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What did you do to your S550 Mustang today?!

slowdown

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I’m about to do seats, rear seat delete and cage. Why did you go with the seat and cage you chose?
I bought the car with the rear seat deleted and a harness bar so I wish I could tell you what delete kit I used but I cannot. Never used the harness bar and removed that.

As far as the 6pt bar goes that is an ABF Fabrication 6 point bar with swingouts. This bar can be installed with the rear seats still in the car if you want. The main reason I chose this bar is the way the 4 point bar mounts - no drilling required - specifically none through the hardened steel that runs across the floor pan between the B Pilliars. This thing uses the three 15mm bolts that fasten that bar on the floor pan to the B Pillar and then uses the rear seatbelt shoulder retention assembly holes to mount the rear legs. With the Watson Bar you're drilling for the rear legs and with the CMS Bar you're drilling hardened steel for the front legs. The fabrication on the ABF Bar is top notch. It also has welded on brackets that accept the eyes for the shoulder harnesses instead of wrapping around bar which I like. Fwiw with my rear seats already deleted we pulled the front seats, panels and rug back and had the 4 point bar installed in 2 hours - not sure any other bar on the market comes close and it is solid as a rock and mounted to very strong points - that IMO stiffen the car better that the other options out there as well.

As far as the forward legs and swingouts. That system has a bit to be desired. Once you mock everything up - no matter how good you do it - even with the backing plates the floor pan flexes a bit so fitment is a bit sloppy. Also - if you go with this bar expect it to come so the swing arm fitment is too tight and will require some filing down to get dialed in. Honestly, if I did it again I wouldn't add the swingouts as I've never used them once to get in and out of the car but I'm also 6' and 165lbs so pretty thin. It's tight on the drivers side. Also - do not order an OMP WRC or similar seat with wide shoulder wings for any 6 pt bar system as they hit the side (or use my photo as a guideline and see if the forward legs are lower). The HRE halo seat fits without any rub. We had to cut and grind away (took 7 tries as we did just a little at a time) some of the fiberglass on the passenger seat to get the fitment to work - but once done it's bad ass. And as far as comfort goes if you're still daily driving it's way more comfortable than the Halo for that.

Anyway - if I was only tracking I'd have gotten the ABF 4pt bar but since I'm doing some Hillclimbs I added the extra protection in case of an off.
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slowdown

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I’m about to do seats, rear seat delete and cage. Why did you go with the seat and cage you chose?
Also - btw I'm only a phone call away if you decide to go with ABF. Can walk you through the entire process and if you go 4pt I wouldn't go with any other bar. The tricky part is the cutout of the B and C pillar panels to fit around the legs b/c the templates they sent were a bit confusion on how to line up but if knuckleheads like us figured it out so can you. Either way, if you needed any help we could talk you through it.

An ABF 4 point with OMP WRC-R seats would be an ideal track car setup that still retains decent road driving comfort.

https://abffabrication.com/shop/ford-mustang-s550-rollbar-2015/

Remember - if you want to be able to return to OEM one day the ABF can be fully installed without a rear seat delete and still use the 3 point system.
 

TrackMustang

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Also - btw I'm only a phone call away if you decide to go with ABF. Can walk you through the entire process and if you go 4pt I wouldn't go with any other bar. The tricky part is the cutout of the B and C pillar panels to fit around the legs b/c the templates they sent were a bit confusion on how to line up but if knuckleheads like us figured it out so can you. Either way, if you needed any help we could talk you through it.

An ABF 4 point with OMP WRC-R seats would be an ideal track car setup that still retains decent road driving comfort.

https://abffabrication.com/shop/ford-mustang-s550-rollbar-2015/

Remember - if you want to be able to return to OEM one day the ABF can be fully installed without a rear seat delete and still use the 3 point system.
Awesome info, thank you so much for taking the time. I’m not familiar with ABF at all, I’ll definitely check them out now. I was looking at the Watson but it looks like I have more research to do…

I’m getting the Sparco R333’s, hopefully the shoulder isn’t an issue but I have a great price on them and love Sparco stuff.
 

Cobra Jet

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It drives fine and pulls hard. It's only at stop lights at idle. Doesn't matter what mode I'm in (normal, track, sport, etc.). It also doesn't do it when I first fire up the car it's after driving it. I got half a km down the road yesterday from the dealership and it stalled at the lights.

Here is an example of what it does except without the actual stall part but if I had kept recording it may have.




Also, if I give it a little gas when it starts doing this it doesn't stall. It's like I have to feather the accelerator.
@MCS

2 checks:
- Has anyone pulled plugs to read and see condition of each?
- Has anyone done a wiggle test to make sure there aren't any loose connectors, loose grounds or even checked harnesses to make sure there isn't any chafing or damages?

Aside from the obvious above. . .

- Did the shop bother to check the CHT or MAF values to make absolutely sure they are within spec? The problem with some sensors is that even if they are sporadically faulty, they do not always throw a code and sure they "look good" but doesn't always mean they are "good".

- Also have them check the crank position sensor. There's been many threads on here where folks are having drivability issues and it's been found that the crank position sensor is faulty. Either the body is found to be cracked, the plug/connector pins found to be loose or debris is stuck to the magnetic end that reads the tone ring.

2 other things to check:
- O2 sensors. Again even if they are sporadically faulty, they don't always throw a code. There's been plenty of threads on here with M6Gers finding faulty O2's and once replaced, the issues clear up.

- Coil packs. A general misfire code is a P0300, which is sometimes "normal" according to Ford's misfire strategy or it could relate to other sensors if having to do a pin out trace. A misfire code of a P0301-P0308 is a specific cylinder misfire. Now I'm just throwing that out there in the event you do a scan yourself and see any such codes. But what I want you to check is the physical condition of each coil pack. There were threads on here where M6Gers had found melted coil packs. Once pulled from the head check them thoroughly, not only check for a visible and obvious "melt" of the exterior casing - BUT use a high powered LED light and go over the entire casing to make sure there aren't any fine hairline cracks. Any breach of the coil pack will cause drivability issues. If a coil pack has a crack, once it gets hot the crack is going to expand allowing an arcing condition.

Ok, yea the above is a lot to absorb, BUT those are going to be the most common Coyote issues.

Since your only experiencing the problem AFTER the car is getting to optimum operating temps, the issue could be sensor related.
 

MCS

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@MCS

2 checks:
- Has anyone pulled plugs to read and see condition of each?
- Has anyone done a wiggle test to make sure there aren't any loose connectors, loose grounds or even checked harnesses to make sure there isn't any chafing or damages?

Aside from the obvious above. . .

- Did the shop bother to check the CHT or MAF values to make absolutely sure they are within spec? The problem with some sensors is that even if they are sporadically faulty, they do not always throw a code and sure they "look good" but doesn't always mean they are "good".

- Also have them check the crank position sensor. There's been many threads on here where folks are having drivability issues and it's been found that the crank position sensor is faulty. Either the body is found to be cracked, the plug/connector pins found to be loose or debris is stuck to the magnetic end that reads the tone ring.

2 other things to check:
- O2 sensors. Again even if they are sporadically faulty, they don't always throw a code. There's been plenty of threads on here with M6Gers finding faulty O2's and once replaced, the issues clear up.

- Coil packs. A general misfire code is a P0300, which is sometimes "normal" according to Ford's misfire strategy or it could relate to other sensors if having to do a pin out trace. A misfire code of a P0301-P0308 is a specific cylinder misfire. Now I'm just throwing that out there in the event you do a scan yourself and see any such codes. But what I want you to check is the physical condition of each coil pack. There were threads on here where M6Gers had found melted coil packs. Once pulled from the head check them thoroughly, not only check for a visible and obvious "melt" of the exterior casing - BUT use a high powered LED light and go over the entire casing to make sure there aren't any fine hairline cracks. Any breach of the coil pack will cause drivability issues. If a coil pack has a crack, once it gets hot the crack is going to expand allowing an arcing condition.

Ok, yea the above is a lot to absorb, BUT those are going to be the most common Coyote issues.

Since your only experiencing the problem AFTER the car is getting to optimum operating temps, the issue could be sensor related.
Thanks, @Cobra Jet I'll pass this info along. I did write them on the weekend to point them in the direction of the cam phasers however I'll summarize your info here and pass that along to them as well!
 

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MCS

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2 checks:
- Has anyone pulled plugs to read and see condition of each?
- Has anyone done a wiggle test to make sure there aren't any loose connectors, loose grounds
Spoke with Ford today. Today's update; the dealership is having Roush send them some new plugs. They are going to swap that and see if that resolves the issue. If it doesn't then they are going to have a meeting with the higher-ups at the dealership to find out what is going to happen next as they have had my car since Sept 18th (except the 3 days I had it over a weekend when it was first installed).

So far no word on the Cam Phasers or all the other recommendations you guys have put forth but we'll see. I think they are looking to eliminate the easy stuff first (like swapping plugs) before it comes down to ripping the engine apart to replace those phasers; makes sense from a cost perspective. The dealership has probably blown its profits on the labour so now it's a matter of customer satisfaction and also figuring this out for future installs.
 
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MD18EcoStang

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You are correct....Like lots of members on here I have two sets of tires and run 285/35/19 square during the summer because I want a wider more aggressive look. And if it snows out I'll drive my 4x4 truck.
Did the same - PS AS4s for winter (in 275/35-19) and Nitto summer tires in 285. Very happy. Got the same questions, too, about why not buy actual winter/snow tires... Because my need is just for tires that are reliable in colder weather. No need to ever drive it in snow!
 

rxryanm

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Because my need is just for tires that are reliable in colder weather. No need to ever drive it in snow!
That's still winter tires lol. You don't have to drive in the snow to get the benefits of the tire that uses a compound that stays flexible in temps < 45*F.

If you only had 1 set of tires, sure. But I'll always advocate for winters for winter and summers for summers if you're going to have two sets. I did bought winters when I bought my Mustang and am now definitely a believer in them lol.
 

Ret_Sgt

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Looks good. Maybe change the "5.0" side badge to black.
I actually like the splash of chrome that matches the pony and the GT.
 
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MD18EcoStang

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That's still winter tires lol. You don't have to drive in the snow to get the benefits of the tire that uses a compound that stays flexible in temps < 45*F.

If you only had 1 set of tires, sure. But I'll always advocate for winters for winter and summers for summers if you're going to have two sets. I did bought winters when I bought my Mustang and am now definitely a believer in them lol.
I hear ya! But, I'm good! Felt very safe and reliable with the A/S tires last year. Excellent grip. Maybe if it was my DD, but it's mostly a "when I feel like it" car.
 

Stage_3

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Had the day off today. (Scheduled vacation day. I needed it.)
Couldn't have picked a better day as it is 74 degrees out here IN OCTOBER, with full sunshine,.......so I took the beast out for a quick little rip after lunch.
 

16Fastback

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20221012_125505.jpg

Car shows came to a end
So I took her to the winter home.
 
 




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