What did you do to your UK S550 Mustang Today

[hinch]

i swear i didn't buy a 2nd mustang just to strip for parts but if anyone needs them i have

1 full set of factory springs,
1 rear factory ARB inc bushes
2 factory steering wheels
2 factory airboxes
15-17 inlet manifold

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[Kristian87]

Well i’m back from Ford.

First thing I did after getting the keys was bounce the rear end from the boot. Definitely not creaking like it did before.

The 8 mile, 15 min drive home proved good too. I listened carefully when pulling away and didn’t hear the same creak/knock i did before. Happy days.

However, the low speed manoeuvres, especially from a dead stop - moving forward or back, there’s a distinctive “ping” or metallic “clink” now, seems to be the same sort of area.

Getting tired of stressing over this and just want it sorted. Especially before my trip to Scotland at the end of May.

Part of me wants to ignore it, part of me wants to give some thought to what life will be like in a year, two, five from now and whether i can live with more stressing than enjoyment. I dunno. Been a long day and i’m shattered.

I’ll pester the dealership some more and get them to give it another look.

 

[snake bite]

Well i’m back from Ford.

First thing I did after getting the keys was bounce the rear end from the boot. Definitely not creaking like it did before.

The 8 mile, 15 min drive home proved good too. I listened carefully when pulling away and didn’t hear the same creak/knock i did before. Happy days.

However, the low speed manoeuvres, especially from a dead stop - moving forward or back, there’s a distinctive “ping” or metallic “clink” now, seems to be the same sort of area.

Getting tired of stressing over this and just want it sorted. Especially before my trip to Scotland at the end of May.

Part of me wants to ignore it, part of me wants to give some thought to what life will be like in a year, two, five from now and whether i can live with more stressing than enjoyment. I dunno. Been a long day and i’m shattered.

I’ll pester the dealership some more and get them to give it another look.

I'd check the rear wheel bearings just to be safe. Jack the car up at the rear, hand brake off and try and wobble the wheel. If there's movement then its knackered. Only a suggestion as I have had my rear LHS replaced twice and the sound you described is what happened after ford tried to fix it and didn't do it properly.......that's another story.

 

[Supersolo]

Getting tired of stressing over this and just want it sorted.

I understand that, it can still happen to me. However, I remind myself, no car is perfect. They all have issues/faults, only some of which we may be aware of.

Changed the spark plugs yesterday.
4 hours, for me.
Things I saw during that job made me realise, I've just got to drive the thing, warts and all.
If something pops or the car grinds to a halt. I'll fix it. Until then, I'll fill it up & listen to the engine & ignore my clonking ARB.

 

[Bullitt66]

Changed the spark plugs yesterday.

Arent the OE plugs iridium ‘lifetime‘ type things?

Service schedules for them seem inconsistent depending where you look

Any thoughts?

 

[Supersolo]

Arent the OE plugs iridium ‘lifetime‘ type things?

Service schedules for them seem inconsistent depending where you look

Any thoughts?

No idea about the factory fit spark plugs, other than I was advised to use cooler spark plugs with the mods.

These are the 3rd set, including the factory set.
Edit: Oops! Actually these are the 4th set!

Got a bit of OCD on, during reassembly (so obviously, I'm still WiP, as far as being concerned over what I can't control about the car).
Heat shrink on the K-Brace lower, support tab at the base of the windshield.

Touched-up the paint scratches on the cowl-inner, where the battery box & removable panel, are situated.
Re-routed the N/S coil harness, properly, unlike the fool I paid to do it.

Made 2 gimps to go under the battery box, to protect the paint.

Strategic deployment of 2 cable ties to hold the coolant pipes away from the electrical harness at the front end of the N/S bank.

Cleaned / wiped down most stuff I touched, along the way.
As before, the stuff you find, you just got to drive these things.

 

[raptor17GT]

drove it, tested if you can turn off the engine while still moving (emergency situation ie throttle stuck wide open or horrible metal destroying noises from engine etc) and yes you can turn it off while moving which is nice to know. I had a mk1 mr2 stuck at WOT on a motorway slip road but ignition turned off with key so yeah how do you replicate that on the Keyless start technology. Read below

ok so had a chance to test this.
UK RHD MY17 manual @40mph
Test 1:
straight road driving clutch in and reach for the Start/Stop button and press and hold for 2 maybe 3 seconds (didn't seem long at all) - engine shuts down, gauges go out and alarm full / internal selection showing on the screen. Clutch still down so hit the Start/Stop button and engine fired up no issue and popped into 5th gear and carried on

Test 2:
straight road driving clutch in and reach for the Start/Stop button and press it rapidly 3 times (sure it was 3 not 2) - engine shuts down, gauges go out and alarm full / internal selection showing on the screen. Clutch still down so hit the Start/Stop button and engine fired up no issue and popped into 5th gear and carried on

So yeah you can shut the engine off while still moving and no warning symbol on dash after either test. I will have to plug in the OBDC dongle and see if there's any info / warning stored for it but certainly nothing showing on the dash to indicate a problem of any kind

 

[Silver Dragon]

drove it, tested if you can turn off the engine while still moving (emergency situation ie throttle stuck wide open or horrible metal destroying noises from engine etc) and yes you can turn it off while moving which is nice to know. I had a mk1 mr2 stuck at WOT on a motorway slip road but ignition turned off with key so yeah how do you replicate that on the Keyless start technology. Read below

ok so had a chance to test this.
UK RHD MY17 manual @40mph
Test 1:
straight road driving clutch in and reach for the Start/Stop button and press and hold for 2 maybe 3 seconds (didn't seem long at all) - engine shuts down, gauges go out and alarm full / internal selection showing on the screen. Clutch still down so hit the Start/Stop button and engine fired up no issue and popped into 5th gear and carried on

Test 2:
straight road driving clutch in and reach for the Start/Stop button and press it rapidly 3 times (sure it was 3 not 2) - engine shuts down, gauges go out and alarm full / internal selection showing on the screen. Clutch still down so hit the Start/Stop button and engine fired up no issue and popped into 5th gear and carried on

So yeah you can shut the engine off while still moving and no warning symbol on dash after either test. I will have to plug in the OBDC dongle and see if there's any info / warning stored for it but certainly nothing showing on the dash to indicate a problem of any kind

Yes I too can vouch for the the fact that touching the starter button when driving will cut the engine.....

Picture the scene just bought my Mustang GT driving it home for the first time on a dual carriageway at 70 mph when the engine cuts out and I just make it over to a set of hatchlings by the side of the road.My first reaction what have I just bought?? Why did I trade in my perfectly reliable Fiesta ST for this?? Pushed the starter and car started and drove the rest of the way home without incident.

After a lot of thoughtful reflection remembered that I had been adjusting the drivers side heater control just before the cut out?

Yes indeed without realising it I must have accidentally touched the starter button,I certainly didn’t push it.

Moral of the story be careful when adjusting heater that you don’t brush the starter button!!!

 

[Kristian87]

I’ll pester the dealership some more and get them to give it another look.

Well I did end up shooting back over to Ford in Hungerford yesterday. My favorite tech (Paul) was in and they had a no show, so had some time to chat/troubleshoot my new noise.

We were in agreement that the new shock had removed the creaking noise, and he further explained that they sprayed in some lube to see if that stopped the noise, which it did. But ultimately the rubber seal inside the shock was failing, so a new shock was the solution.

Back to the new noise. That had them stumped for a good while, spline nut was checked, bolts re torqued under load, springs inspected - all good. Driveshaft slack was suspected, which would make sense but the noise was clearing coming from my problem wheel (pass rear).

Then they were on to something...brake pads moving inside the carrier. My method for reproducing was to move forward, hit the brakes, move backwards, stop and so on. Each time I moved, a distinctive metallic "ping" could be heard - from inside and outside the car, apparently there was enough play where the pad sits in the carrier, that it moved each time. He even showed me some wear on the tabs(?). We ran out of time at that point.

With that new knowledge I've been testing the theory.

Forward > stop > forward > stop > forward = no noise.

Forward > stop > reverse > stop > forward = "ping".

They suggested taking it back in for them to further confirm, and I believe they plan to swap the pads over and see if the noise travels to the other side. That being the case I can have some comfort in knowing where that noise is coming from! Pads are approx half worn @ 30k miles so I think I'll stick it out a bit longer before I rush and change them out.

Must admit, it has inspired me to revisit my plan to get the calipers painted. I would think a thorough cleaning will do the brakes some good too.

 

[Kristian87]

Been busy this weekend. I've moved my whole detailing operation over to my girlfriends dads house (we live in a flat), which is much closer than my parents place - 5 min drive rather than an hour!

Anyway, treated myself to a few new goodies.

Went with a Karcher K5 compact. It's so tiny! It has all the same internals as the big K5 but without the extra features which are really more geared towards patio cleaning.

That's paired with the "MTM magnum kit" which I picked up from Yumcars last weekend. Supposedly the best PW trigger and foam cannon on the planet.

Definitely an improvement over my last set up, the flow rate is much higher, and I chose the orifice options to optimist that aspect. Pressure wise it feels similar to the Karcher K4 and a cheaper short trigger/nozzle set up I was using before. The foam cannon was excellent, really well made piece of kit and foaming was just a bit more precise/less messy than what I was used to. Foam a lot thicker too (although I was using Adams "mega foam" rather than a different foam used in my last set up).

Few more goodies from Yumcars too such as their new wash pad, and tire brush which I can recommend highly.

That's a really long way of saying I washed it today, here it is!

 

[Wizzer]

Been busy this weekend. I've moved my whole detailing operation over to my girlfriends dads house (we live in a flat), which is much closer than my parents place - 5 min drive rather than an hour!

Anyway, treated myself to a few new goodies.

Went with a Karcher K5 compact. It's so tiny! It has all the same internals as the big K5 but without the extra features which are really more geared towards patio cleaning.

That's paired with the "MTM magnum kit" which I picked up from Yumcars last weekend. Supposedly the best PW trigger and foam cannon on the planet.

Definitely an improvement over my last set up, the flow rate is much higher, and I chose the orifice options to optimist that aspect. Pressure wise it feels similar to the Karcher K4 and a cheaper short trigger/nozzle set up I was using before. The foam cannon was excellent, really well made piece of kit and foaming was just a bit more precise/less messy than what I was used to. Foam a lot thicker too (although I was using Adams "mega foam" rather than a different foam used in my last set up).

Few more goodies from Yumcars too such as their new wash pad, and tire brush which I can recommend highly.

That's a really long way of saying I washed it today, here it is!

Looking good
I got the new wash pad and new bag last week but haven’t used it yet
Have the whole Yum range now and well impressed with all the products
Used the ceramic twice already and I think 4 coats of Yum wax and rapid detailer!Got to get that Magnetic popping in the sun

 

[Kristian87]

Looking good
I got the new wash pad and new bag last week but haven’t used it yet
Have the whole Yum range now and well impressed with all the products
Used the ceramic twice already and I think 4 coats of Yum wax and rapid detailer!Got to get that Magnetic popping in the sun

Oh yes, a fan of the wax here too!

I like his 3 wheel products the best. The wheel cleaner is just phenomenal, and the undress is very effective. The dress is a bit heavy being a gel, but again looks awesome

 

[Kristian87]

Back in to Ford today. They ruled out the brake pads as the source of the noise and are now pointing at the drivshaft.

i’ll pursue this issue in a different section now, but for anyone interested i did take a video which highlights the noise really well.



And the new thread;

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/new-drivetrain-noise-creaking-on-takeoff.158924/

 

[Gregs24]

Well I did end up shooting back over to Ford in Hungerford yesterday. My favorite tech (Paul) was in and they had a no show, so had some time to chat/troubleshoot my new noise.

We were in agreement that the new shock had removed the creaking noise, and he further explained that they sprayed in some lube to see if that stopped the noise, which it did. But ultimately the rubber seal inside the shock was failing, so a new shock was the solution.

Back to the new noise. That had them stumped for a good while, spline nut was checked, bolts re torqued under load, springs inspected - all good. Driveshaft slack was suspected, which would make sense but the noise was clearing coming from my problem wheel (pass rear).

Then they were on to something...brake pads moving inside the carrier. My method for reproducing was to move forward, hit the brakes, move backwards, stop and so on. Each time I moved, a distinctive metallic "ping" could be heard - from inside and outside the car, apparently there was enough play where the pad sits in the carrier, that it moved each time. He even showed me some wear on the tabs(?). We ran out of time at that point.

With that new knowledge I've been testing the theory.

Forward > stop > forward > stop > forward = no noise.

Forward > stop > reverse > stop > forward = "ping".

They suggested taking it back in for them to further confirm, and I believe they plan to swap the pads over and see if the noise travels to the other side. That being the case I can have some comfort in knowing where that noise is coming from! Pads are approx half worn @ 30k miles so I think I'll stick it out a bit longer before I rush and change them out.

Must admit, it has inspired me to revisit my plan to get the calipers painted. I would think a thorough cleaning will do the brakes some good too.

A lot of people with S1 Lotus Elise's had exactly this problem with brake pads, they would chatter as you drove along as well. Replacing the brake pad springs was the fix.

 

[raptor17GT]

what happens if you leave the handbrake on slightly just to take up the tension on the pads but still overcome it easily with some clutch. Does it still clunk?

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