That's a lot of dang camber for street driving. You're lucky your tires lasted this long.They’re nitto g2 555s 305/35r19 on a 19x11 wheel. They’re directional so they’ve never been rotated and they’re down to the wear bars now after 16 months.
I have -2.7° of camber bc I don’t have camber arms and I’m lowered. Is it bc lack of rotation and my alignment ? Do I need to worry it might be something else?
I have a staggered setup with directional nittos. They can’t be rotated.If you don't fix the alignment it will happen again..Can rotate them often and help.
I don’t know how to change it and neither does my alignment guy I guess. He said everytime he tries to adjust it it goes back to what it was which is -2 something. I’ve only ran into one shop here in AZ that will align lowered cars. So it’s a pain in the ass.You are running a lot of rear camber. I'd drop it to -1.75. I never liked the feel of 2 or more negative rear camber.
I did alignments many years ago and Toe end can also cause that. If I remember it was when they were toed out too farI don’t know how to change it and neither does my alignment guy I guess. He said everytime he tries to adjust it it goes back to what it was which is -2 something. I’ve only ran into one shop here in AZ that will align lowered cars. So it’s a pain in the ass.
He is lazy. It is pretty easy to set the rear camber. There is a bolt on the inside of the camber arm, part of the arm closest to the center of the car. You loosen the bolt grab a 4 or 5 foot pry bar and slide the arm to where you want it then tighten the bolt.I don’t know how to change it and neither does my alignment guy I guess.
Something I should give a try at home? I’d rather do that than pay for an alignment currently. I don’t think toe is the problem since these tires are pretty much close to being done and they just started cupping. The passenger side camber is worse than the driver side and the passenger side has worse cupping.He is lazy. It is pretty easy to set the rear camber. There is a bolt on the inside of the camber arm, part of the arm closest to the center of the car. You loosen the bolt grab a 4 or 5 foot pry bar and slide the arm to where you want it then tighten the bolt.
Find a performance shop. I know there are some.
I think factory "green" spec is up to -2.5 or something ridiculous for a street car. Gives a funny feeling when turning. -1.5 to -1.75 is a great area to be for the street. Gives plenty of corner grip and keeps forward grip.
Factory adjustment procedure.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/attachments/2016-mustang-rear-camber-adjustment-pdf.98794/
I’m not sure if that’s really the problem though. I think it’s the too much negative camber. The passenger side is a lot worse and the passenger side is also tucked in far more than the driver side. Took both wheels off yesterday. I am probably due for an alignment though.I did alignments many years ago and Toe end can also cause that. If I remember it was when they were toed out too far
Does the arm adjust in and outwards? Or does it slide back and forth?He is lazy. It is pretty easy to set the rear camber. There is a bolt on the inside of the camber arm, part of the arm closest to the center of the car. You loosen the bolt grab a 4 or 5 foot pry bar and slide the arm to where you want it then tighten the bolt.
Find a performance shop. I know there are some.
I think factory "green" spec is up to -2.5 or something ridiculous for a street car. Gives a funny feeling when turning. -1.5 to -1.75 is a great area to be for the street. Gives plenty of corner grip and keeps forward grip.
Factory adjustment procedure.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/attachments/2016-mustang-rear-camber-adjustment-pdf.98794/
The problem is when you move the camber you also change the toe.Something I should give a try at home?
Look at the PDF I posted. You want to move the purple bolt toward the shock.Does the arm adjust in and outwards?