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What did you do to your S550 Mustang today?!

Bobn57

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Dude. This is more of an accomplishment than you give yourself credit for.
I've moved from an Accord to a Bullitt (and then wife's F150). The buttons programming on the Fords is a PITA compared to other "homelink" systems. Or I'm just an idiot. Probably both.

Hey Richard,
Don't beat yourself up...the instructions in the Ford owners manual suck!:crackup:
I'm an engineer and must have read it a dozen times and it still didn't work so I shelved it for a week. :cwl: Decided to try a different approach and looked up my garage door model to see what they had as an instruction. Sure enough, Lift Master had a procedure to program......this was very simple.
I only needed steps 1 to 4 below and it worked. I didn't even need to hit the learn button on the Lift master unit. You may want to see if your garage opener has similar instructions from their site.
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Bobn57

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Not clear in every one of those scenarios when you are talking about opening or closing while in the garage or out of the garage. It would make sense for a weak signal to easily open the door for exit but not for entrance with a garage door in between.

Likewise, I had LEDs bulbs in the opener. Easy to open the door from inside the garage with those lights off. Opening the door turns them on and they interfered with closing the door after exit.
:cwl: I had the same issue with LEDs a few years ago. I installed them in the power head unit and then noticed problems with the wireless transmitter. It had intermittent operation. I replaced the battery thinking it was low and still had the issue. I replaced the transmitter thinking that was bad....WRONG, same issues. Eventually I called Lift Master to troubleshoot the problem. Lift Master had a preferred list of acceptable LEDs that would work with their units and not cause interference. Once I used correct bulb...went back to incandescent....it worked.
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Bit_the_Bullitt

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:cwl: I had the same issue with LEDs a few years ago. I installed them in the power head unit and then noticed problems with the wireless transmitter. It had intermittent operation. I replaced the battery thinking it was low and still had the issue. I replaced the transmitter thinking that was bad....WRONG, same issues. Eventually I called Lift Master to troubleshoot the problem. Lift Master had a preferred list of acceptable LEDs that would work with their units and not cause interference. Once I used correct bulb...went back to incandescent....it worked.
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Thanks for the response.

Also, AFAIK, the LEDs in our headlights cannot be changed unless you change the whole headlight assembly and even then you can probably only get LED in the aftermarket.

I realize you are referring to bulbs in the garage openers that light up your garage. :) I have LEDs in mine too, so that might have to do with the signal..

My previous post was about radio reception and car LEDs, just to make sure we are clear on that.
My car key fob also kept not working from anywhere past like 20ft, but the dealer said they reset some parameters and now it works from like 200ft, which is awesome.
 

GTP

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Not clear in every one of those scenarios when you are talking about opening or closing while in the garage or out of the garage. It would make sense for a weak signal to easily open the door for exit but not for entrance with a garage door in between.

Likewise, I had LEDs bulbs in the opener. Easy to open the door from inside the garage with those lights off. Opening the door turns them on and they interfered with closing the door after exit.
I completely forgot about the metal garage door itself acting as a Faraday shield, duh.

I will also unscrew the LED bulb near the opener and see if that helps.

Our Explorer ST does not have this issue.
 

Bit_the_Bullitt

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I completely forgot about the metal garage door itself acting as a Faraday shield, duh.

I will also unscrew the LED bulb near the opener and see if that helps.

Our Explorer ST does not have this issue.
I would also recommend trying what I mentioned - add a copper wire and run it from interior antenna outside. Usually the weather-stripping is soft enough to where you can easily have a wire sticking there without much trouble. Helped a lot. I can post a pic once I get home how I have mine set up, but it's really self-explanatory.
Basically you're extending your antenna to the outside beyond the doors themselves.
 

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gadgtfreek

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Thats a good look. id move to Alabama just to have one of those plates! Dont tread on me!
I figured that wild yellow tag would go good with the green stang lol.
 

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Brian_S550

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Oh no! Yeah, I made sure right after purchasing both of my S550’s that they each have spare tires (just in case).

Installed Steeda jacking rails and Premium alloy pedals with matching dead pedal on the red convertible today.
 

sw686blue

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Oh no! Yeah, I made sure right after purchasing both of my S550’s that they each have spare tires (just in case).

Installed Steeda jacking rails and Premium alloy pedals with matching dead pedal on the red convertible today.
I tried installing the premium alloy pedals over the weekend and it was effin' crazy hard. I got the clutch pedal done after a good 45 minutes of struggling to get it on. I have the brake pedal about 75% installed.

Any hints to getting it done without bitching and yelling lol? Did you heat the rubber beforehand?
 

WoodburnGT

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Picked up some Weld Belmont Drag wheels for the track.

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Brian_S550

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I tried installing the premium alloy pedals over the weekend and it was effin' crazy hard. I got the clutch pedal done after a good 45 minutes of struggling to get it on. I have the brake pedal about 75% installed.

Any hints to getting it done without bitching and yelling lol? Did you heat the rubber beforehand?
Yes the trick is to warm up the rubber backing so it’s flexible enough to get locked in place around the brakes.
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