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What do I need to determine if/what is my boost leak?

stannypack

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Was pushing it a bit and noticed my boost never seemed to go past 15 even in 40 deg cold weather. Do I have to hit pretty much redline to see max boost of ~20?

Is there a kit to determine where my boost leak is? I found this but am unsure what else I'd need https://turboboostleaktesters.com/mustang-2-3l-ecoboost-i-4/

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sirben711

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How long has this been going on? My bet would be a problem with the BOV
 
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stannypack

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How long has this been going on? My bet would be a problem with the BOV
Honestly not that sure, I recently installed a new intercooler but we snugged the charge pipes down as far as we could and tightened the clamps down pretty tight. The turbosmart bov was installed a couple months ago, but I've also only recently being driving the car harder and paying attention to the boost 🥲
 

Oakley

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i have 2 questions:

is the car making less power or running worse?
do you fully understand turbocharged engines front to back and top to bottom?
 
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stannypack

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i have 2 questions:

is the car making less power or running worse?
do you fully understand turbocharged engines front to back and top to bottom?
not sure to both, it runs fine but I've been reading on the forums/fb groups that most people make 20lbs of boost even stock, and I have the ford performance tune.

I don't fully understand turbocharged cars, just the basics. I'm suspecting a leak since I was flooring it in both 2nd/3rd gear (wasn't at redline but pretty sure close to it), on flat ground in pretty cold weather, and the boost gauge was "stuck" at 15.
 
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Oakley

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if the only reason why you think something might be wrong is the boost gauges isn't hitting a particular number you heard it should hit... i'd ignore it and move on.

you could do a boost leak test which is pretty simple. you basically just pressurize the system with compressed air while the car is off and listen for air weezing out of the system. soapy water helps, too. it won't hold air forever but it should give you some idea.

https://turboboostleaktesters.com/how-to-boost-leak-test/
 
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stannypack

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if the only reason why you think something might be wrong is the boost gauges isn't hitting a particular number you heard it should hit... i'd ignore it and move on.

you could do a boost leak test which is pretty simple. you basically just pressurize the system with compressed air while the car is off and listen for air weezing out of the system. soapy water helps, too. it won't hold air forever but it should give you some idea.

https://turboboostleaktesters.com/how-to-boost-leak-test/
gotcha, I'll prob get that kit. but are the stock turbos not supposed to be making close to 20 lbs?
 

Oakley

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gotcha, I'll prob get that kit. but are the stock turbos not supposed to be making close to 20 lbs?
Its just a pvc cap with a hole dripped in it and a tire valve on it with a little pressure gauge. If your gauge works without the engine on i would use that to get a comparison between the two gauges.

Its a mechanical gauge powered digitally so it could just be off.
 
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stannypack

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Its just a pvc cap with a hole dripped in it and a tire valve on it with a little pressure gauge. If your gauge works without the engine on i would use that to get a comparison between the two gauges.

Its a mechanical gauge powered digitally so it could just be off.
oh the gauge I was referring to is the digital boost gauge in the digital cluster
 

Oakley

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oh the gauge I was referring to is the digital boost gauge in the digital cluster
okay, since you're there watch the AFR. if you have a boost leak your car will run rich.

also, since you added an intercooler that flows better than stock you've eliminated restriction and that restriction is what the original tune is calibrated with.

you should really bone up on your turbo system knowledge to understand how everything works before modding it further. if its making good power and driving well you're fine.

a custom tune will be necessary to recalibrate the systew as a whole since you changed stuff.
 

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not sure to both, it runs fine but I've been reading on the forums/fb groups that most people make 20lbs of boost even stock, and I have the ford performance tune.

I don't fully understand turbocharged cars, just the basics. I'm suspecting a leak since I was flooring it in both 2nd/3rd gear (wasn't at redline but pretty sure close to it), on flat ground in pretty cold weather, and the boost gauge was "stuck" at 15.
I have a 2020 eco and when it was on stock tune it would max out at 20 psi boost at some point in the RPM curve when at WOT, now with the FP tune it hits 24 psi boost max between 3 to 6k RPM depending on many variables in the PCM strategy.

Just my experience with my own car with all the mods in signature.

BD
 
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I have a 2020 eco and when it was on stock tune it would max out at 20 psi boost at some point in the RPM curve when at WOT, now with the FP tune it hits 24 psi boost max between 3 to 6k RPM depending on many variables in the PCM strategy.

Just my experience with my own car with all the mods in signature.

BD
well fuck me
 
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okay, since you're there watch the AFR. if you have a boost leak your car will run rich.

also, since you added an intercooler that flows better than stock you've eliminated restriction and that restriction is what the original tune is calibrated with.

you should really bone up on your turbo system knowledge to understand how everything works before modding it further. if its making good power and driving well you're fine.

a custom tune will be necessary to recalibrate the systew as a whole since you changed stuff.
gotcha, but also isn't afr supposed to go lower to the 12's when under WOT (from what I've read)? so if there's a boost leak it would be even lower than that?
 

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you started tinkering with a very complex system.
you need understand how it works. I gave you a great resource to get you started.

take your car to someone who knows how to work or start learning how to do it yourself.

The thinkgis if you wanna mod the car you gotta learn how to do stuff like boost leak tests etc.
 
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Buldawg76

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Check all clamps on charge hoses and also the o ring for the MAP sensor you swapped from the old IC to the new IC, the o ring could be cut or torn causing low boost or leaking hose.

BD
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