@MCSIt drives fine and pulls hard. It's only at stop lights at idle. Doesn't matter what mode I'm in (normal, track, sport, etc.). It also doesn't do it when I first fire up the car it's after driving it. I got half a km down the road yesterday from the dealership and it stalled at the lights.
Here is an example of what it does except without the actual stall part but if I had kept recording it may have.
Also, if I give it a little gas when it starts doing this it doesn't stall. It's like I have to feather the accelerator.
- Has anyone pulled plugs to read and see condition of each?
- Has anyone done a wiggle test to make sure there aren't any loose connectors, loose grounds or even checked harnesses to make sure there isn't any chafing or damages?
Aside from the obvious above. . .
- Did the shop bother to check the CHT or MAF values to make absolutely sure they are within spec? The problem with some sensors is that even if they are sporadically faulty, they do not always throw a code and sure they "look good" but doesn't always mean they are "good".
- Also have them check the crank position sensor. There's been many threads on here where folks are having drivability issues and it's been found that the crank position sensor is faulty. Either the body is found to be cracked, the plug/connector pins found to be loose or debris is stuck to the magnetic end that reads the tone ring.
2 other things to check:
- O2 sensors. Again even if they are sporadically faulty, they don't always throw a code. There's been plenty of threads on here with M6Gers finding faulty O2's and once replaced, the issues clear up.
- Coil packs. A general misfire code is a P0300, which is sometimes "normal" according to Ford's misfire strategy or it could relate to other sensors if having to do a pin out trace. A misfire code of a P0301-P0308 is a specific cylinder misfire. Now I'm just throwing that out there in the event you do a scan yourself and see any such codes. But what I want you to check is the physical condition of each coil pack. There were threads on here where M6Gers had found melted coil packs. Once pulled from the head check them thoroughly, not only check for a visible and obvious "melt" of the exterior casing - BUT use a high powered LED light and go over the entire casing to make sure there aren't any fine hairline cracks. Any breach of the coil pack will cause drivability issues. If a coil pack has a crack, once it gets hot the crack is going to expand allowing an arcing condition.
Ok, yea the above is a lot to absorb, BUT those are going to be the most common Coyote issues.
Since your only experiencing the problem AFTER the car is getting to optimum operating temps, the issue could be sensor related.