What did you do to your S550 Mustang today?!

[acemastr]

We screwed up yesterday trying to replace the rear rotors and brake pads. We couldn't compress the caliper enough to make the new brake pads fit. I was using this tool to compress but it wouldn't go in and also there was fluid leaking from piston seals. Any ideas on how to fix it or do i need a new caliper?

Jesus, who painted the caliper?! I bet the paint is going into the seal and causing it to leak past.

I used the same tool the other week, not sure how you're not able to push the piston back in, just place the plate on the tool on the inside of the caliper and twist the knob.

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[WD Pro]

We screwed up yesterday trying to replace the rear rotors and brake pads. We couldn't compress the caliper enough to make the new brake pads fit. I was using this tool to compress but it wouldn't go in and also there was fluid leaking from piston seals. Any ideas on how to fix it or do i need a new caliper?

I don’t know mustangs, but I’ve had similar types of callipers on other cars.

The piston needs winding back in whist pressure is applied. I’ve use a two pin push bike bottom bracket spanner to get some purchase in the shapes on the piston face - c clip pliers would also work.

I can’t comment on your leakage, but it doesn’t sound good. Trying to be positive, has the piston been pushed out too far and fluid has breached the seal ?

Hope you get it sorted

WD

 

[krishelnino]

Jesus, who painted the caliper?! I bet the paint is going into the seal and causing it to leak past.

I used the same tool the other week, not sure how you're not able to push the piston back in, just place the plate on the tool on the inside of the caliper and twist the knob.

A shop painted it a year and half ago. I don't paint has gotten into the seal.

I don’t know mustangs, but I’ve had similar types of callipers on other cars.

The piston needs winding back in whist pressure is applied. I’ve use a two pin push bike bottom bracket spanner to gett some purchase in the shape on the piston face - c clip pliers would also work.

I can’t comment on your leakage, but it doesn’t sound good. Trying to be positive, has the piston been pushed out too far and fluid has breached the seal ?

Hope you get it sorted

WD

I just saw the LMR video and i think we screwed up pretty bad. Turns out there's a special tool to both turn and compress it. We probably squeezed the piston too hard and ruined it. I know it's dumb we pressed the brake once during this causing the piston to be pushed out too far and hence the fluid leak. I'll order a new set of calipers

 

[WD Pro]

So long as the seals haven’t been damaged and you don’t drag crap back into them they ‘should’ be OK with some careful reassembly.

Press a bit (with the tool you have) turn a bit with the c clip pliers (keep repeating) and you can compress them OK. I don’t think you would have damaged anything - I think that mechanism is designed to compensate for brake pad wear and handbrake adjustment, I should imagine it’s pretty tough (at least as tough as the thread on the tool you have been applying pressure with).

WD

 

[Ceayay]

Installed a Krona Performance cat back exhaust so it no longer sounds like a prius

 

[rum_punch_ruby]

new NGK 6510 spark plugs and edelbrock CAI

 

[irmoviper]

Installed FP half shafts! Getting ready for that transbrake launch! Virus go away, so the local track can open!

 

[Stage_3]

Waved at it in the garage.

 

[DeCo]

installed an X-Force Varex exhaust and Steeda jacking rails

 

[Stone pony]

Looks good. Do you have any more pictures or info?

Took a general measurement. 32 side to side x 22 in the center front to back apx 20 on the sides frt to back overall. Card board template to fit. Then fit some thin cabinet veneer from the template. Used some thin metal to created the bend of the two pieces. Ordered some of the trunk liner material, black, maybe grey would have been the better match. Spray adhesive the material to the veneer. I remover the back seat and lifted the package tray and used a few screws to attach to the front lip of pack tray metal structure behind the seat back. I used velcro and tucked the back part under the trunk seal. Then just tucked the side in the existing trunk trim. I also added some pillow stuffing, not sure if it will help speaker operation or not. I'm old and deaf, lol. That wasn't the important part for me.

 

[1 old racer]

We screwed up yesterday trying to replace the rear rotors and brake pads. We couldn't compress the caliper enough to make the new brake pads fit. I was using this tool to compress but it wouldn't go in and also there was fluid leaking from piston seals. Any ideas on how to fix it or do i need a new caliper?

You have to "screw in" the piston. you must twist the piston in at the same time compress on the piston so that it will compress.

 

[frank s]

installed an X-Force Varex exhaust and Steeda jacking rails

Looks as if X-Force Varex gets the award for nice-looking stuff you can't see without crawling.[/QUOTE]

 

[frank s]

Didn't like the unfinished look under the package tray in the trunk. So I fixed it.

Very nice work. That's one of the places you could go without seeing for the life of the car. I use a couple of those ovalish holes as anchors for a bungee cord. A partially-dismantled Carabiner Hook makes for a handy hanging stabilizer for those horrible one-use plastic shopping bags the stores and restaurants force on you in their attempts to destroy the world.

 

[GMONSTAH]

Washed and waxed. First time in a long time we’re gonna get a few days with no rain!

 

[GMONSTAH]

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