What Dyno Tested "NA" Mods actually increase HP Above 500wp on 93 pump?

[deanm11]

That must have sucked. I appreciate everyone's opinions and experience concerning NA car mids. Thanks

My 2020 FBO E85 (Kooks/cats/Borla S-type/Steeda close box AC/Ported Intake/TB) through an A10 was 471rwhp/425rwtq. Nice mid-range pickup with E85 and all the timing. With a light car (took 150lbs out of a base car) it feels quite quick. But after I redo the NA build on my '22, I've got a Procharger Stage 2 tuner kit ready.

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[shogun32]

The 1000cc bikes are making 200 HP per liter so I see no reason why we cannot get 100 or 125 per out of a coyote.

sure, at 12,000-14500+ RPM.
destroke the coyote to 4000cc with 75mm stroke and spin it to 10,000. Or 80mm at 9500.

 

[K4fxd]

sure, at 12,000-14500+ RPM

If only Ford had increased the bore centers....

Still factory is spinning 8500, should be able to get 10,000 with some better internals.

 

[Angrey]

The 1000cc bikes are making 200 HP per liter so I see no reason why we cannot get 100 or 125 per out of a coyote.

Like F1 cars, they're reving much higher. We don't have the piston height to width ratio or the valvetrain to rev high enough to get into those P/V realms.

 

[DougS550]

My 2020 FBO E85 (Kooks/cats/Borla S-type/Steeda close box AC/Ported Intake/TB) through an A10 was 471rwhp/425rwtq. Nice mid-range pickup with E85 and all the timing. With a light car (took 150lbs out of a base car) it feels quite quick. But after I redo the NA build on my '22, I've got a Procharger Stage 2 tuner kit ready.

Thank you for your help. I agree, FI is a much cheaper and a much better performance route to go. Good Luck with the PC.

 

[tdstuart]

Haven’t read this thread completely but here is my thoughts.

If you are gen3 going N/A is an alright move. You make a lot more power with gen3 then gen2 and 1 mod for mod N/A due to higher compression.

E85 is a good 20-25hp bonus. It also makes it so you can make some additional power safer, as long as you get quality and reliable e85.

You can make 500whp with a gen3 motor on e85 with a ported manifold and catless lth. To make 500rwhp on a gen1 and 2 you probably need cams and cobra jet.

At the end of the day though, it is way easier to save for the base ESS supercharger kit and make more power than a fbo cammed N/A car, and probably safer.

My car is fbo N/A (not cammed). I did all the labor myself and bought the cheapest parts I could. But if I bought cams and a cobrajet it would cost as much as an ESS supercharger.

If you want to make reliable safe power, get the base ESS blowe. Make 600whp+ and beat hellcats.

N/A cars are cool. I love the idea of a stroked and bored 5.5L coyote revving to 9,000rpm with a big ass cam making 600+whp. But it costs 2x as much as boosting your car.

If you aren’t doing the labor yourself going boost probably makes even more sense. Even if you do the labor yourself LTH are a big pain to put in.

I vote for you to save the 4,600 for a base ESS kit. Buy a good reputable tune from a tuner like Lund for about $1000. Even if you are a novice mechanic you should be able to do the install. Buy some injectors for $300-$600 install those (super easy), and bam 600+whp. You can always upgrade the kit too.

 

[drive_55_not]

My 2020 FBO E85 (Kooks/cats/Borla S-type/Steeda close box AC/Ported Intake/TB) through an A10 was 471rwhp/425rwtq. Nice mid-range pickup with E85 and all the timing. With a light car (took 150lbs out of a base car) it feels quite quick. But after I redo the NA build on my '22, I've got a Procharger Stage 2 tuner kit ready.

I had LT's, 3" O/R Outlaw exhaust and E85 on my 2018 300A PP1 , It dyno'd 465rwhp/430rwtq. Best 1/4 was 11.7x @122.x .

I was using the SCT tuner and it did not allow tranny tuning so that's why my ET sux'd.

Is the OP a M6 or A10? 'cause what would really suck is to have 500rwhp with a 3-pedal car and not break into the 11's.

./

 

[NGOT8R]

I had LT's, 3" O/R Outlaw exhaust and E85 on my 2018 300A PP1 , It dyno'd 465rwhp/430rwtq. Best 1/4 was 11.7x @122.x .

I was using the SCT tuner and it did not allow tranny tuning so that's why my ET sux'd.

Is the OP a M6 or A10? 'cause what would really suck is to have 500rwhp with a 3-pedal car and not break into the 11's.

./

Is your car an auto or manual? There’s only a difference of 4 hp/4 tq between our cars. We’re you on tires?

 

[WoodburnGT]

My 22’ GT base A10 recently dyno’d at 451/394 on Forged Fuel E85, Kooks LTH, No cats and JLT intake. It’s ran a best of 11.37 at 123mph.

 

[DougS550]

Haven’t read this thread completely but here is my thoughts.

If you are gen3 going N/A is an alright move. You make a lot more power with gen3 then gen2 and 1 mod for mod N/A due to higher compression.

E85 is a good 20-25hp bonus. It also makes it so you can make some additional power safer, as long as you get quality and reliable e85.

You can make 500whp with a gen3 motor on e85 with a ported manifold and catless lth. To make 500rwhp on a gen1 and 2 you probably need cams and cobra jet.

At the end of the day though, it is way easier to save for the base ESS supercharger kit and make more power than a fbo cammed N/A car, and probably safer.

My car is fbo N/A (not cammed). I did all the labor myself and bought the cheapest parts I could. But if I bought cams and a cobrajet it would cost as much as an ESS supercharger.

If you want to make reliable safe power, get the base ESS blowe. Make 600whp+ and beat hellcats.

N/A cars are cool. I love the idea of a stroked and bored 5.5L coyote revving to 9,000rpm with a big ass cam making 600+whp. But it costs 2x as much as boosting your car.

If you aren’t doing the labor yourself going boost probably makes even more sense. Even if you do the labor yourself LTH are a big pain to put in.

I vote for you to save the 4,600 for a base ESS kit. Buy a good reputable tune from a tuner like Lund for about $1000. Even if you are a novice mechanic you should be able to do the install. Buy some injectors for $300-$600 install those (super easy), and bam 600+whp. You can always upgrade the kit too.

Thank you. I have been working, rebuilding, racing cars and motor cycles since I was 14. But, it does make since to have more reliable HP/TQ by going a Centric route. PD for me are the best fun but also have to chase more parts then a Centi. Concidering I have totally modded my suspension with everything from AAD Performance, BMR to include CF Super Snake CF Hood, GT350R OE spoiler, CF side rockers, Trufiber CF interior ETC, it would thrive on one of those.
Thank you
2019 Mustang GT A10, PP1 Premium, 401a, Magneride.

 

[shogun32]

suspension with everything from AAD Performance, BMR to include CF Super Snake CF Hood, GT350R OE spoiler, CF side rockers, Trufiber CF interior ETC, it would thrive on one of those.

you're lacking important things like heat management.

 

[tdstuart]

Thank you. I have been working, rebuilding, racing cars and motor cycles since I was 14. But, it does make since to have more reliable HP/TQ by going a Centric route. PD for me are the best fun but also have to chase more parts then a Centi. Concidering I have totally modded my suspension with everything from AAD Performance, BMR to include CF Super Snake CF Hood, GT350R OE spoiler, CF side rockers, Trufiber CF interior ETC, it would thrive on one of those.
Thank you
2019 Mustang GT A10, PP1 Premium, 401a, Magneride.

I hated doing headers, hardest thing I’ve done on the car. I would rather do opg again. That’s the only reason I mention avoiding them and going with a supercharger so you don’t have to touch them.

I like PD for how they sound, but they have heat issues and are really expensive unless you go for some really low level roushe. I don’t know if any kits are available for an AC chilled PD blower for the mustang but that would help with heat a lot. Saw an itsjusta6 vid where he got a AC cooled unit on his Camaro and it basically eliminated heating issues with back to back pulls.

Cheapest route is an ESS supercharger. Heard really good things from them. Only thing that would be cheaper is building a custom turbo kit. Looking at some eBay kits going for 2.5k. No idea if they fit or if you need to delete A/C but the option is there.

 

[NGOT8R]

My 22’ GT base A10 recently dyno’d at 451/394 on Forged Fuel E85, Kooks LTH, No cats and JLT intake. It’s ran a best of 11.37 at 123mph.

Man! That’s the kinda ET and mph I’m looking for, but I’m a manual car, so that may be out of reach.

 

[AZ18yote]

My 18 put down 516 / 454 in April heat in AZ a while back. LTH, Flex tune but tested at e90, oem intake with drop in. But I also reduced rotational weight where I could to mitigate parasitic loss thus more to the wheels. CF DS, light weight wheels etc.

 

[DougS550]

you're lacking important things like heat management.

Heat management will be done at the same time I start my my performance mods. Heat is a definate limiting factor with any performance mods on our high compression engines. Thanks

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