

The lightened rotational components shows up in more drivetrain efficiency and less losses on the dyno.

Lighter brakes and anything that's not spinning is great, but won't help HP numbers, but is just as effective as more horsepower (takes more energy to accelerate a heavy vehicle).

 

[BAYoung]

They're great for real world performance, but the only thing that affects the dyno is anything that has to rotate (i.e. wheels, tires, driveshaft, clutch, flywheel, etc). The brakes will definitely help with unsprung weight (which is more beneficial than sprung weight).

Remember, the motor has to fight inertia to get all those things in the driveline rotating faster and faster and so anything that lessens that results in more effort going to spinning the dyno roller (or more power to accelerating the vehicle in the real world).

The lightened rotational components shows up in more drivetrain efficiency and less losses on the dyno.

Lighter brakes and anything that's not spinning is great, but won't help HP numbers, but is just as effective as more horsepower (takes more energy to accelerate a heavy vehicle).

Ah. Okay. 515whp with a stock im/ intake setup is crazy. Im thinking i will be about the same with an ported IM, ported TB, and a steeda 121 intake. My biggest thing after that is cooling/ airflow. Mountain driving with up to 20k DA will be insane.

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