I had the Steeda STB on my last car and recall buying thicker and larger washers from the local hardware. I think I even doubled up the washers by putting the Steeda washers on top of the purchased ones....
ln the end I stopped tightening because the washers were starting to dig in to the strut brace. The instructions make no mention about what to do here. They can't be set to 35lbft as the torque wrench just keeps on going and going.
Here is what I mean about the inner most nuts / washers.
Thanks.
Thanks not a bad idea. I guess thinking about it I should look at putting a washer underneath to fill the void, that might allow the nut to troque down correctly. I dare not go any tighter as you say, it is thin. At least there is no chance of it working loose.I had the Steeda STB on my last car and recall buying thicker and larger washers from the local hardware. I think I even doubled up the washers by putting the Steeda washers on top of the purchased ones.
You don't want to over torque because the sheet metal is thin there.
When I put on camber plates, I doubled up the washers still.
If those inner bolts aren’t tight I would hazard a guess that you have lost rigidity, even though you have added the strut brace.
Thanks. Its coming off tomorrow, I'll pop a washer underneath to fill the small gap on the inner coloured ones, due to the extra brace.If those inner bolts aren’t tight I would hazard a guess that you have lost rigidity, even though you have added the strut brace.
The original cowl brace is rumoured to do more than the strut brace and if those nuts aren’t tight, you will be allowing for movement due to the slightly enlarged mounting holes (and possible paint damage around the edges of it arising from that movement).
I can’t advise how Steeda want you to assemble those items, but they defo need to clamp tight.
Defo don’t over tighten them - some guys on here did, then snapped the studs off …
Good luck !
WD
@Steeda UK @SteedaTech @tj@steeda
Looks good! what did you trim it with? I thonkmin going to do mine. Your cutsMod #30 for me today. I trimmed a bit more off each side of that ridiculously huge surfboard of an engine cover and gave it a little paint. I’m very pleased with the results.
I gotta tell you, that looks crossed or probably not enough threads. I'd go to the Ford dealer and get the nuts they use, those you're using do not look very supportive.Thanks. Its coming off tomorrow, I'll pop a washer underneath to fill the small gap on the inner coloured ones, due to the extra brace.
I'll then use two washers on top so that it doesn't dig in when I tighten it up. That should hopefully then torque down properly without it going on and on.
Not sure what you are fastening, but those nuts with a rounded crown appear to be non-standard. Is there blue epoxy coating on some of the threads? This is a common joint thread locking feature. Or, do you see white plastic around the top of the nut? This also is another way to prevent the joint from becoming loose. Let me know as I am a fastener engineer from Ford. These concepts are used when only a shallow height nut is necessary, because over torque-ing will break the nut, not the bolt or stud which is the desired failure mode. You need to know the torque spec. for correct installation.I gotta tell you, that looks crossed or probably not enough threads. I'd go to the Ford dealer and get the nuts they use, those you're using do not look very supportive.
Richard
You sure that wasn't a sink hole?I just finished ceramic coating the new wheels. Taking them and the Nittos to get mounted tomorrow.
More important I just filed a claim with USAA about the fucking pot hole I hit in AR a few months ago. I thought I could just replace the broken bits on my dime but this is way too concerning to ignore anymore despite my shop getting the realignment being back in spec.
I have full coverage with a $500 deductible. This will be the first report ever with them. Fingers crossed it will be fixed without post problems.