What did you do to your S550 Mustang today?!

1 old racer

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Topped of the Ninja knife sharp exhaust tips with something a bit safer....:crackup:

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Bolt on but the securing mechanism can be removed with a Dremel and welded on if one so chooses. Available in chrome and black. Both stainless steel base.

eBay.

Chrome: https://www.ebay.com/itm/383706848433

Black: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264854598053
I got the bare stainless and installed mine as well. I slit the top so I could slide then all the way down and spot welder them to the oem tips then cut off the bolts used to install them. Sorry for the poor photo. The car is very dirty .
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Scooter MGee

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I got the bare stainless and installed mine as well. I slit the top so I could slide then all the way down and spot welder them to the oem tips then cut off the bolts used to install them. Sorry for the poor photo. The car is very dirty .
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Looks great. I considered having them welded but with mine being black I didn't want to mess with the finish.....plus, I actually wanted then to stick out a bit more than the OE tips. Helps the rear match the added splitter on the front from the side view.
 

1 old racer

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That is why I got the SS. I didnt want to mess up the power coat. And thanks for the lead on them.
 

GT Pony

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The reason we like the Steeda spring is we can then feel the transition from useless stroke (moving pedal down to contact the hydraulic piston) to now actually applying force to said hydraulics. With the Steeda spring in place you can bounce on the first couple inches of pedal travel all day long and not move the clutch one iota. With the Ford spring, moving the pedal at all pretty much means you've activated the hydraulics.
When the hydraulics become activated should solely be dependent on the movement of the clutch pedal which moves the hydraulic cylinder piston rod. If different springs changed the way the hydraulics worked, then the bite point of the clutch would also change, but it doesn't. It's only the feel/force of the clutch pedal that changes, which makes it easier to feel and modulate the bite of the clutch through the pedal stroke. Nothing beyond that mechanically or hydraulically changes with a different spring.
 
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shogun32

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When the hydraulics become activated should solely be dependent on the movement of the clutch pedal which moves the hydraulic cylinder piston rod. If different springs changed the way the hydraulics worked, then the bite point of the clutch would also change, but it doesn't. It's only the feel/force of the clutch pedal that changes. Nothing beyond that mechanically or hydraulically changes with a different spring.
it's not so hard to understand.

Say the hydraulics require 80lb/in to move.

the Steeda spring is 30lb/in so squashing it all the way (1" travel say) doesn't do diddly to the hydraulics. All you've done is take up the slack in the pedal assembly and bottomed out the 2-piece plastic thinga-ma-jiggy. Only THEN does your foot actually start pushing on the piston at the requisite 80lb/in.

The Ford spring is 128lb/in so as soon as you exceed 80lb/in (80/128 = 0.625") worth of pedal movement you've now overcome the hydraulic piston's resistance and are moving fluid.

Clutch RELEASE point and BITE point are radically different things. Release point is at the top of the stroke and the moment you push enough fluid thru the system and the clutch plates START to slip.

BITE point is going the other way - the clutch on the floor and the plates spinning freely and you are letting off pressure till the plates start to bind/bite. There is say 1/4" to 1/2" of difference between RELEASE and BITE.
 

GT Pony

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it's not so hard to understand.

Say the hydraulics require 80lb/in to move.

the Steeda spring is 30lb/in so squashing it all the way (1" travel say) doesn't do diddly to the hydraulics. All you've done is take up the slack in the pedal assembly and bottomed out the 2-piece plastic thinga-ma-jiggy. Only THEN does your foot actually start pushing on the piston at the requisite 80lb/in.

The Ford spring is 128lb/in so as soon as you exceed 80lb/in (80/128 = 0.625") worth of pedal movement you've now overcome the hydraulic piston's resistance and are moving fluid.

Clutch RELEASE point and BITE point are radically different things. Release point is at the top of the stroke and the moment you push enough fluid thru the system and the clutch plates START to slip.

BITE point is going the other way - the clutch on the floor and the plates spinning freely and you are letting off pressure till the plates start to bind/bite. There is say 1/4" to 1/2" of difference between RELEASE and BITE.
Sorry, a different spring is not going to change the bite point or any other motion of the hydraulics and clutch mechanism. It may FEEL like it does between your foot and the pedal, but it does not change anything mechanically between the pedal and the clutch through the hydraulics.

If the push rod length to the hydraulic cylinder could be changed, then it would mechanically change the clutch actuation and clutch bite point. But replacing a clutch pedal assist spring does not do anything like that.
 

#1ford

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I got and put on my new California car cover ,we are getting a lot of rain in Michigan the last couple of days the new baby seems to like being tucked away on these inclement days
 

shogun32

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Sorry, a different spring is not going to change the bite point or any other motion of the hydraulics and clutch mechanism. It may FEEL like it does between your foot and the pedal, but it does not change anything mechanically between the pedal and the clutch through the hydraulics.
You ARE correct that the spring doesn't change what 5mm of piston movement does to the other end of the hydraulic circuit and to the clutch plate slippage. Nobody claimed anything of the sort and only you keep harping on it.

The *position* of the pedal vis-a-vis the floor is ABSOLUTELY different between Steeda/No spring vs Ford spring and where the relative knee angle is at BITE and RELEASE point. The 'spring' also changes the perceived force needed to control the movement of the hydraulic piston at the various positions within said activation range. THAT is what we're talking about.

Nobody says you have to like it. I absolutely require feeling that distinct detent between slack pedal vs hydraulic activation and the range of effort required at different 'depths' of hydraulic stroke.
 

fmc_smt

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Can we move on from the spring debate. Some like it others don't. But that doesn't mean one is right and the other wrong . If you don't like the factory clutch feel, try it with out a spring .
 

rxryanm

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Attempted to install my air suspension today. Did not make it very far, but managed to smack a couple knuckles up lol. So I ended up swapping those awful stock lugs to the FP open ended ones since I had it up on stands. Also took the 4th brake light out and swapped back to a brighter LED reverse bulb.
 

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You ARE correct that the spring doesn't change what 5mm of piston movement does to the other end of the hydraulic circuit and to the clutch plate slippage. Nobody claimed anything of the sort and only you keep harping on it.
The spring doesn't change anything mechanically or hydraulically between the pedal motion and the clutch plate motion. It's only changing the feel between your foot and the clutch pedal. If the pedal is pushed X distance, the hydraulic cylinder moves Y distance and produces Z hydraulic pressure, and the clutch plate moves XYZ distance ... regardless of what spring is installed, or if there is no spring at all. Nothing changes except the FEEL and the ability to better modulate the clutch motion and the initial bite and lock-up with your foot.

The *position* of the pedal vis-a-vis the floor is ABSOLUTELY different between Steeda/No spring vs Ford spring and where the relative knee angle is at BITE and RELEASE point.
Now it sounds like you're back to claiming it changes the relationship between how the pedal moves and how the clutch operates - as in X distance of pedal movement changes the Y distance the clutch plate moves - it really doesn't. You think it does, because the required foot pressure and modulation ability feels different. But nothing is actually changing between the mechanical motion of the pedal through the hydraulics to make the clutch operate.

The 'spring' also changes the perceived force needed to control the movement of the hydraulic piston at the various positions within said activation range. THAT is what we're talking about.
Yes, and that's what I've said all along. It changes the feel/perception and control/modulation ability with the foot on the pedal. Anything beyond the pedal has not changed mechanically or hydraulically. It's the same exact motions and same exact hydraulic pressure involved.

Anyway, you can believe what you want, but the fact is the spring only changes the foot feel/pressure required, and the modulation sensitivity of your foot on the pedal throughout the pedal stroke ... not any of the mechanical or hydraulic functionality. Thread OT discussion over with me - rant over. 😁
 
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Bulutt

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This is what Steeda's site cites for that product:
"Many new Mustang owners have found that taking out the stock OE spring will give you somewhat similar results, but realistically the clutch becomes far too heavy especially if your Mustang is daily driven. Most owners fail to realize the prolonged effects of simply taking out your factory OE spring and not replacing it with another spring. By negating your factory clutch assist spring you will notice chatter/NVH from your clutch pedal. Your clutch pedal will never fully return to stock position without any assist spring, and over time your slave cylinder may begin leaking due to constant pressure on its seals from the clutch pedal not returning to the stock position."

That sounds like they're saying the cylinder and parts are not made to withstand lack of the spring. Maybe cars are build with less margin for error, I don't know.
What they're saying makes sense though - if the pedal never returns, it's like you're always feathering your clutch for a long time or resting your foot on the clutch while driving, each of which is a known "no-no."



That's pretty sweet, especially when my experience should be similar as we both have a Bullitt (although I think that doesn't matter).
Did you just put in the spring, were you able to reused to clips that hold it on?
My mechanic installed the spring. Out with the old, in with the new. 2 minutes all done.
 
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