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What did you do to your S550 Mustang today?!

RookieDDZ

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I did the Z23's recently as well, so easy to change and a big difference in brake dust. I didn't really notice any difference in performance but I did break them in properly.

z23.png
Yeah, my PP wheels look so much better after a number of drives. I'm digging those P6GR 5 stars too. Waiting for a deal, doubt I'll get one these days :)
 

RookieDDZ

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RazorRS

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Just finished installing my ROUSH CAI - I must admit the “noise tube” was a pain to remove
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JnBama

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Friday the 13th got my S550 home safe and parked in the garage :clap:
 

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James1980

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Installed the Bomba vertical links. Pretty nice for $99. Install is super easy. No driving impressions just yet. Maybe tomorrow
IMG_0435.jpg
 
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m3incorp

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Can you feel a difference with just changing out the vertical links? What did you torque the bolts to?

Installed the Bomb vertical links. Pretty nice for $99. Install is super easy. No driving impressions just yet. Maybe tomorrow
IMG_0435.jpg
 

GT Pony

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Yeah....I already went through all of that.

There's absolutely 0 description of what "limited warranty" means. But I'll bet it means only factory defects are warrantied.
If you search for the word "limited" in the Michelin PDFs, it talks about some of the limitations of the warranty. Anything that doesn't meet the requirements per their defined valid warranty are outside those "limits", and that's essentially what a "limited warranty" means. That's basically true for anyone's "limited warranty" ... there have to be some limits set. For instance, all the things outlined in "What's Not Covered" are outside the limits of the warranty.
 
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James1980

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Can you feel a difference with just changing out the vertical links? What did you torque the bolts to?
I haven't driven it yet, so I can't say. Hopefully I'll get a chance to do that tomorrow.
Others have said they noticed a difference. So I figured it was worth a try

Top nut was torque to 76lb and the bottom to 129lb per the instructions on their website
 

Mach VII

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Just finished installing my ROUSH CAI - I must admit the “noise tube” was a pain to remove
03A3B84F-330A-4451-954E-8F638EFE16B2.jpeg
This explains why I was unable to pull off yanking the sound tube out, no commitment to bludgeoning my thumb like you did.
 

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Coyote 2121

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Had the Roush coil covers painted and installed them. Also put on the JLT master cylinder cover and Ford Performance engine cap set. I also had the JLT strut covers and a new fuse box cover painted; those will go on next.

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That engine looks GREAT!
I'm planning on doing SOMETHING to my stock engine bay.
It looks like ass as is ........
 

m3incorp

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Thanks,
I've got a pair from Steeda that has been in the garage for too long.

I haven't driven it yet, so I can't say. Hopefully I'll get a chance to do that tomorrow.
Others have said they noticed a difference. So I figured it was worth a try

Top nut was torque to 76lb and the bottom to 129lb per the instructions on their website
 

Mr. Met

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That engine looks GREAT!
I'm planning on doing SOMETHING to my stock engine bay.
It looks like ass as is ........
Thanks. Yeah, the 18+ engine looks like crap, especially with the cover off which itself is not so great looking. Second best thing about the the supercharge is it really improves the look of the engine, particularly (at least I think) with the the coil covers.

Finished it off yesterday with the strut covers and fuse box.
PXL_20220501_000031891.jpg
 

PUNISHER7772

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What’s the proper break in procedure?
Get em hot without stopping and drive around long enough to cool them off.

Break in your PowerStop Brakes as follows:

5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you’re forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.

Then do 5 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.

After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure.

After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
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