What brand of oil does everyone use? Motorcraft or nothin?

[Tomster]

This is for "advanced users" those of us who modify our cars. Not applicable to you stock peasants.

shall I dig up the spec in the owners manual?

Lets see, use whatever oil I want and be on the hook for a 30K engine or use the specified oil and let ford pay that bill. Hmm. Let me think about that.

You are a hoot.

Usually when people run out of intelligent things to say, they resort to your actions.

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[Jmeo]

I only come in here for the entertainment because the forums are boring as hell lately.……… Come on man, somebody start a new thread worth participating in

 

[Tomster]

I only come in here for the entertainment because the forums are boring as hell lately.……… Come on man, somebody start a new thread worth participating in

I tried. ADMs were discussed, wrenches, extension cords......

What would you like to talk about?

 

[Andy13186]

I tried. ADMs were discussed, wrenches, extension cords......

What would you like to talk about?

Make a new thread brother, this is about oil

 

[Classic Lover]

This thread.

 

[DopamineQuest]

To be completely honest I mix 5 qts 0w40 amsoil signature series with 5 Qts 5w50 amsoil signature series in the winter and also add 2 bottles of ceratec. I would probably do and recommend the same in a gt500 depending on the driving habits and climate.

No ceratec is like one of the best parts from my old 5.0. No need in the 500's, there's no ticks or rattles

 

[Tomster]

Make a new thread brother, this is about oil

I'm not your brother.

 

[Andy13186]

I'm not your brother.

Ok guy

 

[Angrey]

Never discuss motor oil, religion or politics online. In that order.

The Amsoil guys crack me up. There's absolutely NOTHING superior about Amsoil (or it's blah run of the mill OA printouts). Amsoil is right in line with every OTHER motor oil designed for TYPICAL consumer use. Motorcraft 5w-50 cuts to basically a 40 weight within the first few hours of use. SO DOES AMSOIL 5w50. These oils are also designed from the onset with MANY tradeoffs such as fuel economy, habitual financial relationships (such as existing procurement contracts and brand relationships), concerns for accommodating wide ranges of use conditions (from starting your car in Minnesota in January to stomping on the go pedal in Arizona in September).

Both Motorcraft and Amsoil are inferior to harsh use because they're designed FROM THE ONSET for cars that have catalytic converters, need to comply with EPA concerns and guidelines and are trying to simultaneously perform for a wide range of conditions.

Per my previous post. If you want to keep your warranty (yes, running a non-approved lubricant for a $30k motor will void the warranty if it takes a shit) then run what Ford recommends. It will also void your warranty if the cats take a shit, regardless of whether the oil content is germane to the issue.

The problem with these discussions is that they're largely theoretical for most people (who do not rely on the results as a matter of profit and loss or income). What an oil spec's out at brand new sitting in the bottle isn't what it settles to be shortly after use. What's useful for a race team that abuses the motor and tears it down regularly and for the person who drives the car to cars and coffee once a month and stares at it the rest of the time aren't remotely the same.

If you want to run the best oil, and you're not concerned about cost...

again.....

Pick one that has a high HTHS, has a HIGH content of ZDDP and Moly and has an acceptable NOACK. This invariably leads you to oils that start off with a base that is NOT PAO.

And like I also said. For the vast majority of people who aren't racing for a living. It also won't matter.

 

[Angrey]

The other consideration that's coming into play, and it's fairly advanced is the idea that Calcium content is now related to predisposition to engine knock. Some fairly complicated mechanical engineering studies are determining that build up of residue in the combustion chamber with high calcium content lubricants creates conditions for build up of sudden preignition and knock.

It's really interesting stuff if you guys want to look into it.

 

[Classic Lover]

I got news for you guys the Amish don’t have these problems maybe we should consider their lifestyle.

seriously though anyone here run Schaeffers oil in anything? We use it for all our stuff and it’s been awesome. They also make the best penetrating spray in the business.

 

[STAMPEDE]

Only Shell makes the best premium fuel for the GT500, right? Lol….

 

[Tomster]

Only Shell makes the best premium fuel for the GT500, right? Lol….

Oh no. Sunoco all the way, lol

 

[Andy13186]

Pick one that has a high HTHS, has a HIGH content of ZDDP and Moly and has an acceptable NOACK. This invariably leads you to oils that start off with a base that is NOT PAO.

And like I also said. For the vast majority of people who aren't racing for a living. It also won't matter.

So, what oil do you use?

 

[Angrey]

So, what oil do you use?

When I was worried about warranty, I ran Motorcraft. Now I run Redline 5w-50, but I'd also run Driven. Motul is pretty good too. But again, most of that is because I want to run the best lubricants, but as hard as I flog my car on the regular, it wouldn't matter if I was running Pennzoil or Mobil or Amsoil or Rotel or any of the typical PAO oils.

The most abuse I've ever given my car was a 651 mile trip in 7 hours and 20 minutes. I probably redlined my car a thousand times. If I was doing endurance racing or constantly doing stuff like that, I'd say Redline or Motul is crucial. PAO stock and the additives/tricks they need to get it up to INITIAL viscosity just break down to hot espresso too easily.

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